Ok for those that have swapped over to a late model 302 and swapped to carb and chaged the front timing cover. i have done this swap and also installed the early water pump so the outlet is on the p***enger side. but now i have no where to mount my timing indicator due to the outlet being in the way. what have others done in this situation? i thought i could swap it to the other side, but im being told that the indicator needs to be where it was before. Jason
I dont mean to Highjack your thread but I'm wondering If I need one on my 289 also...It has a little tick sticking out that I thought was the timing indicator but with TDC on number one piston up on the compression stroke it is no where close....I am adding a pic maybe it will help both of us as somone in the know gives some info. Did you use a 289 timing cover ot a 302?
I am kind of in this same situation: the timing marks on the late model balancer are on the p***enger side. This corresponds to the later '69 (I think) and up front covers/ waterpumps which had the pump inlet moved to the driver's side. I think your solution is finding an aftermarket balancer that fit's the later model SB imbalance, but has two sets of timing marks so that it can be used with your early (pre-'69) front cover. This one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-163302/?rtype=1 Has both pulley bolt patterns, three sets of engraved timing marks and comes with all of the different spacers for the main pulley...
That Summit balancer won't have the extra marks,this one does: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/S-B-Ford-Harmonic-Balancers-and-Pulley-Spacers,1802.html this is the one I always recommend when doing a swap.
Notice how the Indicator is no where near TDC on the balancer even though I have the Number one piston all the way up on the compression stroke. Am I doing something wrong?
Here I am to save the day! click on this: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/792514-timing-pointer-67-289-a.html On the first post is a link to mustangs unlimited,click on that to get the pointer.
thanks jeff!!!! like i have told you through email, if it werent for you i woulndnt be as far with my project as i am!! thank you!
You guys should all be finding your true top dead center and remarking your dampers anyway. When you find true TDC, you can put the degree markings anywhere you can get a pointer and shoot the gun.
streetdreams, lots of people right now smacking their forheads and saying.. 'well duh, why didnt i think of that.'
ya know, i was thinking about that. why couldnt i just make my own pointer out of a small piece of sheetmetal and mark it when its at tdc? i know the pointer is cheap, but with shipping it might be just worth it to make one quick and mark it accordingly. Secondly- i have never timed an engine. i only know what i have read, but, wouldnt i want the engine timed right on with tdc? or are most engine's either a little advanced or retarded?
You can also buy a timing tape from Moroso. Set and check the balancer with the original timing tab and adjust the timing tape to match the new timing tab on the other side of the motor. Mark, what is wrong with the original tab or was it not in the box with the timing cover? You should not have to change anything.
Jason, It wasnt in the box I guess I never saw one. I figured the little tag that is in the pic with blue on it was the indicator....
Jay is right with the tape. But, to do it right and NOT have possible timing issues, small things like detonation, spark knock, blown pistons etc, true TDC is a must. Quit slapping this overseas junk on your engine without checking it. If any of you budding mechanics is interested in how, ask, and either I or one of the other old farts in this forum will be glad to esplain.
OK I didn't read all the posts but the simplest way to solve your timing on the balancer problem is buy a timing tape , clean the balancer , set on TDC on compression stroke and install the degree tape ! That's all you have to do and it's has been done many times ! Jim
Btw Mark, not sure how you determined where to put the distributor in but you need to line the balancer up around 0-10 degrees BTDC then put in the distributor and line the rotor up to no 1 plug on the power stroke.
Jason, I turned the engine over with a Breaker bar until I felt the pressure shoot out the number one plug hole and the piston is all the way up (which tells me its on the compression stroke correct?) then slipped the Dist in...I tried to get the rotor to be turned toward the number one piston but it wont go in that position it only slips all the way down if I back the rotor up a 1/4 turn counter clockwise. When its in it leaves the Indicator on the timing cover inline about 2" before the timing ticks start on the Harmonic balancer. This makes me think I'm doing something wrong.... Is there another way to make sure the piston is TDC on the compression stroke?
You need to take off the p***enger side valve cover, the first cyl closest to the radiator is number 1 cylinder. As you turn the motor over watch the valves, the exhaust will just be closing when the intake will be opening. Keep turning till the intake closes then turn it over till the timing mark comes up to about 10 BTDC. Then put in your distributor with the rotor pointing to #1 plug wire. When you are turning the motor over and the intake is opening then closing the piston is moving down in the cylinder and this is the intake stroke. About the time the valve is closing/closed the piston is beginning to travel back up on the compression stroke. When the piston is 10 degrees before getting to the top (BTDC=before top dead center) is when you want the spark plug to fire. Ten degrees is a starting point but will get you close to where you need to be. This will be the start of your ignition/power stroke.
well, i ordered the pointer that jeff put the link to. so hopefully it will come soon so i can get going on hearing my engine run!!!
Lets us know how it works out Baggs, I think mine has the timing pointer built into the timing cover at least it looks like it does. If it doesnt work the way I got it I will be looking at how you got yours to work with the aftermarket pointer. thanks