I've seen a few in some older pictures. They are sometimes confused the Cadillacs or even Olds when they have Offenhauser valve covers. Sadly a lot of my pictures are disappearing from this computer.
Fair point, from the right angle they look a lot like an early caddy from the front. Actually spent about twenty minutes trying to look for clues on a photo this morning to see if it was caddy or stude. Anybody know what this empty threaded hole in the back of the passenger side head is? I guess if the heads are the same side for side it’s an oil line and likely where the oil pressure gauge was plugged into. The same hole in the drivers side head is plugged and is where an oil filter would have been fed from as previously discussed. got some kroil on the exhaust and I take manifold bolts and the valve covers. Gonna get it cleaned up and then open it up before I try to turn it. Just want to make sure there’s no trash in there before it rolls over
Oh duh and Tyler’s truck of course. Just found his build thread on his new engine this morning. 229 cid Studebaker! I believe Tom’s motor is 304? https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/studebaker-299ci-saga.1104571/
Yes the heads swap. The two plates with two bolts are where the water pump housing bolts on the other end. I think the temp sender may be in one of those plates. What ever uses that hole on the front of the other head is what it is for. Where is the oil pressure sender? It might be that. It has been over 20 years since I worked on one of these. Some of it is coming back. I need to take some pictures tomorrow.
On my girls 259 is pass head rear port is the oil sender, drivers head front is capped (no oil filter). Also the oil pressure relief valve and port needs to be serviced regularly. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub...re-relief-valve-setting?p=1150909#post1150909
Got the cars swapped around. First time the A has been moved in a year and a half or so. I can tell there’s no air pressure in the tires but the cars so light you can’t hardly see it. I only noticed when it took a full hand instead of a few fingers to push it lol.
That relief valve can effect oil pressure. These engines can pump the oil into the valve covers faster than it can drain back into the pan at prolonged high rpm. There are a few tricks to help but shouldn't be an issue on the street. As far as making power the heads are the biggest issue. Our friend John Erb was working on a new design when he died. He said they were Studebaker on the outside and LS on the inside. Lionel Stone produced some Aluminum R3 heads but castings were slightly off Erb was working on that too. These are the R3s.
Yeah I hear a lot about the crummy heads for studes, an “ls” head would have been a game changer I’m sure. Seems a lot of those guys passed the last few years.
Mike VV knows a *lot* about Stude heads n porting them -correctly- . No idea what a set'd go for, but I myself would like a set. Gotta figure out how to afford them - if he'll cut another set. Another fellow, also on the hamb, offers, or did, decent ported Stude heads(think sorta hot-street). Price wasn't horrible. He also did the Al-welded manifolds(usually chrys->stude). & another did offer adapter-plates to us the early sb chev v8 manifolds. A (now-passed) friend did up a set of adaptors to use early sb chrys manifolds, but the angles were rather steep/abrupt. Racing Studebakers is a very nice site to burn a lot of time, following what others have done for the v8, in terms of hoppin-up/etc. Marcus...
Here are some pictures of a 289 in a '64 Lark in the yard. The number shows it is and R1 I think (10.25 to 1 CR) maybe R2 (9 to 1 CR because it was supercharged). It did not come in this Lark and there is a story behind it. I hauled it home from Chico several years ago along with some parts. I got it from a cool old former Stude mechanic. Excuse the packrat poop. There is a plate with a fitting for an oil line where the breather/fuel pump stand goes. Unlike the alternator bracket it looks stock. The valve covers have breathers/oil fill caps. The covers are stock chrome. No oil filter in sight. It might be one of the full flow screw on later blocks. I'm not crawling in the stickers to see. I need to see if it is savable.
Found this caddy powered 32 with a similar steering set up. I realize a 32 is likely to have the steering exit the firewall at a different height and a caddy isn’t a Stude but they are both close enough to steal photos of when it’s creeping up on mockup time so I’ll share them anyways. I tried to load them in order but if not at least one has the guys Instagram handle if you want to hunt for more. a few of the passenger side because why not
Cross steer is where it’s at… less chance for bump steer. My pickup is setup this way. Moriarity has a dual point listed for a stude in the classifieds go nab it! Lookin good Tim Tuck
Thanks @Tuck gotta see if this lump will fit before I get to far but I have been eye balling the classifieds. Need to get this big olds gone lol. Been sick the last few days so why not start cleaning the 1/4 to 1/2 inch of oil clay off the trans? That’s not vomit inducing at all lol Got all this off just the intake, it’s been on the bottom of a storage rack for quite a while hiding under a bear skin so I’m sure much of it’s just stuff landing on it. Did vacuum a lot of dirt, sand and maybe white sand off it…. Which promptly blew out the back of the shop vac and all over my freshly washed 46 because I forgot I’d taken the filter out of it. Whoops. carb primary was full of mud dauber nest but the bottom looks ok that’s about as far as we got today was time to lay down and take a break get some fluids. Still fun to walk by taking the trash out though.
Nothing witty or intelligent to add. Just sitting back and learning. The stude seems to have givin you some juice to this project Tim. Car sits great in the outside shots.
Hey @Six Ball can you find out what jeep starter works on the later motor you buddy is using? I found it the other night but have miss placed the info and was thinking if I found the correct size gear that would fit the the jeep starter It should work on the earlier motor
Couple squirts of kroil a week and these exhaust manifold bolts damn turn finger turned out. I can’t believe how light they are. A sbc ram horn has to weight 3-5 times are much. These feel cast aluminum light. If they weren’t rusty I’d think they were. Must be thin castings?
Yeah a friend uses a 87? Ish v8 jeep starter on his 56 or newer stuff v8? I found some things online the other night but the stude pages that come up today won’t load for me so the hunt died for the day. maybe it was somebody else lol
Exhaust manifolds were fairly light, flowed well for that engine size. Sadly, wait till you get to the water pump housing... ;( . Marcus...
@Six Ball maybe it was someone else in the starter thread I’ll find it eventually. @nrgwizard man the intake weighed waaaaaay more then I expected! decided to take the top off and see what’s in there! Jack pot! Very clean! I notice in the photos some of the oil in the lifter valley looks grey. It’s not it’s nice and black it’s reflecting my white ceiling. I’m very happy to find this.
I do need to find a source for these little valve cover grommets. Seems like some guys just go through a Dorman drawer til you find close enough.
Assuming this is the oil pressure valve? Big mess big success? little bit longer lol kinda sorta where that should land And that’s tonight’s updates
@Six Ball “9000-15 Powermaster (V8 jeep to '87) works apparently but I'm not sure on specifics.” It was @Rynothealbino that had shared this not you. Knew I’d find it.
WOW, I never heard that before. I'll check it out. I may order one of those and compare it to the one I have. Then return it or keep it if it looks right. Engine looks good. Two tricks to get the oil back in the pan were to enlarge the hole in the back where it returns (looks like yours has some flashing) and to fill the valley with JB Weld and taper it down front to back toward the hole. There was also something about enlarging the drain holes in the heads. Neither of which you'd want to do without a complete tear down. I was trying to see, as you clean the transmission, if there is an OD kick out switch on the back of the tranny near where the OD bolts to it. It id a small unit that shorts out the solenoid when you shift into reverse. Otherwise you have to remember to shift the cable every time you back up. The OD does not like turning backwards.
The Jalopy Journal
