Technical Tie rod clearance on a 27 T build?

Sure, taper it half way thru from the bottom. Pretty common mod for square-back spindles.

 

Thanks
I thought I could but figured I'd ask those who have been there.

I'm not a expert on early ford stuff and what's normal to do. More a race car guy .

Wonder what the odds are some speedway 27 kit car i buy at the Jefferson Swap meet 25 years ago has a set of spindles and one being a RH drive that a few months ago never even new existed or is special.
Never occurred to me that the RH spindel was anything special or differant .

Next question is there a source for tie rod tubing that can be directly threaded for the Ford tie rod ends or am I better just buying them pre cut from speed way ?
I have the LH/ RH taps and all that and I have at least 6 to do eventually with three projects.

Wonder if it's a direct thread size somewhere?

Time to get a drag link and tie rod in this after all these years

 

Heat and bend the arms so the tie rod goes under the hairpins.

 

I usually pick up some 7/8 od 5/32 wall DOM tube from a local steel dist.

Shapiro metals on ebay isn't too bad either. Stock Car steel may be another source.

But I would price out Speedway's tubes also.

I also save every early Ford and F series truck tie rod from front ends I take apart;, easy to shorten and tap the R/H threaded side for tie rods and drag links. Look better too with clamps vs jam nuts.

Mostly use the new stuff when making ladder bars and front hairpins.

The 7/8 works for 5/8 directly and for 11/16 after drilling. I made a gizmo for starting the tap straight; but now use my kid's lathe and "power tap" the tubes. Lot easier on the arms.

 

I thought about It a lot.

With the Rh drive spindel it will sit just above the hair pin and have about 3" or more of clearance to the frame. The axle will contact the spring perch well before the tie rod will hit anything .
If I had to use a normal spindel or aftermarket arm with out the second hole I'd definitely go under .

If I don't have to bend then it's one less thing to deal with .

 

Hey thanks for sharing . So just drill the 7/8" tube??
I have a lathe so originaly I was going to bore the ID . I'm way over to thinking some of this .
I like the jig set up for taping .

The Speedway plain tie rod is not that bad and honestly it's trying to do every little thing to save $5 is why it's been sitting in the drive way for over $20 years .
If I get to a rolling chassis with all the mounts it might actually get done.
The 11-1 comp 327 SBC is looking more and more attractive because it's built and will run . So is the poweglide I have laying here .
( I do really want a stick in it )



I'm actually considering a Chrome drag link and tie rod now since I think the body and frame and suspension will all be gloss black sprinkling in a few Chrome parts for a extra $100 or so might really help keeping it from looking like such a low buck budget build .
Something to break it up a bit .

I realized tonight the new radiator got in a big pile of parts I bought years back is a Walker Model T radiator set up for a SBC .
Almost forgot I had it .
So I guess the chopped aluminum 32 Radiator and grill is out for now so model T shell it is . That $500 can go into other stuff .
Like a windshield.
Found I had some cast steel windshield posts with Chrome.
Think there old MR roadster.
Thinking I may cut them down and run them .

 

Congrats on the solution to the tie rod clearance issue. Found a hot rod for sale on the market. Same location of tie rod.

 

Chuck a drill bit in the tailstock of your lathe; lot easier than boring the ID. Same thing with the tap, the tailstock will hold it straight with no need for the guide like I used for hand tapping (which hard to start straight since Speedway's affordable 11/16 taps are plug taps instead of taper taps).