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TIG tungsten size

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sgtlethargic, Feb 5, 2008.

  1. Maybe with some quick tips I can improve a bit. Are there rules of thumb for the tungsten diameter as a function of the material diameter? For example, I'm welding 1/8" wall steel. Should I use a 3/32" tungsten, an 1/8", or even bigger (how big do they get?)? Will a larger diameter tungsten spread the heat better, allowing for less pedal to get the same or better penetration, with less risk of blow-through?

    Okay, what about filler rod size? If I use an 1/8", the rod seems to stick more.

    Any different for aluminum?

    Oh, the bottle's getting low. How low will they typically go before you lose flow?

    Thanks,
    Kurt
     
  2. Chris Casny
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,874

    Chris Casny
    Member

    On steel I mainly use 3/32" tungsten, filler rod depending on what I'm doing, mainly 1/16". For 1/8" steel use 1/8" filler rod.
     
  3. REJ
    Joined: Mar 4, 2004
    Posts: 1,612

    REJ
    Member
    from FLA

    Agreed with what Dreadman says. I never use any larger than a 3/32" tungsten and I like the smaller wire to weld with.
    The only difference on aluminum is that you want a "ball" on the end of the tungsten, instead of it being sharp.
     
  4. gavin
    Joined: Dec 6, 2005
    Posts: 94

    gavin
    Member
    from Sonoma

    3/32" tungsten, ground to a sharp point on a tungsten only grinding wheel with grind going parallel with the rod. The point lenght should be 2.5 times the size of the rod. If the rod is sticking then it's too big of a rod or not enough heat. I like a little more heat and use a bigger rod, so I don't have to feed it as quickly. As for bottle gas, I run it out completely. I don't bring the bottle in until I see my tungsten crackle.
     
  5. Chris Casny
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,874

    Chris Casny
    Member

    Also for aluminum, the ball forms itselfs within seconds, some people prefer to "make" a ball beforehand, but I don't, and it's not really nessesary.
    ≈Aluminum, GREEN tungsten (Pure)
    ≈Steel, Red tungsten (2% Thoriated)
    ≈Stainless, (I use the red tungsten also) sue me, it works.
     
  6. Sinner
    Joined: Nov 5, 2001
    Posts: 191

    Sinner
    Member

    I try to use a tungsten the same thickness as the stock being welded.
     
  7. gavin
    Joined: Dec 6, 2005
    Posts: 94

    gavin
    Member
    from Sonoma

    You can also get that slide chart from Lincoln which will give you all this info based on the material and thickness you are welding. They are a few bucks and really helped me when I was learning to weld.
     
  8. Bort62
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 594

    Bort62
    BANNED

    1 amp per thousanth of tungsten. That will get you started. If it's melting, step up. If your arc isn't stable, move down.

    I use 3/32" most often for car sized stuff.
     
  9. Hey Bort,
    Have you shown pictures of your Ranchero? It sounds like it's gotta turbo on the 200.

    Thanks,
    Kurt
     
  10. Bort62
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 594

    Bort62
    BANNED


    I havent, I have been toying with the idea but I'm not sure if it really fits in here.

    It's got some non traditional aspects :)
     
  11. Aspects, smaspects- post it on one of the ongoing Falcon threads.
     
  12. 392_hemi
    Joined: Jun 16, 2004
    Posts: 1,737

    392_hemi
    Member

    On an inverter machine, you use a point, not a ball for aluminum. And tungsten s/b be thoriated or cerriated (red or orange stripe), not pure (green stripe).
     
  13. leon renaud
    Joined: Nov 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,937

    leon renaud
    Member
    from N.E. Ct.

    Check your PMs and I'd sure like to see pics of that Engine!I'm just starting to mess with with an off topic engine to hide under the hood of my 27T RPU Love Falcon Rancheros bye the way!
     
  14. five-duece-chevy
    Joined: Jan 2, 2006
    Posts: 213

    five-duece-chevy
    Member
    from PA

    Honestly, Tungsten diameter depends on personal preference. Obviously, the more amps you run, the thicker the diameter should be to avoid overheating the tungsten. I find that 1/16th inch is usually only good for sheet metal lighter than 14 gauge. 3/32 Is a great size to use for anything up to 300 amps, which should have you covered for any garage projects you run into.

    As for the sharp of the tungsten, my rule of thumb is that the bevel should be as long as 1 1/2 times the diameter of the tungsten. And I highly recommend using 2% Thoriated tungsten on steel and stainless because it holds it's sharp longer than pure tungsten. That being said, I recommend pure tungsten for aluminum, since that ball end comes in handy when welding with AC, as the 2% tends to "spit" after its balled up. As far as filler wire size, I use a rod that is roughly 60% of the size I want the weld face to be, and when welding aluminum, I never use anything smaller than 3/32 because 1/16th tends to be difficult to get into the puddle before it balls up. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it 's easier to get a nice looking weld when you have that one less thing to keep an eye on. :)

    And just for some backround on the validity of this info, I've been a welder/fabricator using primarily the GTAW (TIG) process for over 14 years, and teach the GTAW course at my local community college. Just got out of class, matter of fact!
     
  15. HHRdave
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,068

    HHRdave
    BANNED
    from So Cal

    I'm suprised nobody mention the size of the ceramic cup that should be used for the gas atmosphere.

    If I'm using smaller tungsten or smaller wire I like to use a smalleer dia. cup size. I usually use the medium ? sized one.
     
  16. 56pu
    Joined: Jul 25, 2007
    Posts: 50

    56pu
    Member
    from Sarver,PA

    I use 3/32 for almost everything and just change my filler wire size, and as for cup it all depends on where Im welding, if its windy I use a gas lense, if not I just use a medium cup...And I always grind my tungsten to a point...Alot depends on how you prep you meterial i.e. beveled edge..
     
  17. five-duece-chevy
    Joined: Jan 2, 2006
    Posts: 213

    five-duece-chevy
    Member
    from PA

    Eh, I just use the largest cup that will still allow me access to the joint with good visibility. The larger the cup, the better the coverage.
     

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