You'll definitely want to use the the stock inside throwout bearing setup. It is unique. The beating itself can be replaced in the carrier. How you turn it outside is pretty simple and it look like you have the stuff. In the picture the flat on the bottom of the trans in ftont of the lower OD to trans bolt is where SOME T86s are drilled for a mount and the OD just hangs out the back. If that is in a pickup it has the rear mounts on the bell housing and is pretty solid with no other support but without the truck rear mount it needs real help. If your trans doesn't have the mount hole the boss is there to drill them. Just a note: The firing order is the same as a Chevy v8 but the distributer turns the other way. Don't ask how I learned this. On a second look that OD case doesn't look like yours. It doesn't seem to have the OD reverse kick out switch like yours. (very desirable) The tail cone attaches with 3 bolts and I don't think yours does. Probably older. You've probably noticed that the yoke doesn't slip so that will have to be part of the drive shaft. Also the seal on the yoke is a very long felt seal and probably in the source of the oil & dirt you removed, maybe a tear main as well. Those seals are a pain to pull but there is a new neoprene replacement. I have had good luck with using a pick to "fluff" the old felt and have it seal again. You could builed a rear mount that uses the OD case to tranny bolts.
@Six Ball yeah the plan is a hydraulic slave cylinder attached to as much stock stuff as I have. I do think the oil issues has been resolved based on the clean motor. But it’ll all come apart for some gaskets and paint either way so I’ll keep an eye out for those things. Started thumbing threw books on the shelf to see what info I can find. Was hoping for a clutch pedal/ linkage diagram but no luck so far. I did how ever find a section on removing the oil pan and it sounds like I can do it with out removing the timing cover. There is a horse shoe shaped piece that I see referred to as a filler block that fills the gap between the front of the pan and the bottom of the timing cover that needs squished between things but other wise sounds like remove the bolts and that’s that. this big book is over a thousand pages so it’s likely what I need to find is in there somewhere. I’ll keep looking when I get spare moments. The slip joint inside the driveshaft makes since, I think I saw a photo previously that showed it. Wonder how odd ball that is to come up with? Seems similar to a carrier bearing? on the boss’s being there to drill for the mount are you talking about at the back of the trans/OD or the bell housing/ truck/rear mount? I’ll see if I can find a photo of a pickup bellhousing mount
This is what comes up when I looked up 55’ Studebaker truck rear motor mounts. Looks pretty simple just some ears mounting to a few lower bell housing bolts. im not sure how much difference they would make with the trans mount being so far forward though? found these too, are the trucks the only ones using a rear motor mount?
It looks like in your expanded engine view there is a mount under the bell housing. The truck mounts on my bell housing are like the cast ones in the picture. There are drive shafts out there with a slip joint. I need one for my roadster too. The boss on the bottom of the transmission case. Some are drilled and some aren't.
I’ll have to take a look. I was thinking that boss on the trans isn’t to far back from the bellhousing/ engine division line so I didn’t know if a mount there and a mount on the bellhousing was really gaining much. @Johnny Sparkle current build has the factory front mount location and a five speed behind it using the stock 5 speed mount. I’m not seeing a lot of the hot rods with studes running mid mounts from what I can see in photos I can find. I guess it’s not any different than the 900 threads on sbc’s running a hurst mount with no mid mounts, which all seem to end with if it’s an aluminum bellhousing it’s probably not a great idea. ramble over lol
Thinking of watching this video series again as a refresher. I figured I’d share it here. I think it’s like 12 videos all in all, from pulling the motor, rebuilding it, dyno and putting it back in the car. I watched it a couple months ago all the way threw and learned a lot of little things. Great for a visual learner or someone who just has a thousand very specific questions.
I'll put to on my list. I started looking through my Dick Dotson engine book. Not a quick or easy read but tons on information. Lots of comparisons with 327 Chevy. He make points for the weight and tells how getting power from the Stude is different.
You tube videos have been fantastic for my endless questions because often I’m curious of how something should look or feel when installed correctly, or the job a bolt is doing etc etc. things that are kind of hard to word if your asking but super easy to see the answer to in a video. I pulled YouTube up on my tv so I could get a good look and watched a chapter each evening so I could kinda soak it in and make since of it. Once I understand exactly how and why something functions I retain it really well. Figure one more run threw the videos and I should be able to most of it from memory.
Oh! And on a different model A note I found wood worker threw a mutual friend who can steam bend pieces. So I’m leaning back towards the roof wood staying wood instead of making it out of metal. If I can steam bend the arches into everything instead of having to whittle them all to shape it would make quick work of it for sure.
In my Chevy there is no bent wood, well there wasn't 97 yers ago. With the amount of bending needed in an A top you could probably soak or boil it and weight it down over form. I agree about tie visual advantage of videos in some learning.
Yeah there’s not a ton of arch in the roof wood but it’s super obvious when it’s not there lol. Guys got a steam set up that we can build the cabinet to suit so it seems pretty ideal. The side runs are the same so one form, and the cross pieces are all pretty close to the same arch so in theory two forms and you’re set. not happening for a while either way but feeling good about the resource.
I’m not sure if the stock ones are cut or bent but in my head bent would be the stronger of the two. Probably makes no difference but I’ve wanted to steam bend something for about 15 years so I’ll take the excuse
What ever works for you. If you have an old one you could look at the side and see if the grain is bent or cut. I betting bent. I saw an YouTube video of a guy steaming small pieces like that in large PVC pipe. Then he clamped them to a form on a bench cut form a board.
If you're going to steam-bend, 1st get your male-form correct undersize, then make strips ~ 1/8' or a little thicker to whatever width you want(do research the kind of wood to use - I'd start looking at aircraft-quality Sitka Spruce), steam them(water soaking could work), glue & clamp(lots...), let harden. More or less how it's done(minus the actual labor... ). Essentially, what you're doing, is creating a pre-formed piece of plywood. On DD, when he did his Stude vs chevy sb weight investigation, the results were actually interesting. Almost all of the components were similar in weight - except the h2o pump housing. I don't remember where he found the extra ~70 lbs, but that's where a lot of it is. IIRC, the intake is a little heavier, too. Couple lbs here n there, adds up. But there is composition(forged vs cast) to consider also. Weight isn't *always* an enemy. Depends where it is & why... . A lot of what DD did, was a combo of preservation(longevity & usefulness - not oem restoration, & hi-po). 6-ball is correct, but a lot of updating has been done, & put out there on RacingStudebakers. Think of it as DD.2.0 , DD-lite or thereabouts... . If you want twisted/bent/curved wood(lumber), w/o any additional charge(s), try Menards'... . Marcus...
I really like reading DDs stuff. It puts me in "pondering mode". John Erb told me he took over 100 pounds off a Stude V8. Much from the block. At the time we were looking at it. I wish I knew where it is now. A guy I knew that grew up in SOCAL said he put Studebaker cranks in small block Chevys he raced because they were forged. Don't know if it was true or not. He told me the '28 Chevy engine I bought from him was a runner.
Found his screen name! @Nailhead Jason is who has the yellow stuff with the finned studs valve covers I posted a few pages back
Yup! That one is mine. Slated to go into my 32 sedan hopefully next year. I got the motor as you see it when it was pulled and gone through to go into a sweet little Lark convertible, but the prior owner found some super rare 6x2 stude intake and decided to build a whole other 289. Mine is a 259 with r3 cam those slick valve covers and valley pan all tied to an Avanti t10 four speed. The stuff is out there. My 259 was built completely out of NOS parts. Nos block crank heads rods rockers everything. It litteraly has only ever had 5000 miles on it and it was completely gone through again right before I got it.
@Nailhead Jason I just might take you up on that! Right now I’m starting to look a little more in earnest for a starter. Might convince someone to come help me start swapping motors this afternoon. Fingers crossed
Hey while I’m thinking about it. With the pinion angle at zero, top of valve covers at zero the carb pad is noise down 6 deg. which puts the carb at level with the engine 6 deg tail down. That’s twice as much as the 3 deg as I see on chevys. Is this pretty standard with a Studebaker? I googled around but didn’t find anything worth while. I’ll add some photos tonight
Tonight, several days from now. Tomato tomato. Torque tube is at zero carb at zero. A sbc is 3 deg nose up to get the carb flat I have no memory if this is the same, I just set the carb at zero and went forward. trans top at zero Valve covers just a hair nose up carb is 5 nose down in that same position. I hit the right combination of words and found that a Studebaker does run five deg nose up to get the carb flat. Seems like a lot but it’s only 2 deg from where a Chevy is. Two degrees will likely translate to a little nudge and not a 1/4 inch.
Well… let’s see here few more bolts feels like my garage looks like the cover of a late 90’s issue of car craft lol had to put the tires on blocks to get the hoist under the axle and drag link. Honestly took more time to sit the engine and trans down than to pull it all out. Had to remove a motor mount to get it out then ended up putting it back on to sit the motor on two jack stands with the trans on a tire when I realized the tire was to wide To let me sit the motor down between the legs of the hoist. Also found the motor is still very full of anti freeze lol. Thankfully I keep plenty of floor dry on hand. gonna see if I can’t get the stude in there tomorrow night. Torque tube is probably in the way but maybe I can push it up out of the way. Fingers crossed
also if you are looking for cool valve covers, early olds 303 and 324 aftermarket valve covers will fit on a stude with the holes redrilled, infact the early Offy and Weiand covers are cast to be drilled for either motor, and the holes that are drilled for mounting dictate which one it fits, Olds or Stude.
Yeah I’ve seen some of the Weiand and offy covers that have bosses to drill for either engine. I’d really like to have a set of these early Stude covers chromed but I don’t know if it’s really in the cards gonna call and ask when I get closer
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