@nunattax @Stogy i think it’s tape that got painted over. Might have a super tight hose or pipe that fits and did t want thick paint making it harder. Just hadn’t pulled it off yet. that’s what it seems like to me looking at the shape of the gunk on the inside it looks how I would imagine clear packaging tape would fold? maybe they used packaging tape to cover the inlet for time being and someone poked it all in?
Looking closer you can see an edge around the neck where it stops. I think it was shown in this condition. they may have put some cling wrap over it to keep people from being shit heads and putting something in there
I’m curious if under a fair amount of boost threw the carbs if the plenum was shared enough if it would be easier to tune because it’s less like a more. IR style intake that’s more difficult to balance even with out a blower? put straight linkage on it and party on? can’t recall how many carbs Bass is blowing threw but it’s a couple
Blow through or in a box you've got to do some work on the carbs and mechanical fuel pump so they can live with the differences in pressure inside & outside. I'd like to see a good picture of the carb side of the engine.
It’s kinda crazy that a 97 takes a ton of work to hold 7 lbs blow threw but a later Holley 4 barrel is good to go out of the gate for that much blow threw. did a ton of reading and making phone calls when I was considering it more heavily. It’s interesting how complicated and extremely simple it is at the same time. Love seeing people do it
The real problem is not just leaking compressed air, but compressed air with fuel in it! I would not want to be the tuner on that engine.
@Joe H yeah I think three carbs with no blower would be enough to get sorted out. How’s your truck goin? Get the bad gas situation sorted out?
That is the major reason a lot of the McCulloch systems put the carb in a box. With the same pressure inside & out it's easier. Basically put in a float that won't crush and fool the fuel pump with a little pressure on the back side of the diaphragm.
Had a window in my month to run to the metal supply and grabbed some bits and pieces. making progress on getting the 46 back on the road. Taking a huge chunk of September off to work on the A and some other projects so I’m trying to have a game plan and supplies ready to go. trying to have the subframe, floor supports, and other body bracing done and welded, and the chassis done and welded before snow. hopefully get everything cleaned and painted so I can reassemble the painted chassis as I rebuild the last few mechanical things left. Most of this build has been tearing rusty shit apart, scheming and fabricating. As soon as everything is final welded and cleaned its pretty damn close to being a car.
I still have one sitting in my shed that I was most recently thinking of running into a single 97 or 81 eventually so this is relevant to my interests. That said, I would definitely straight link the carbs! Is the head ported/polished? How free is the exhaust? A fella that used to be on here years ago had that flat Packard bucket with multiple carbs that was in HRM in like, 2010. What I remember was that he said tuning the multi carb setup was tricky but not impossible!
Yup! ive talked to Clive and Bass and anyone else I noticed doing it and it comes down to being very anal and tedious work but nothing real wild to make it work. if your not ok with it not holding the boost and making a mess and starting all over again it’s probably not for you
We parked by them for a couple of days at Bonneville in 2008. That is a very interesting and well built car.
Oh, bright home some more stuff too. a better 35 wire to clean up and some caps no idea what they are. The center is a stock A cap so you can see they are noticeably bigger and as far as I can tell not vented. roughly 3.25 across from tip of the bump to tip of the opposite bump. Any ideas? thinking I may use these and utilize the fatter fill hose/tube. With the saddle tanks so close to the cap seems a bigger fill then would back up slower? I’m used to filling the 46 kinds slow so it doesn’t puke everywhere but it would be cool if I didn’t have to with this one. contemplating mounting options and angles. slightly slanted up like the A sheet metal does. Cars pretty low that might make an easier fill that the cap being pretty vertical? Might not be enough to make a difference mount a threaded metal tube in the splash apron for the cap to screw onto and stick the rubber hose to the tank onto the back Put a hole in the splash apron with a rubber grommet and let the filler tube with cap pass threw. I can see this maybe allowing for an easier panel alignment? And could run with out the aprons with out messing with the filler @flatout51 suggested mount the cap on the apron but use it only for a pass threw to one of those gas caps you just shove the filler into/ threw. be a minute but there they sit the mystery caps and my brains wandering thinking about them
Just popping in quick. crawled under the car and I think my best bet is a metal elbow that’s threaded for the cap on one end. Rubber hose and two clamps to the tank and a tight rubber grommet for passing threw the apron. it’s very tight so I’m trying to consider both best function and ease of instillation and maintenance. If it works fantastic but I can’t physically put it on the car with out removing the body or something major then it’s just not a good idea in my head. second thing in the list I’ve been inventorying brake parts and making a shopping list. Some of this stuff gets spendy and I don’t want to skimp on brakes so I figure if I set a budget for each month and just schedule buying something off the list every 3 weeks or so I can let it nickle and dime and not be a “pulling the band aid off fast” situation. So far I’ve gone threw the backs and it looks like I’m just missing this clip, which a friend has, and the rest of the posts that the ebrake hangs on I’m trying to see if I can buy them by themselves or if they would come in new shoes etc. im currently price shopping to see who has what and at what price points. New vs rebuild kits. Etc that sort of stuff. I’ll put the front on some jack stands and pull the tires to see what the fronts look like later since they are in the car currently. just a quick photo I stole from the internet for reference of what’s supposed to be there. Edit: but now I can see the top spring isn’t attached correctly and I’m pretty Sure that the shorter ebrake lever is supposed to go behind the longer one so I bet this person has the drivers side e brake lever on the passenger side accidentally can anyone confirm? and my latest stinky book full of info. Edition 14 1935-51 worth the $2.50 I paid for it for sure. But dang it’s a stinky one, boarderline need a respirator paging threw it lol we discussed that maybe there are only two kinds of car people. Those who can smell that photo and those who can’t lol
I got frustrated with my front brakes and decided to drop the coin on repop Lincoln style kits. I was fortunate enough to get an unmolested set of rears with all the hardware intact but after the experience of just assembling the repop stuff, I think if I run out of complete rear setups again I will just throw money at Speedway for the Boling Brothers kits because they are nice and worth the 3x$ of originals. You can get in deep trying to piece them together. I have seen people ask over $100 for just the parking brake hardware per side.
That internet pic of brakes needs the spring to go to the leading shoe (left) and there is another horseshoe clip that secures the E brake crossbar to the pin in the vertical e-brake lever. I think they have it right in that the crossbar goes on top. I seem to remember it only can go one way. Try the other and if it binds you'll know. If I remember correctly I robbed some E Brake components off of those backing plates for my 40. Sorry!
Now that I look at some google images, maybe they do go on the back of the lever. I remember mines were on the front, so I put it back that way and it worked fine, so maybe it is a left on the right and vice versa situation. That was years ago and my memory is getting worse!
@Dan Hay haha yup it’s missing one clip and 3 of the studs that the e brake arms hang on. If you took them can you confirm That they just press into the shoe? Buddy has some clips and we’ll dig threw his stash to find some studs I think. from a @Dennis Lacy Instagram post I see that I have the 39-42 e brake levers- the ball socket for the e brake cable end is centered where 46-8 is offset an 1/8. The studs they hang off the shoes with are also an 1/8 longer which puts the cable in the exact same spot 39-48. No idea why they wanted the extra 1/8” in between for the second half of the run of production? either way I think if I can find 4 short studs the earlier e brake arms should work just fine on the later brake. really it would probably work fine with the later studs I can’t imagine 1/8” is going to make a huge difference pulling a cable that being said after price shopping around- figure they are likely all made by the same place- and checking who actually had them in stock I ended up in a spot with out free shipping so I said fuck it and ordered the brake and clutch masters and everything to fill the rear backing plates! should be here soon. Still need to take a look at my rear hub bearings etc and I assume the drums would need turned to clean them up? Haven’t looked into that sort of thing yet. September's coming up fast and I’m making a schedule, buying parts, and getting ready for a burst of progress!
My studs for the e brake weren't pressed in, they just fell out on disassembly. Are they supposed to be pressed it? Possibly, but the clips hold them in and they were functional.
@patmanta yeah I’ve seen some pretty crazy number$ on brake parts. I’m been blessed massively by my hotrod family threw out this build. There’s no chance I could do this with out them
@Dan Hay I guess I didn’t mean pressed with a press. I guess push in would have been a better wording. since I only have one stud it’s hard to figure out where things were. I see in the later studs there’s supposed to be a sprung washer but that’s about it. Is the clip your talking about on top of the ebrake arm? I’ll have to crack some old books tonight and see if I can find better diagrams Than I’ve found so far
It was on top on mine, but maybe mine were on the wrong sides. Either way, front or back there should be a retaining clip.
I'm talking 20 years ago but when I worked at CarQuest we had ALL of the individual brake hardware pieces you need. Find a parts store that's been there 20+ years with a counter person willing to search the shelves. Even O'Reilly had some when I worked there about 5 years ago. Thake what you have and match it up.
The Jalopy Journal
