Mocked up a remote air cleaner idea. Everything I’ve tried to do with it on the carb ends up hitting the firewall master cylinders. I gotta say that’s something I didn’t think would be an issue but live and learn. Trying to decide if I want to plumb it with pipe or pre formed radiator hose. Seems like either would/could work fine. Gonna mull it over some more and look at it from the passenger side some more before moving forward but I’ve got some neat ideas how how to hold it all together
Could you go low on the driver side? I once saw a T that looked pretty stock until it was coming right at you and you could see a scoop below the radiator. I don't know what was in it but it could smoke those little T tires.
The filter will need to be “remote” with the McCulloch dude. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@Runnin shine haha yeah it’s basically where the blower needs to go so in the back of my head I’m thinking if I build it N/A with the filter in that spot that if I swap a blower in nothing should really be in the way and need moved. @Six Ball just looked at plan B and I think that I can fit a small alternator kinda where it is on my 46. Up top drivers side of the intake. Just in front of that log of the intake. Then it clears a hood in theory.
Did a little more mocking up and scribbling/thinking out loud on the air cleaner. I laid this extra bend from the headers over in path in my mind to see what I thought of it. The actual tube would larger diameter but it gets you the jist. Surprisingly it’s largely un-viewable even with both hood sides all the way up. If you were just holding a side up you wouldn’t see it at all I don’t think. I’ll paint it black and that will help as well. I think this single piece of 2.5 would be more than I need and supply all the bends. Pardon the red scribbles as it was a note to myself. the only issue I’m running into is the carb end needs to be 2 5/8 and that’s not a real common ID to find. I’m between finding an exhaust shop with a tube expander to flare the end out for me, using a copper reducer which is easily found to sleeve into the end, or the simplist. Two band clamps and a slice of a fat radiator hose. then I moved onto mounting the breather and latching it shut. I drew a bracket to more or less bolt the bottom base to an existing bracket and then went threw a few latch options in my head thought about a hood side latch but it’s to bulky my first inspiration was a wire latch like this mason jar uses. It reminds me of the wire band on brake master cylinders and some wiring junctions on the bottom of steering columns. Havnt really had a way to make that work with out it being more effort than result pop into my head yet this is what I came up with while driving to work this morning. the large trapezoid bracket on the right with the slotted hole is what is there now. I would bolt the curved bottom bracket to that which would allow for some adjustment. add two tabs to the lid, one to insert into a slot in the bracket, and one with a hole that the post goes threw. Secure it with a cotter pin and it’s a done deal. had considered a wing nut. Even found some neat looking ones with just one large “wing” but it’s so close to the filter and I’ve got fat fingers. I just imaged nicking my knuckles every time I change the filter or tear it apart. Anybow. That’s where I am with that. @Inked Monkey gave the dimension of the filter he ended up using for his RPU and they seem like a good fit for this housing I’m putting together. Roughly 2.5 tall with just under 8” OD it should be plenty of air for this carb
I really like the jar latch! You could use an old one and just Tig a new band to go around the cleaner. That would be easy to make and service!
Yeah I keep coming back to it. Doing google searches for wire latch toggle and scribbling. I wonder if you would just use small diameter solid rod?
Some old tractors used a similar latch to the jar. I thinking the N and 600 series Fords. I'll se what I can find.
Ya know... I could clip the end off the curved bracket having it end just past center. Bolt it to the bottom of the housing. then in the top of the housing make a Y or I've seen a Flat strap with a rods running down from it effectively making it a T runnit threw the bottom of it all and wing nut it. zero visible clamps. Super super simple. ^together ^apart basicaly like a normal air cleaner assembly but upside down with a tube where the carb would be
Made a quick walk threw the hardware store with a tape measure and found a flexible rubber connector/ coupler in the plumbing section that has a hose clamp on either end. The ID is right between 2 1/2 and 2 5/8 and the rubber seems thick but very flexible. For $5 I think that’s how it’ll connect the pipe to the carb. I’ll probably cover the top band with shrink wrap so it disappears and the bottom I’m leaning go towards replacing with an older style clamp and leaving it visable. didn’t take a photo for a visual note to self but shouldn’t be to hard to find again. I always walk threw hardware stores, every isle looking at shapes and sizes. Can’t do that on amazon. Can’t hold up a tape to find that the parts marked 2” don’t actually measure that either! now to figure out how to cut a 2.5 hole in the lid for the pipe to join. Not sure a hole saw that big with so many compound shapes is a good idea. Been thinking scribe a line, chain drill it and hand file the edge. I think a jig saw would get away from me with out a stable surface to run the guide on
I think a hole saw will work if you can clamp the lid securely and go slow. Slow both in tool speed and down pressure. As with many things setup may take longer than the cut.
Ya know I hadn’t really thought about it but I bet the right tin snips would make quick work of it. I see a lot of guys use them to Cut larger holes in a dash for gauges. Just drill an entry hole
How big of a hole do you need? A Malco Hole Cutter is the thing to cut holes in sheet metal. Maybe you could borrow one? If you try it with snips, use the red or green handle ones, they’re designed for cutting circles.
@Rand Man 2.5” and yes to the curved ones! Good tip, pun intended I’ll ask around my circle and see if anyone’s got Malco tool to use quick
Commercial Electricians usually have a set of hole punches that are 2 piece they bolt together and as it tightens lops a hole out for putting holes in junction boxes. Not sure if they go that big though. There is also a drill driven nibbler as an option. That's what I'm planning to cut my gauge hole in the sedan when I'm don't with my wiring. -Adam Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So I had started the holes in the firewall with a big step drill. One was off center slightly and the other, well it just didn’t want to cut anymore. Can’t blame it. anyhow I basically “chain drilled” the edge with a small round file and then worked it was some curved and straight files until it fit. I tried some abrasives in a drill but where it’s cutting sheet metal it acted more like a lath and cut my abrasives into 1970’s Christmas ornament shapes lol. Bought these files at Aldi the cheap grocery store years ago. Made in the USA they have been fantastic which surprises the heck out of me every time lol. either way progress that cost me only time
More than one way to skin a cat! If your first attempt works every time you are just not attempting much.
@Six Ball im surprised how many times the quickest most accurate way of doing something is to use a file. it seems like it would take eons to get. Anywhere but even one that doesn’t feel all that aggressive cuts threw shit pretty quick. kinda funny that running an abrasive in my drill was actually quieter than the file. That vibration from the file just echos threw the entire car
Had time today to file away the second hole. Even with the hood all the way up as high as it can go with both sides up you hardly see the brake master. with just a hood top I don’t think you’ll see either master. stuck a vice grip on the back side and a clamp to hold it up for some photos and to walk by it for a few day’s. Real quick plopped the adapter and carb on and laid the zig zagged throttle on as well. when I mocked that up the first time I had the jog in the bar to come towards the engine and down. I wanted/ want the rod to operate and horizontal as possible. Not a fan of down hill linkage. Guess we’ll see when we get there. carb top angle looks funny in these pictures but it might be the camera angle or the adapter might be tilted as it’s not bolted down or anything
Walking past the car the Z in the throttle linkage rod which was to bring it over and down and keep the motion horizontal is visually kinda distracting. Think I’m going to straighten it back out and see what we have. I think with the ball joint on the carb end that it would probably not bind any? best way to find out is to find out I guess! also need to mock up the fast idle on the other side. From what I can tell you can have three things hooked up to these carbs. A normal throttle, the choke ~ which I believe has a fast idle function ~ and the hand throttle. Id like to have all three functional. Originally the hand throttle was to get the car to charge while parked by bringing the idle speed up with out also choking it. I know in the 46’ there’s a lot of times that it just needs some more rpm to get it warmed and happy but by the time you pull the choke that far it’s really not happy about it so you’re not really gaining a lot. This all comes to mind because if I’m running 3 rods to a carb I’d like them all to look nice together. And parallel if possible
There were lots of cool uses of a hand throttle. A couple of years ago the throttle cable broke on my '53 pickup at Hot August Nights. I drove back that night from Reno over the mountain through Virginia City and on home with the hand throttle about 40 miles.
The Jalopy Journal
