You might be over thinking the spring deal, guess I would be wondering how your lighter front end weight will work with a spring set for v8 weight. I would start with the correct width spring, then experiment with number of leaves to "bounce" right, and then on to the right shock to control ride without being overly stiff. Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Had some time between appointments and started scribbling ideas for color combos, where to have linkage and springs located. Ideas for where the masters might land. That sort of thing. I think if I do a banjo fitting off the master right into a 90 deg fitting. Or some sort of hybrid that lets me do similar , I can tuck the lines back to the firewall pretty quick. Make it nice and tight. Also tried some different air cleaners. I really want something I can put a real filter in. The edmunds I think has an actual filter inside and the no name one obviously does. It’s bigger than the edmunds at 6 ish inches diameter but if it clears everything I think it could work with a brushed finish. Sizes on most of this stuff is guesstimated at best Anyhow here some pictures to go with the rambling. thinking black engine, silver valve cover, intake and exhaust.
I think you should use sock monkey filters.... You know, one of those oval Edmunds air cleaners might look nice? Kinda mimic the valve cover?
I’d thought about the sock monkeys, is there a filter in them? Honestly I’d like a frog mouth but the filters avalible choke them out pretty bad. Might have to do a search for the oval Edmund dimensions. I think the brake masters are going to get pretty close pretty quick. I’m leaning towards hammer forming one after finding an easy to find off the shelf filter that’s the right size Now with fuel lines because Facebook and Instagram haven’t worked all day lol
I have a couple at home I can measure. I’ll send a pic. That’s not to say what you have there doesn’t look good don’t get me wrong! I was just thinking out loud?
Cool, thanks for the photo how to do figure those flow with the “air damn” around them? Looks like a filter could sit back from the wall so it would have some room/surface area to still get air in. This car will more than likely see dirt roads and I just don’t want to have the idea of that dirt going down the carb eating at the back of my mind. Because I know it’d drive me crazy. Really leaning towards taking inspiration from the edmunds stuff and hammering something into shape
I’ll look tonight but if I remember correctly there is a K&N type filter in there. Not sure about flow.
Ok today’s ramble lol. First off I found some backing plates for the rear! Some 40 ford backing plates with everything still bolted on other than the e brake arm/levers. Which shouldn’t be to terrible to find. I’d really like to have the betaken hooked up as soon as I swap them on even if it’s just a temporary set up so I can stop and steer the car from the inside when moving it around. a buddy posted them on Facebook and it’s the “missing piece” I’d been looking for. After measuring how close to carbs are to the master in real life- way closer than this rendering it turns out- I started running a tap and trying different stuff on the shelf. I have a crusty little set up from a Nash metro and I got the idea to try and mock up a cross over set up like you see on a Buick straight 8. I grabbed the top/center off a 53 ford oil bath air cleaner and sat it on for size. Too big to clear on top of the carb but not not to big visually. Plenty of room on the other side though! So here is what the stock one looks like, looks like it’s got a divot for clearance. Not a bad idea Wing nut off and center/top pulled off and flipped has a nice shape, fit a round filter inside and window the wall is the idea. Maybe some chicken wire for looks? Flipping over the bottom half you can see the spring loaded clamp to hold it to the carb and the arm to release it. Might re purpose this stuff into the new version im a sucker for these stickers might have to add it back on later So how to connect the dots? Looking at photos of when this engine was in a crate as a power supply it had a big rubber 90 deg hose clamped to the carb and the remote located filter. Seems easy enough. Add some cool clamps or maybe safety wire it on? On the passenger side I would build a strut to bolt to the side of the motor and weld to the lower half of the air filter Anyhow that’s the idea today anyhow. I like it.
You can find all sizes and bends of stainless tubing on ebay used on turbo builds. I found some 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 90 degree ones I'm going to use to attach radiator hoses to for my rad. Thought if you go over top the engine they would look good.
On a 26 T roadster pickup build here the builder cut and glued some really nice looking vacuum hoses. His technique might work for an intake tube. If the link doesn't go to the right place it starts near the middle of page 58. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/26-t-roadster-pick-up-build-thread.460009/page-58
I know what your talking about with out even clicking, haha. That threads full of goodies, good idea using that trick though! A definite possibility!
That's a pretty big air cleaner, Tim... If you want something a little smaller, I bought this air cleaner that's supposed to be a 48 Plymouth. I was gonna buy another one like it to adapt to my Pontiac dual quad setup but it's not a 48 Plymouth and I have no idea what it is. Tired to looking for a matching mate for it...want it?
Had an afternoon to mess with things so I tore into it. I’d been meaning to cut the stock column support off so I could snug up and finalize my steering box mount. Off it came and the ridge got ground down as well thays what got chopped off Checking for clearance for the pedals. Looks like I need to trim the lip of the tank on the firewall side a bit more. Also played with some ideas on how I’m going to brace the pedals I got everything centered and the box where it’s happy but this column drop is still tilted funny. The shaft won’t turn and I previously though the drop was locked but it’s possible that the colum sheath/ tube got twisted? I don’t think I’m going to use the stock lock or anything so my plan for now is drill the pin out so I can remove the steering lock and see if I can get it turning. And then twist the column itself or the drop to level out. Then I’ll make a wedge shaped “drop” to get everything to mate flat and bolt it together That’s the idea anyways
I pulled a fender to get to the steering box a little easier while messing with this all and decided to check some clearances for turn signals and my proposed upper shock mounts The stamped fender support has this little notch that’s just perfect to clear the light and the hole for the stud is pre existing. I might shave the side you can see in the last picture to echo the light shape a little more though I saw @Rand Man coupe has the upper mounts in the fender braces so I mocked that up with a 2” wide cardboard tube. At 12” end to end and 5 deg leaned in at the top it clears the light just fine. A sets of Pete and Jakes shocks suggest a ride height distance of 12.5 and it seems like 5 deg on the shocks is pretty common. Seems like it should work find. The coupe I’m referring to with it set up like this already Rex rods built, and it has no headlight bar to help bolster/ brace the two supports and it does just fine so I think I should be ok
Also did a few other smaller things. i measured the placement of my mocked up rear bumper and compared it roughly to where a stock one lands. Can’t wiggle it into stock placement with out pulling the rear floor boards so guesstimating was good enough for the day i got the rear passenger side finder and brace just barely bolted on and realized how beat up it is compared to the drivers side. @Austin kays has some parts fenders for me to see if I can scab a good one together out of it all. speaking of rough fenders how bad to you figure the fronts are under all that bondo? Looks like an entire edge was sculpted on lol. Yikes! They have no holes in them for the braces or headlight bars. Think one might have platted patches on the bottom as well. Guess I’ll find out eventually. I’ll just keep an eye out for some better fronts in the mean time Any how. One step closer Hoping to have steering functional, pedals mounted,dash filled and drilled and the sub frame patched by fall. Spend most of my little garage time On the 46 but I think I can make some orogrsss this summer
So I’m thinking this is how I’m going to brace the Mc/ firewall Some 1x1 frames the top of the lower cowl and two uprights bolt to the sides of the hanging pedal bracket sides. -green is the pedal bracket, you can see it in previous photos - red is proposed attachment bolts. Might gusset the corners but as it looks now I think the front to back braces will be covered by kick panel upholstery. Thinking I can drill and tap the sides so I can bolt the kick panels on. I will also make some sort of provisions to mount the fuse panel and wiring bits on the passenger side. Thinking I’ll add some ground lugs to the framing and possibly run a cable to the frame from one. To many wiring head aches are just a shitty ground. Also after following @Blue One rpu build I’m considering a light under the dash for those moments when I’m upside down and swearing at the car lol. I do plan on painting under the dash and cowl white to make it easier to see what’s going on but I’m thinking maybe a switchable dome light could do the trick. Switch it on when your under the dash, switch it on when you drop your keys in the dark. Dual purpose? We’ll see. I’m thinking a light normal used for a tag light or dash light could work. Don’t need a flood light.
You could always install a GM under hood retractable trouble light under there and then you could also string it out to look at the engine in the dark too when you have to Then you just wind it back up till next time
I usually go with the Chevy dry filter air cleaner (and add a paper element). I like the look and just make a bottom to fit the carb.
Those lights are handy. I have one under the hood of my '53 pickup. It provides ample light under the hood and can be moved to light a special spot. It will reach either rear wheel to help in putting on the spare tie if needed. What year did these air cleaners come on? I want two.
That are cleaner is great @1oldtimer what does it measure across? @Blue One I’ve actually thought about those for a different application but don’t think it’s what I want for this.
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