Find what works and use it. Hide a pick handle somewhere in the car and hit everyone between the eyes that mentions traditional or period correct. If it disqualifies you from Pebble Beach, OH Well. Do not put something on there that is made to look like something else.
It would take more shit talking than they could muster to ruffle my feathers I’m not worried about lol. anyhow saw these olds headers and love them love that the cone flows into the larger center primary and the smaller front primary so perfectly for contrast that’s what they would typically look like.
I'd very much like to add a denso to my project, but am not sure which make/model year to get that is easy to wire and throws decent amps? Any help with which one to get? Thanks. -rick
Rick I’ll repost it when I get closer but I believe I posted the good one when I chewed on this issue with the last engine set up . I’ve just got to go digging for it
I really like those headers too. Well thought out. Here is a little black 90 amp Denso that Speedway sells for about $130. I'm thinking about one of these if I can't convert a small 6v generator to 12v for my roadster.
Looking around for boxing plates and find that speedway and rjays don’t carry them. Or at least list them. I’ve seen a few recommendations for wolfes metal Fabrication but nothing recent. Anyone use them? I’m going to nose around a bit more to see if I can find something local-ish because I’m sure shipping on these will really jack the price point up https://www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com/ModelAboxingplates.html found them on eBay with reviews/feedback in the last six months but posts but can’t find any social media or anything from them. Looks like they are location west of Lincoln Maybe they’ll be at the swap meet here ins. Few months.
Don't know anything about them but the pictures are nice. Are you thinking of cutting some holes? It would make running wires & lines easier. Usually I think a lot of people over do boxing but here the extra weight & torque make it a good idea.
I had previously planned to use solid boxing plates and weld nuts in for everything. The belled hole plates he offers are about twice and much money. someone did mention. Not welding in nuts for everything because he could get to them all through the holes. So with that in mind maybe I’ll tally up how many weld flange nuts I would need and then see if that’s close to $150 worth of nuts. be kinda neat from a hot rod angle if they were hole’d but that decision will 100% be made on cost comparison
Yeah, figure by the time I buy the correct hole saws, and possibly more than one of each because we know they aren’t that hard to dull, add in the time it’s probably cheaper to pay the extra buck fifty. looking at the prices for various weld flange nuts I could see me run up close to a hundred bucks on them pretty fast. I’ll have to go to the store after I do a nut and bolt count and see what it really would run me
If your car is done right most people will never know what it took. If it is a cobbled piece of crap everyone can see how hard it was.
Stumbled across a 259 in an A on Instagram no idea if he’s on the hamb but I know the steering’s on the wrong side so he’s probably not local to me lol
-35 this weekend with the wind. Highs don’t break above 13 until Wednesday so…. No garage time. It’s well insulated but heated it’s not. I’ve toyed with the idea of a mini split. If it’s gonna keep being this cold in the winter I might have to syphon some car funds and make it happen. Not sure how great they work when it’s this cold though. brrr!
Thanks that makes me appreciate +20 and right now the sun is shining (solar panels charging) and no wind. Snow is melting in the road maybe I'll get the propane truck in later in the week, just maybe?
We have warmed up to feels like -11 and is snowing. Much colder the further north ya go. Been looking at some Propane powered heaters that vent outside. I can turn some fans on in the summer but once the shop gets under 30 it’s hard to get me to want to go out there lol
I have a Mr. Heater radiant non vented heater that I use in the shop. 24x24 with insulated 2x6 construction. On the lowest setting just where it will come on it keeps the shop around 60. Amazingly that is warm enough to do lots of work. I get about a month from a 25 gallon tank of propane. There is a wood stove too if I'm going to be there all day. The wood is free for the cutting.
I am no expert, but a mini split will NOT keep up with low temps. I have a ductless mini split in my house that I installed myself - 95% of the time it is amazing, but in the winter, below about 40*F, it cannot exchange enough heat with the outside to work. I have read that you can bury 25' of lineset 4' underground to use ground temp as a reservoir to cheat that, but I dunno if that would be practical. It's best to have supplement heat for the colder temps. I have a complete NIGHTMARE of a remodel ongoing, with a couple bare stud walls and insulation in attic removed and bare subfloor etc.... so I'm not doing myself any favors. BUT, for context, running a single burner on my gas stove, which is near the ceiling cassette, is enough BTU's to bump up the heat for the whole house (single story, 1,000 sq ft lol). It's currently 17*F here, and I've got the inside of the house about 68*F with the burner method... without the burner going, the heat pump was only able to keep the house about 50*F - I know this because I was gone over the weekend and didn't run the burner while I was away and can monitor room temps from an app on my phone. At this point of cold temps, the heat pump unit is just distributing the heat from the burner. Super ghetto but also super cheap and works great. I can get away with this because of the draft in the house - I just installed a monitor to detect gas leaks and/or oxygen depletion. Long term, I plan to install a gas fireplace for supplement heat in winter. So.... in your shop, a heat pump would be awesome until temps drop below 40*F or so, then you need supplement heat. Even a propane heater near the heat pump cassette would work great to kick that heat out and distribute it to the rest of the shop/garage. As far as cost to heat and cool goes, they are awesome, but they do have limitations in extreme temperatures. If I ever get my way to add a studio apt above my garage, I'm goint to try to get radiant floor heating in the garage when the new foundation is poured, but at this point, it's a pipe dream. Sorry if you read this immediately, I edited it about 5x in a few minutes lol.
Yeah I found that as well, not gonna work in the temps I would actually need it to. I think I’m leaning g towards block heaters for the cars so I don’t worry about it and a coat for me. back to stude stuff looks like the guy making the gear reduction starters is out of stock. I’m sure he could make me another one but I’m back looking around for a cheap 6V Delco starter 1107115.
I'm moving in a couple of years to an area with snow (at least I hope to) and a steel building is going to be it for me....so keep posting about heaters or heating methods. Right now I can work just fine around 60 deg days in a sweatshirt and shorts (no heat in the garage), but that's way different then 40s or below. Also he's a little luckier with the right hand steering as the starter is on the left side......
Man I’d say insulation plays the biggest roll in staying warm. I’ve had shops with lots of insulation and no windows, and shops I could litterally see through the walls. Keeping them workable was quite a bit different one to the other in the winter!
I'd say another big factor is the size of building and height of the ceiling. If I ever get to build from scratch, I'd have an out-building for finished cars with basic electricity and minimal insulation, and a separate, very well insulated ~ 20x20 shop, likely with a grease pit instead of a lift. Gotta remember, heat rises and the volume of air you gotta condition is directly reflected in your energy costs. Sorry I can't help on Delco starters. Keep up the detective work! Edit: Have you ever tried calling Old Car Parts in Portland, OR? They have a lot of 6V GM stuff, and they might have one of those starters. Worth a shot? Their number is (503) 771-9416, and it's run by a father/son team, Joe Sr. and Joe Jr., both of which are hilarious and very knowledgeable.
I’ll add that to the list! I have a couple local spots I’m gonna try to check out once the cold clears.
My shop is 24X24 sorta' with 10; ceiling and has a 16X24 "studio" above. I think the studio helps insulate the shop though it is not often heated. I think all the junk in the shop helps too once it is warmed. Probably the only thing specific to the Studebaker starter is the nose piece and maybe the bendix. everything else can probably be taken from something more common.
Yeah I saw someone using a ford mini starter on one with some sort of non stock transmission adapted. So I’ve started researching backwards to see what’s in common. need to call my local starter guy and say “can you build be a starter that’s got a 9 tooth drive gear with a 1.125 od that bolts to these two holes and extends 2” I did email the mini starter guy to see if he would build an early stude mini starter to order since they aren’t shown as being in stock on the site now.
If finding a 12v starter is easier it might be possible to use the 6v gear. Anything here that may help? https://www.ebay.com/b/Car-Truck-Starters-for-Studebaker/177699/bn_1483474
I would agree with Six Ball here. Surely the difference in all the starters is simply what parts are used in the case but all can interchange. A Stude case with 12 volt armature would probably accept a 6 volt bendix/gear.
Nope totally different not even the number of brushes are the same inside lol. It’s really crazy how much different they are. The shafts are different diameters and the the drive gear that goes onto doesn’t even use the same attachment method. but on an interchange thought, the mini starter guy stocks a 12 volt style starter and an early olds starter. So in theory bolt his Denso starter to the late Stude starter adapter plate but put an early olds gear on it. that should be the recipe for an early style starter. I’ll keep you posted. Be a good time to find a Hollander manual
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