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Hot Rods Throw out bearing,trans input shaft question???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BrandonB, Aug 25, 2024.

  1. BrandonB
    Joined: Feb 24, 2006
    Posts: 3,566

    BrandonB
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from nor cal

    39 trans in an Av8 roadster. The throw bearing isn't making any noise and when going down the road and through the gears there is no problem. The problem is when I'm creeping along in traffic and am constantly using the clutch there's a sticky spot when releasing the clutch slowly and the same when I'm depressing the clutch slowly. When slowly letting out the clutch there is a sticky point where the clutch is still engaged and passed the sticky point it's released. There's isn't a smooth transition at the sticky spot. Now I'm definitely no mechanic but the throw out bearing slides on the trans input shaft, I think, now could there be a rusty spot on the input shaft where the the throw out bearing gets stuck then suddenly jumps past the sticky spot when releasing the clutch? Could it be on the input shaft and if so is there a way of lubing the input shaft without pulling the trans. It's an enclosed drive line so that would be a pain.
    I hope I'm making sense. I've greased the zerk fitting on the clutch linkage but that didn't help.
    Any ideas?
     
  2. inthweedz
    Joined: Mar 29, 2011
    Posts: 628

    inthweedz
    Member

    If there are no wear points causing the problem on the exterior operating rods/pivots etc, inside the clutch /bell housing, the T/O bearing slides on a sleve /collar at the front of the box (thru which the input shaft passes, I wouldn't think a rust spot, more like a wear on the collar (I have seen badly worn collars on OT vehicles when working on them, usually caused by the operating arc of the release arm) or possibly the fork that operates the bearing has worn a groove where it pushes the T/O bearing causing it to stick at a certain point of operation, Either way, if it's inside the clutch area, you will need to pull the box.
     
  3. BrandonB
    Joined: Feb 24, 2006
    Posts: 3,566

    BrandonB
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from nor cal

    Thank you. The worn groove possibilty makes sense.
     
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,561

    alchemy
    Member

    Take the little inspection cover off the top of the trans and watch what happens as you depress the clutch pedal. Might give you a clue what’s happening.
     
    alanp561 and jaracer like this.
  5. BrandonB
    Joined: Feb 24, 2006
    Posts: 3,566

    BrandonB
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from nor cal

    Thanks. That will be next.
     
  6. BrandonB
    Joined: Feb 24, 2006
    Posts: 3,566

    BrandonB
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from nor cal

    Turned out the clutch fork was tweaked and was binding on the input shaft. When the clutch pedal was depressed and released really slow you could feel it binding. When depressing quickly and average shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd you couldn't feel it. Only when letting out slowly in 1st gear it was really noticeable.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2024
    leon bee and seb fontana like this.
  7. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,837

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's one you don't expect on a 39 clutch fork.

    Worn out bushings on the clutch shaft?
     
  8. Mac VP
    Joined: May 13, 2014
    Posts: 508

    Mac VP
    Member

    The early Ford (1935-48) clutch release fork is a forged steel part. It can be bent but it takes some effort to do so. We’ve seen the fork tips bent….not front to rear but side to side. I think it tends to happen when someone is driving the shaft out of the fork on a previous rebuild. The tips of the fork should fit to the “ears” of the carrier hub on the release bearing without binding. Likewise they should nestle into the notches on the front bearing retainer easily. If not, the fork should be removed and corrected if possible, or replaced.
     

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