I'm running a muncie 4 speed in my T. mild 388 sbc stroker. I've been using a B&B 3 finger 10.4 because the theory yrs. ago was the diaphram clutches would stick down at hi RPM . I don't have a bunch of money to throw at a new clutch , so I need some recommendations for what to replace with. dave
I have had great luck with a Centerforce dual friction. Kind of grabby when its cold but works great once it warms up a little bit. The only thing is there's no real slipping to the dual friction clutch its either engaged or it's not. I have put probably 20 thousand kilometers on my O/T 3600 lb street/strip car with the centerforce dual friction clutch and I would put another one in a vehicle with no hesitation. Plus the higher you wind the engine be tighter the clutch grabs.
I'll second the Centerforce. Ran one in my 308" 4-speed '64 Comet. Lighter pedal effort than some others, clean release. A bit harder to slip, but you'll get used to that.
I've been using a Center Force for the last 20 years with no problems, my car probably weighs twice what yours does at 3900 pounds. Joe
The diaphragm style pressure plate is ideal for street driving, it does not have centrifugal clutching action at higher rpm, it is static spring pressure only. The Borg and Beck one you were using is the one that grabs harder at higher engine speeds. Heres a break down of the different styles and how they operate, pick which suits your needs. https://www.ramclutches.com/clutchuniversity2.html
Thank you , centerforce is too spendy for me , I've heard/read good things about LUK. still undecided whether B&B or dia. style ..anyone else ?? dave
I'm using an 11" Zoom behind my 355. Diaphragm, which I like for the street and a flog here and there. You probably should stick with the B & B style, but look at what Zoom has to offer.
Some of the street/strip centerforce diaphram pressure plates have extra centrifical weights added to the diaphram fingers to make the clutch grab harder at higher rpms. Best of both worlds.
Early diaphragm clutches did have a nasty trick of "sucking the pedal to the floor", and adjusting the linkage for more than necessary release travel made it worse. The "bent finger" diaphragms of today aren't a problem if you adjust clutch release mechanism so that the clutch is released just as the pedal reaches the floor. Just enough release to prevent gear grinding when engaging reverse from neutral.
If you have a local clutch rebuilder, that would be the best value. You know what you have works so there would be no surprises with having it rebuilt. Locally, it is about half the price of buying a rebuilt clutch at a parts store. And they can refinish your flywheel while you are there.
No clutch return = poor bell housing to engine block alignment no matter what clutch/ PP you have in it
So, the question is, how hard are you abusing your clutch these days? Are you really still doing high rpm clutch dumps and shifts? I'm using an over the counter replacement NAPA diaphragm clutch in my ride without any issues, but I'm probably not doing anything with the clutch at more then 3,000 rpm these days. In my younger days, I'd get about 2-3 months from the best clutch stuff I could buy. The clutch currently in my car is nearly 4 years old. Are you driving as hard as you used to? If so, stick with the good stuff, if not, stepping back probably won't hurt. Gene
There are some things I don't skimp on; good brakes, good gas, good clutch and good Bourbon. McLeod is dependable and not horribly expensive.
While the car only sees 3K miles a year , I built it to GO so 6K powershifts do occur occasionally....not often , especially when the wife's along ..LOL dave
I've been a tight-ass..ah ,frugal person , out of necessity , my whole life & I can absolutely attest to this fact ..There is no correlation between the cost & the quality ! dave
With 6K powershifts, a clutch is not where I would want to cut corners. Go with what you know works. Gene
how is your pedal ratio? light car and your not racing for money, a little slip won't be noticed but a hard to push pedal will every time you drive it. just a thought.
No chatter when released? Just put a new clutch disc and throw-out bearing in it. At 3k a year it will last a long time.
I would go with a diaphragm... Max disc clearence [if you can get at it to measure] should be .060..1" of free play then build a stop for max travel if you have more than the .060..
Nothing wrong with tight-waddism. Provided you are still agile enough, and your T-Bucket is accessible enough, remove the Muncie and bellhousing, the pressure plate and disc (put witness marks on the clutch cover and flywheel). Inspect for small oil leaks from rear of engine. Check for pressure plate warp, flatness and deep grooving. Same with flywheel friction surface. Check pilot bearing and release bearing. If friction surfaces pass these tests, use Brake-Kleen on these surfaces, then scuff the glazed surfaces with 120 or 220 grit abrasive with a swirl pattern. Then, DO NOT TOUCH these surfaces. If it were mine, I would at least invest in a new disc. Be sure it slides freely on the Muncie splines. Wouldn't hurt to check for bellhousing radial and face runnout. Chrysler service manuals from the '60s do an excellent job of describing the process. Set pedal free play at 3/4". You are using a hydro-formed scatter-proof bellhousing, right? FWIW: rebuilt clutch units = Russian Roulette when shifting at 6 grand!
I have nothing more to add other than an editorial comment. I used to have a '66 Nova with a nasty high revving 283 in it, and when I first purchased it the diaphragm clutch would not engage until engine RPM's were below about 4000 RPM. The first couple of times it happened it scared me crapless. If it ever happens you'll remember it. I replaced it shortly with a B&B style that made the pedal a lot harder to depress, but it sure worked better.
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