progress has been REALLY stop and go on my HA/GR project, it's been on STOP since before the drags. I FINALLY took the plunge today, started taking engine stuff to the machine shop. We'll see how far I can get with that! I'm not ready yet to pick a number or a name, or to say that I'll make it to Mokan in '08, but here are a few details 1950 Dodge 230" 6 Lasalle trans Dana 44 or Ford Banjo rear (still fighting myself on this one) mid engine layout 3" round tube rails old painted steel spindle mount wires old chromed cut down Ford spindles right now it's a drilled I beam, but I'm still trying to swindle away a chrome V8-60 axle from a source. pictures will come just as soon as there's something to look at.
I know how that goes. I want to start on one but got to get the Rod done first. So I have desided to build mine on paper and fine tune it using a computer program I used in the past. I like the look of Barn Job #18 and will build mine as a rear engined rail too. I'll run a Ford 223 stroker engine and a 3 speed top loader with the short truck/van tailhousing and a 8" or 9" rearend. I was looking at a old Spotlite Book 520 (copyright 1962) and it showed a number of front engined rails using the VW front ends. With a rearengined rail will Ryan allow the VW front end or must it be a I-beam or tube axle? Dutch
I don't know why not.. I've seen some really fast cars with the VW unit on the front. But it does shorten the wheel base quite a bit..(Just longer frame rails)
you might want weigh that vw frontend its heavyer than it appears also not period correct just my 2 cents worth HAPPY NEW YEAR
Keep buildin'! I'd like to see the Mopar and the Ford six in the game. I agree with Mudflap. If it is correct, it ain't too pretty.
Moparsled, The V8-60 and wires would look fantastic. However, the VW would work also. You could turn it around backward and have the arms pointing forward. Sounds kinda like what we would have done in the 50's. Dutchtreat, I think a rear engined car will eventually be the fastest with it's better weight distribution. Rand Man, did you ever get the info and pictures of the cars from Australia? Drewfus was going to forward them to you. Ron
I'm trying hard to keep the general parts list to '55 and older, and trying to study how my car might have been built with those parts. Stuff like the round tube over a box tube, the lasalle trans, those would have been the choices then. I'm still battling within myself about the rear. My initial choice, was a Dana 44 out of a CJ5. Plenty strong, very inexpensive to build, quite light, and quite narrow. Nostalgic too, in a way, the 44 goes back way before '55, however, it was never a popular dragster choice, or at least not that I've seen. the other choice is a Ford V8 based quickchange- but not just any, I want to build one from scratch, like a Wilson Welding Speed Demon. It's a task I'm willing to take, the final product would be an incredible addition to the car, but, there's the expense, the weight, the drag of the extra parts, and well, probably the part that makes me second guess the most is the Merc axle conversion. The end result will be wider than I want for the car, and,by the rules, I can't shorten the axles. I'll figure it out eventually.
Yes, I got the e-mails from Drewfus. I've been swamped with work, family, remodeling the house, and all. Maybe I can print those out today.
I noticed that you are wanting an aluminum flywheel for a Mopar six. I have been down that route and can tell you unless you run into the fact that something new will fit your Mopar you are out of luck. I talked to one manufacturer and they said if I sent the castiron flywheel to them they would make an aluminum one. The cost was not mentioned. If you have a manchine shop with a CNC mill they can make you one and all you have to do is find the ring gear to fit. I would presume that you have a castiron flywheel and you might be able to salvage the ring gear from it. That is the hard part coming up with speed equipment for these old engines. Unless it is a small block Chevy or Ford nothing has been made in the last 40 years except for the flathead Ford.Roy
the aluminum flywheel isn't for this project, but they are out there- I've missed out on a couple in the past. This car will have a stocker, possibly worked over for the application. For the rail I should probably have a 'wanted' in my sig line for an NOS 12v neg ground Mallory Magspark box to go with my distributor!!
Randy, No hurry. It sounds like you have your hands full. Moparsled, If your still looking for rods for the Plymouth engine you might give this guy a call: Paul's Rods 816-587-4747 (Kansas City area) Ron
Good to see some more going up ......... While the bug fronts "technically" didn't show up much 'til slingshots I personally think a kingpin set would look great on a HAMBster, especially reversed. They were available and while they certainly weren't common I'd bet cash someone somewhere did it. Unfortunately mudflap261's right on his point that they're heavier than they appear. We also considered a 44 Dana, and still will if our freebie 7 1/4" can't take it. And even a bunch of parts laid out on the floor's "something to look at", so where're those pictures?
Well the VW with spindel mount wire wheels is one way of going, I saw photos of them were the top Torque tube was cut off and only the bottom tube used. Although I may go with an I beam axle with spindel mount wire wheels, just depends I what I can get "Cheep" and make work. Or I may just use the lower Torque tube from the VW front end and mount an I-beam axle to it. I'd love an Anglia I-beam axle with the spindels, but that would cost an arm and a leg. But it will be a rear engined rail like Barn Job 18. I have located a 262 Ford 6 and will start collecting parts this winter. Next I'll need a short tailhousing 3 speed top loader out of a Ford pickup or van. I have looked at the 8" as it's alot lighter than the 9", but to build it to hold up to the Tq. of the 262's 4+" stroke crank would be very expensive. So I'll be looking for a '69-'75 Ford Bronco 9" rearend.
Keep at it, bit by bit, and try NOT to 'over think' the car, find a diff that's servicable and make it happen, after all, you can always change it later on down the track. Also, haven't forgotten you, just looking for some extra 'special' bits to add to your parcel .... Cheers, and get cracking, Drewfus
I have located an anglia axle with spindels in my price range so I'll go with it. Right now everything is on hold for a few months to see what happens at work. I have also located a truck (short tailhousing) top loader 3 speed. I'll mate it to a Bronco 9" and have a compact setup. With 3"x2" tube frame it will be light weight and fast. I have been looking at how to hop up the 262 to make 200 to 250HP when it's bored and stroked. I'm looking at running 292 pistons and **** I-beam stroker rods (cheaper than rebuilding the stock rods). Deck the block .020 and the head the same. Install 1.94" intake and 1.60" exhaust valves made for a Y-block. Build a custom 3 1 barrel carb intake and of course Zoome headers. My buddy ran it on the computer program and it's FAST. Now all I need is to collect all the parts and build it.
Sounds to me like you have a good program and will be stiff compe***ion.Keep up the go work and bring it on.
You know that is what is fantastic about this cl***, all of the variables. We will have a variety of engines all running in the same cl*** which is certainly different than the rest of drag racing. That ws the way it was in the fifties, nailhead Buicks, Cadillacs, Olds and a whole slew of different combos running. It was interesting to see all the home engeneered. I have a picture of a nailhead Buick running carbs on the exhaust ports and headers coming out were the intake boled on. I don't know if it ran or not but people were thinking back then. Now you just bolt together or more likely get a crate engine.Roy
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