Anyone in Austin want to have some fun this holiday weekend? I am going to chop my 30 Model A 5 window. Never done it before, have a good knowledge on what to do, but honestly, it could be really fun. If anyone wants to hang out and chop and A, let me know. They don't call it "Labor Day" for nothin!
Damn I wish you weren't 10 hours away or I'd be there. How much are you taking out? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'll help from here. Get to work! No, that's not right! Put that beer down! Another inch more! Hmm, sounds like my wife. Never mind, good luck.
If you weren't that far away I'd be there in a heartbeat, good luck and enjoy the transformation. Ron.
No TV style deadline work/competition from me. Any thoughts on drilling into the wood posts and adding a short dowel/locator pins before placing the top back on? I know measurements for that will be critical, but I think worth it for strengthening the wood joint.
I've seen it done with or without the dowels. They help with alignment, but really don't offer much strength. You're gonna weld it anyway. Getting ready to do mine soon, please post pics. HAMB member "just Gary" has good thread on chopping with dowels. His is a sedan, but the same idea. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
should be fun..... I will post pics. green73..... are you doing a straight cut or keeping the rear window? If you cut before I do, post pics so I know what to do (or what not to LOL).
Keeping it simple. Just a 4"cut across everything. Going to Ventura Nats Saturday, so gutting won't happen until Sunday morning. I gutted the interior and pulled the glass out last weekend, so it's down to taping up and marking the driver side (passenger side is already marked), and breaking out the cutting devices. Here is the thread on mine: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-driver-project.1011127/#post-11672492
How far is the top line from the bottom of the door hinge? I like where you are cutting and would be a good reference point for me (taping today)
I'll get a measurement before I get started. I just started taping where I thought it looked good and would offer some clearance for getting the saw under the hinge. Unfortunately the car is at my friend's house for all of this and I can't make a quick trip out to grab a measurement.
So, the tape line for the top side of the cut was 1" below the door hinge. Worked out pretty good. We used a couple of old worm drive clamps to secure the doors to the body and cut it all as one. Pics are on my thread so no mixing things up on this one.
Ok Green73.... looks awesome! Can you tell me how you prepped? Did you brace the body (where)? You said worm clamps (where)? Did you use a sawzall, cutoff wheel or handheld bandsaw? Anything else I should know? This is awesome!!!!!!!
For prep, I did a ton of searching and reading here. The interior is fully gutted and the deck lid removed. Removing the deck lid gave room to sit/stand while cutting and welding the back. We left the doors on and cut them with the top to keep the cuts even between the body and doors. I did brace the body with 1X1 behind the doors just below the "B" pillar (sorry no pictures of that). We used a sawzall, against my better judgement on the first cut to remove the top. It got away from me a bit on the right rear corner and I ended up with a 3/4" gap to fill. To do the lower cut on the A and B pillars I used a portable band saw, and those cuts were clean and simple. On cutting the A/B pillars and doors we put the worm clamp just below the cut to hold everything steady and locked in place. We only had to do 2 vertical "pie" cuts on the passenger rear to pull that corner in. I also tried using the little square***** weld clamps along the back corners, but ran out of patience with them. I also didn't go with the wooden dowels in the wood as we thought it would make for a little more PITA getting them set/aligned in both top and tub correctly. The car will have a little more filler than I anticipated, but it is what it is now. It actually went well for my first time doing anything like this and given the old steel in my case was tricky to weld without blowing holes in it. If I had it to do again, I would insist on using my portable band saw and a cutoff wheel or even a jig saw for better cutting control. But hell in the past people used hack saws, torches, circular saws, etc... so it is really a matter of personal comfort with what you have.
Awesome tips.... my biggest question to research is where to brace the cab, everything else I have covered. Great tip on the worm clamps.
Glad to help with that, and it was a tip passed to me, so happy to pass it on. We discussed removing the doors and cutting them separately, but thought leaving them on easier for alignment/fitment. We did remove the upper section of the door when that front cut was made. Also a light touch with the grinder in the window openings. I had to fix a few weld blown holes in that area and it wasn't easy or fun. Once I got the holes patched in, I used a bit older flap wheel on the grinder and way lighter touch. Luckily I think it'll come out okay after some spot filler, primer, blocking and paint.
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