TIG Question: Sharpening Tungsten?

And grinding on the sides of a wheel is an unsafe practice at best. Most grinding wheels are not designed for that.

 

I have a small HF bench grinder mounted on top of my tig machine.
I use mostly the sides because I have two stones, 4 sides and two grits, 6 sides actually but rarely uses the fronts.

Stone 1- Side 1, used to remove contaminant, that side couldn't be considered dedicated because it has mostly what ever was stuck to the end of the tungsten.
Side 2, used to further remove contaminant from side 1 yet still could not be considered dedicated.

Stone 2, side 1, (3 of 4) fine grit, used to get any remaining and shape, mostly contaminant free except what it pulled off the other stone. Last side, touch for final polish. Pretty nice and clean. Dedicated as I can get but still not 100% pure in reality.

Took longer to type that than to surface both sided of one electrode.

I hate breaking 1/2" off. But that's the only way on to remain pure on a dedicated wheel that's only ever seen pure tungsten.

 

I use a 1" belt sander with a 220 grit belt. For the first 25 years I just held them by hand. I use a cordless drill to spin them now. I think the tungsten sharpeners fall into the "gadjet" category, at least for my budget.

 

I know this is an old thread but, I am putting together required tools for a new tig set up. Everything I have read recently recommends a bench or belt sander for tungsten sharpening. I am curious of the cost difference between a 300 dollar dedicated grinder vs. Replacement cost of wheels. How much will someone actually save with the bench or belt sander?

 

Belt sanders work well. I like a bench grinder with a tool wheel, and some finesse. You don't always want a sharp tungsten by the way, for aluminum I prefer a ball on the end of mine, I use a piece of copper and hold it straight over the top of it with the loud peddle pushed to form a ball on the end.

 

I grab whatever grinder with a paper disc or cut off wheel happens to be close and sharpen to a point then get on with welding. I make sure to sharpen lengthwise.

 

I'm not a pro by any means but I invested in a hand held tool made by Tech South to sharpen my Tungsten. It looks like a Dremel tool with a Diamond disk grinder on it. It puts a perfect point then you can stick the Tungsten in a hole on top and lightly flatten the point. I think I paid around $250 for it online and to me the improvement in my welds were worth it. By the way, I have started using 2% Lanthanated electrodes to weld all metals and it works great.

 

For the last 30 years the man that tig's my ch***is has used the belt sander with some water to cool after sharpening?

 

Lots of good advice but the trick is clean metal vigorously prior to welding and even a marginal tip we give you a good weld. I use a disc grinder and clean up with 150 sand paper.

 

I never tried the copper to ball the tungsten, I just switch the selector to DC reverse, and using the steel bench top, peddle it lightly until it is the shape I prefer.

 

Marty try the copper, you'll like it both when you use it and later when you are welding. maybe I am biased because that was just the way that I learned.

 

You guys need to try the new technology With the new AC Inverter power sources you can weld aluminum with a sharpened to a point Ceriated tungsten.
No need to do the old ball the Zirconiated tungsten thing.
The new machines offer a way better oxide cleaning action and actually make aluminum Tig welding almost easy
I just ( days ago) bought myself a new Miller Diversion 180 Tig machine.
I previously had a Diversion 165 and they are both great machines.

I also have a Piranha tungsten grinder like I posted previously.
Nothing like pro equipment

 

When I was at Harbor Freight buying Bungee cords, and chip brushes, I saw a tiny bench grinder, uses a 3 in. wheel. I picked that up and have been using it for my tungstens...it's too small for anyone else to use it and contaminate it!

 

Bottom line, just put a point on it it will work fine. Unless you are welding pipe in a nuke sub it's not going to matter.

 

Bottom line For who? Certainly not me. As a pro I like to have a nice clean and precision ground tip on my tungsten regardless of what I am welding on.
That's what I get from the diamond wheel.
That way I can have a controllable arc that is up to my standards.

 

Just Gotta disagree there

 

Something no one has mentioned is that the Thoriated tungsten (red band) commonly used for steel should NEVER be ground without a respirator. Look up Thorium and you will find out that it is a radioactive element and the dust is very dangerous. A separate grinding wheel should be used and only used for sharpening of these tungstens. Also you should have some sort of vacuum or collection bag for the dust. Do not exhaust it to the atmosphere where the dust can be inhaled.

 

I have been grinding tungsten for over 30 years and never heard of the danger involved. I guess you learn something new ever day on the HAMB. Thanks Woodie Wagon 46

 

As do I.

Especially as a former welder of nuke subs.

 

I hope OSHA is not a HAMB member!

 

I use a sanding belt then I use a nylon wheel. It brings the tungsten to a mirror finish. Great for real precision welds like the real small tool and die work I do. Starts real good. Lately I have been using the 2% ceriated.