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Projects Tim's (aka anothercarguy) 1938 Ford Club Cabriolet Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by anothercarguy, Dec 10, 2020.

  1. Yes indeed...and I'm religious about wearing eye protection when there are sparks in the air. That said, I've experienced those little heat seeking guided missiles ricocheting off my forehead, carefully steering their way through my somewhat bushy eyebrows, hitting the backside of the safety glasses before leaping to their final death/resting spot, my eye (it's happened more than once!...as such, for the past couple years I wear both safety (magnifying, because, well, I'm old!) glasses and a shield). But, this time, I was just laying under the car, bolting on the front fenders after having them off to sandblast the backside. And, I admit (to the optometrist as well) I wasn't wearing eye protection for that task. After ward, when I felt the "gravel" in my eye, I thought it must have been a piece of sand, and figured it would rinse out. I was wrong.
     
  2. Guilty for not wearing eye protection for a long time. Now that I'm older glasses are required to see. A old sheet metal man told me that a menthol filtered cigarette butt rubbed across the eye takes out steel slivers too. Ouch on both accounts.
     
    anothercarguy likes this.
  3. a good clean tissue wrapped around any magnet works and you can tell if it came out.
     
  4. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,947

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    How's this for a weird occurrence. Working on my header project, I was lying on my back under the car tacking some tubes and a healthy spark found and entered my ear channel,...burned the ear drum and started an infection :( Took about a month to heal and get full audio service back. Never thunk to wear ear plugs for welding ;)
     
  5. I hate it when that happens too!! And that great sizzling sound it makes as it bounces around in there! My eye has healed up...hope your ear does the same.
     
  6. It's been a few weeks since my last update...between life events, I've been able to find a few small pockets of time here and there to work on body working the front fenders.
    20250327_121057.jpg 20250327_121109.jpg
    Once they were metal prepped, they received about eleventy-two coats of Rage Gold filler.
    20250328_104424.jpg
    Followed by sanding and removing eleventy-one coats of filler.
    20250409_122609.jpg 20250409_122620.jpg
    Once done, they were removed from the car for a few coats of high build primer. There's nothing like a panel being all one color again to show the areas that somehow require additional attention (I missed a few spots on these!).
    20250410_130415.jpg 20250410_130418.jpg
    The front fenders will join the other primed panels slowly curing and awaiting guide coat and additional block sanding (not to mention additional work on the areas that I missed).
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2025
  7. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,720

    The 39 guy
    Member

    I feel your pain. Bondo on, sand bondo off.... Repeat" eleventy" times if needed. Seems endless some days. One can certainly gain a greater respect for those that do this every day by doing it yourself. I have a greater insight into why this phase of a restoration costs so much and why so few do it. I also see why a good body man is very reluctant to quote a price for this work.
     
    anothercarguy likes this.
  8. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,720

    The 39 guy
    Member

    I bought some of that graphite guide coat the other day. I wasn't impressed. It's messy and gets attached to everything. I think I will go back to spray bomb guide coat.
     
    anothercarguy likes this.
  9. I know right?

    I've used the graphite (like?) guide coat in the past and prefer it over spray bombs. Don't discard the stuff you bought if you don't care for it, I'd be interested in it.
     
  10. how is the graphite stuff dispensed?
     
  11. Screenshot_20250410_185233_Chrome.jpg
    It comes in a container that sort of resembles a sour cream container with a sponge like applicator on the top. Between the container and applicator, there are holes in the lid. By shaking the container, small particles make their way through the holes in the lid and embed into the applicator.

    https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/v000056355/
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2025
    brEad and Fortunateson like this.
  12. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,396

    ronzmtrwrx
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Man, ya got those fenders lookin good.
     
    anothercarguy likes this.
  13. Thanks Ron.
     
    ronzmtrwrx likes this.
  14. I've been slowly plugging away at the body work...next up was the cowl and dash. After stripping pretty much everything that was in the way and that would unbolt, I cleaned up the sheet metal one last time, applied filler, sanded filler, added more filler, sanded more filler and repeat etc...until it was ready for the high build primer. 1000012678.jpg 1000012679.jpg 1000012695.jpg 1000012814.jpg 1000012815.jpg 1000012816.jpg 1000012834.jpg
    I was curious about trying out the "stink block" that Darryl Hollenbeck mentioned in his video (linked in post #495 above). I had done a bit of research and found the product he references is actually an Owen-Corning glass foam insulation product used in the construction industry. I sourced it locally and used it as the first round of blocking out the rear fenders (the high build primer had been curing for a few months). The foam glass works very well in quickly conforming to the compound rounded shapes of these cars and parts. The foam glass and guide coat, works very well at quickly levelling out the panels. I was/am impressed! After a quick lap of the rear fenders using the foam glass as the sand paper and block, it quickly levelled out the primer/panel and showed some highs and lows that were left after the first round of body work. After I was done with the foam glass sanding block, the freshly "straight" rear fenders got another (and I believe the last) coat of Slick Sand high-fill primer.
    1000012835.jpg 1000012836.jpg
    Next up will be the doors.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2025
    brEad, Rob28, Hot Rod Ron and 10 others like this.
  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,259

    alchemy
    Member

    Part number for the Owens Corning stink block? I had a hard time finding it locally.
     
  16. This is a copy of the invoice for the block that I purchased. It gives the product number, supplier and the cost (in Canadian $) for the 15 sq ft (5 pieces, 18"x24"x4")

    upload_2025-5-18_17-47-41.jpeg
     
    RodStRace likes this.
  17. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 7,569

    RodStRace
    Member

    Thanks for that!
    I doubt I'll get my fiberglass body straight as your fenders were even before filler, but if/when I tackle that, it is nice to have a link for the right product.
    Owen-Corning glass foam insulation product FGBKPP40F Foamglass Block
     
    anothercarguy likes this.
  18. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,720

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Wow, you are doing a great job on the body work! I have been trying to figure out a good way to hold my rear fenders for the body work coming up. Although I can't see how you tied yours together I think I get the idea. We have been working on the doors for weeks now. We hope to get some black paint on them this week. Thanks for the update Tim!
     
    ronzmtrwrx and Kelly Burns like this.
  19. Thanks Sam, I'm looking forward to your updates as well. There are 5 scrap wood straps bridging the gap between the 2 fenders (screwed into the body mounting holes, and one across the bottom towards the rear of the fender screwed into the fender brace holes). It stabilizes the amount of "flop" and twist the fenders otherwise have with seemingly no other way to hold them except for bolting them back onto the body.
     
  20. Doors done. Note the big black brick...that's a chunk of the foam glass "stink block"... 1000012887.jpg 1000012888.jpg 1000012890.jpg 1000012891.jpg
    Next up, the back half of the body shell.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2025
    Chief 64, brEad, PoTaToTrUcK and 6 others like this.
  21. The last section to complete the body filler stage was the rear 1/4's/body tub...
    1000013294.jpg 1000013295.jpg

    Once done with the filler, a quick round of masking tape and the rear 1/4's/body tub got a few coats of high-build primer (Yay...all one color again!!!).
    1000013318.jpg 1000013319.jpg 1000013320.jpg
    I will be switching gears for a few days to do a round of maintenance on the '32 so it's ready for Deuce Days in Victoria next month. I may even try to get in a day or 2 of Coho fishing! Then it'll be guide coat and the progressively finer grades of sandpaper block sanding will begin.
     
  22. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,720

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Looks great! You deserve some time off.
     
    Kelly Burns and anothercarguy like this.
  23. Gene T Stark
    Joined: Nov 1, 2016
    Posts: 52

    Gene T Stark

    Looks really good.
    Enjoy Deuce Days.
     
    anothercarguy and Kelly Burns like this.

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