1952-59 Ford Tips on bending and installing brake lines

So I'm finally ready to do my brake lines. Just looking for anyones personal tips our things to keep in mind whilyre doing the job

 

buy a real goodtubing bender.

 

And when you get that good bender take it SLOWWWW and EZ.http://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html I actually like this style it is similar to a Goodwrench one I have,not a bad deal since Eastwood charges 10 X as much for this type lightly oil the tubing and wipe it down before forming.

 

http://www.cl***ictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake_line_basics/index.html Here is a " how to" on bending brake tubing.

 

Hmmm maybe I should have bought a tube bender. I did all mine by hand and the rounded edge of my vise...worked out ok. Not recommended though.

 

I think it really depends on the type of tubing, if you're using copper or aluminum (hopefully not for brakes), you can probably hand bend it, but if you're using steel or stainless steel it would probably be pretty tough.

 

I will be using stainless line. that was a great article for some things to keep in mind when doing the job. im actually kind of excited to sit down, radio on, beer on the bench and relax and lay it all out and make it look factory. the thing i need to remember is take my time!!

 

You might chance your mind on the stainless when you go to put a double flare on the end...............

 

do the lines have to have a double flare end? or is it just better?

 

I tried stainless and had to single flare the ends.... the lines looked great but never did get the leaks stopped and switched to regular steel line with double flares and never had any trouble. I use a hydraulic press type tube flaring tool (expensive... around $400 for a top notch one) well worth the price if you do a lot of break lines. I have two benders from eastwood but still do a lot of the bending by hand unless I need a tight radius, then I use one of the tools. Lube up the lines before bending and sometimes I will "pack" sand in the lines before a tight bend to keep it from kinking, be sure to clean the line after!!!!
many articles written on brake lines.... best advice..... don't get in a hurry and be careful of the flares and don't re-use br*** fittings.... new flare for a new fitting! If you screw up and the line/fitting doesn't seal.... use a new one and re-flare. Keep your fittings straight out of the fitting to help keep leaks out of the fitting, no sharp bends out of the fittings.

I've done many cars and it seems that because I have the tools I do everyone's cars but I have fun and love to do it. Too bad you were not closer to me.

Have fun!!!!

 

have always heard use a coat hanger or similar wire when you get to a complicated/ alot of bends so as to keep track of where you are. could be an old wives tale, or aan old timers trick for beginners. sounded good to me even if not true.

 

You are correct dwaynerz..... I use welding wire and steel coat hangers for my patterns. Thanks for the reminder.

 

I bought an ***ortment of different benders. Harbor Ft ones work well enough. An ***ortment allows you to make different radius bends.

 

Brake lines should always be double flaired, PERIOD. No ifs, ands or ****s.

 

so i got the rear half of my lines run. damn!! stainless is a *****!!! but i got it. now my hands and arms are killing me from cutting and flaring the lines. but i like how they turned out. should i use thread sealant for the fittings? it wouldnt be a big deal to un-bolt them and use some now. let me know guys!!!

 

It's not the threads that do the sealing, but the line itself against the fitting.

 

So I really don't need anything on the threads?

 

no thread sealant is really necessary. I would be very careful threading into couplings and other fittings so you don't cross thread them. it's very easy to do and the fittings you buy at autozone or advance are chinese metal and can cross thread very easily

 

No sealant required. That is why there is a double flare, to have enough metal at the end of the line to be compressed down to the seat in your wheel cylinder or master cylinder with enough force to seal the fluid in.

 

Remember.... If you "seat" the flare end into the br*** fitting and it leaks....DO NOT try to reuse the fitting. If you look into it you will see the compress indents and they will not seal to another flare. They are designed for one time use or they WILL leak. You will hear that people use them without problems again, but they got real lucky.

Brakes are the most important component on your car! They must be ***embled correctly by matching components that work together or your brake effectiveness will be compromised. Get help! I had a friend that totaled his car because he didn't know what he was doing and used junk yard parts that were never matched together.

I get real **** on this subject...... Spend more money on stopping than you would on going! There are many articles written on this subject, spend some time and read them, you will eventually save time and money by doing the job right the first time.

 

Geno, well said.

 

thanks guys for all the insight!! it is much appreciated. i am almost done with the lines now, and i wish i have a power flare tool....damn is stainless a *****!! but it all looks really good. i did make one mistake when i started to flare one piece, i forgot to put the fitting on the line first!! so i just cut the end of and re-flared it, came out nice. so basically now i have all my lines done on the rear end, plus the line that goes up to the front junction. so that means im ready to mount the body on the car!! hopefully one week from now my ch***is will be on a trailer heading down to where the body is!!!!!

 

i did make one mistake when i started to flare one piece, i forgot to put the fitting on the line first!!

hate it when i spend a lot of time getting something looking good, or installing something that turns into a real bear, sit back to admire my success and finding i left something off/out.