Tips on Rattle Can paint job?

I have a 1971 Ford F250 that my 16 year old wants to use as his daily driver. The truck is in excellent condition, and before I bought my '58, it was going to be a project truck. So, in the interest of $$$, we have decided to rattle can the '71 and let him have it. Some of you have some really nice looking rattle can paint jobs and I was wondering if you had any tips for us. I thought I even read somewhere about following up the rattle can with a low nap roller, but I can't find anything. I would appreciate any tips you could offer! Thanks in advance.

 

What kind of finish are you looking for? I'm using "Montana" brand paint on my truck.
http://www.mtncolors.com/
This stuff is mainly used for Graffiti stuff, but I have found that it holds up very well on the bike frames I've used it on. It looks great on My Triumph tank too, even after 10 years.
They have a ton of colors and this stuff is bombproof. It comes out of the can in a low gloss finish and you also have a huge choice of spray nozzles available to you so you can get from a very thin to very wide spray pattern. I haven't tried to wet sand it yet as I have been very happy with the low gloss finish straight from the can. I spray it over rustoleum automotive primer and have not had any problems whatsoever. The only downside is the price. I can get it locally for 10 bucks a can, and it took about 5 cans to do 2 coats on a 36' Dodge cab, Headlight buckets, and grill shell. I'm thinking 2-3 more cans for the bed and Misc. parts. It dries very fast and hard, so It will take some work to sand, but It's definately worth it. This stuff will hold up for years when sprayed on a NYC subway car as graffiti, so I figure in the nicer So. Cal climate it's going to hold up just fine. If you want gloss though, I have no clue.

 

SixDeuces, you say you get at a retail location? Do tell.

 

look for paint that has a "fan" spray nozzle tip. got satin black at Kragen/o'Reilly. do as you would with real paint and put on multiple coats rather than one heavy coat. move can in straight pattern like a real paint job. if you don't park under trees with a lot of sap or bird droppings can look good for quite awhile. at some point should get a real paint job-do it yourself or get a cheapo at chain paint/body shop.
I could not find a retail source for Montana Spray Paint mentioned above-anyone find local or mail order only? would like to tey some.

 

Wow, I've heard about graffiti paint with the wide angle spray caps. I don't mind ten dollars a can. Thank you for the contact info.

 

Work in stages.

Mask off a fender. Sand it down. Spray it with the compressor air nozzle. Wipe it down with paint prep. Give it a good thick coat of spraypaint, watch for drips. Remove the mask before it drys.

Let it dry nice and hard before you start on another section of the pickup.

If you are trying 2-tone, make sure that the paints are compatible. Actually. Don't mess with 2-tone unless you are taking it somewhere for a real paint job.

Good Luck - Post Pix - Happy Sanding!
- Joe

 

I get it at a place called "The art store" on San Diego Ave. Near old town. I know Dick Blick on India street has it also.

 

Rolling it is cool now

 

Blick kicks ass - I get alot of stuff there. Nelson Photo is right across the street, Great people at both stores.

- Joe

 

You can get a cheap paint job for about $200. To do a whole truck you are talking at least 20 cans of spray paint at $3 a can. For the SMALL price difference ($140) and HUGE difference in quality, appearance and resale value of the trunk, it's worth it. You can increase the value of the truck by more than the cost of the cheap paint job making the paint job free. Screw it up with spray cans and you can lower the value of the truck plus the amount you wasted on paint.

There is a technique for doing a decent rattle can paint-job but it takes some skill just like a real paint-job. Also, do you know how hard it is to hold down that little nozzle for an entire paint job???

 

Don't use rattle cans. Buy the paint in a quart can and shoot it with a cheap gun. Most enamals can be thinned with acetone about 3 to 1 and shot without much expertise. Do the prep right and you'll have a nice low buck job that's easy to touch up. Harbor Frieght and Home Depot have cheap guns. Borrow or rent a small compressor. You'll be glad you did.

 

Yeah - and you will still have to prep the damn thing if you do the rattle can job.

Then you can rock the "Painted by Earl" sticker in the back window.

 

This is the answere... Do the math and the out come will be worth the extra $$$$$... Buy a cheap gun, get a compressor and doit.. Then you still have the gun and compressor for future use if need be... Chances are you allready have a compressor anyways... Thats just my 2cents..

 

It is true that there is still the same amount of prep, however, using rattlecans is much less conspicuous and there is also the gun and other supplies you need to spray at home. You're way less likely to have the EPA come down on you for shooting with rattlecans at home. Guess it all depends on where you live.

 

If the EPA knew what I do in an undisclosrd location they'd spank me and take away my birthday forever. Like previously mentioned. Do the prep at home and take it to Earl or maaco. The difference in price is minimal and the quality will be worlds better.

 

The problem with rattle cans is that the paint in them is VERY thin so that it will atomize (spray) through that little nozzle and it is formulated to dry VERY fast. The way the real paintjobs work is that they basically are thick enough to stay on the car while being all still wet over the whole vehicle. The best paintjobs are the ones that put a good wet coat over the whole car so wet it is just short or running off. You can't accomplish that with a spray can.

If you do a solid color like black or white you can do a panel at a time and have it come out decent, but then overspray from panel to panel is an issue.

 

If you don't have a compressor, or can't borrow one, then rent one; same with a gun. Use flat black Bar-B-Que paint, then seal it with clear satin; it'll be a lot better than rattle can, and cheaper too. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Honestly the $1 spongey foam brushes and a can of Rustoleum works pretty well if you're careful. It just has to be 70' or so out, if it's cooler the paint doesn't flow off the brush and goes on too heavy, then runs. Which is a bitch because the runs take forever to cure enough to sand out. But I see how guys get great looking paint jobs that way now that I've done it a couple times, lay about three coats on, sand it back smooth and clear it and the average joe would never know the difference.

 

Sixdeuces,
I have everything you need except the paint. If you need a hand, let me know.

 

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the info. I'll keep you posted.

 

As a hobbyist you are allowed to spray a few gallons a year without breaking the law - not sure what the exact amount is.

- Joe

 

Montana cans! Holy shit those r expensive! I recommend taking ur car to a local school that has a body shop class. If u have any in ur area. The paint will probably fade in a couple of years with the cans and then ull be in the same position but with more coats to strip. Do it right the first time! Theres so many fun things u can do with pearls, candys, flakes..... etc.

 

Theres is a Maaco in Boise wich if im correct is only ten mile from you,you have to prep it your self for the less expensive paint job.The number is 203-376-4992.My dad had his van painted at a Macco here in Maryland 9 years ago .Still looks great! I believe he paid $800 .That was with macco doing the all the prep work.Ive heard you can get it done for as cheap as 500 or less.Being its only ten miles away it would be worth checking out.And most likely unless you do and epoxy based spay bomb its going to chip very easy.hope this helps

 

I also support the saving your money not using cans. For the price of the cans, you can buy a compressor, a gallon or two of Rustoleum or tractor paint and thinner and have a nicer finish (relatively) than you could ever get with cans.

You could paint with a 110V 5 hp oilless and a small capacity gun (I did urethane bc/cc on motorcycle parts) and just stay ahead of the compressor if you are a little careful.

 

we are allowed to shoot a couple of gallons, i'm not calling you out but i live in san diego and they look at me funny when i have more than one classic car parked in my driveway. i don't know the laws out here but california is getting to be pretty bunk. i need to leave. good luck on the paint job though, i just rattled bombed my 55 to keep it from rusting after i stripped it all down, i'm calling it a day until i can have it professionally painted and straightened properly or until i have enough money and time to do myself. tips, mask off the windows, that's all i did.

 

although i did primer it with a spray gun after i initially stripped it all down. but rattled bombed the primer after it started to rust a little in spots. primer might be a color but primer doesn't last forever.

 

Now your 16 years ol have a golden oportunity to
learn how to paint a car the right way
Thats the way i learned to paint cars when i was
about the same age
and the way i made my son learn to paint his first car

Buy him a spraygun and a compressor and let him do it
him self he get his car painted and learn something
Yes it probably more expensive than rattlecans
and probably more expensive than a cheap paintshop.

But he will have a gun and compressor and a new skil
after hes done
the cheap way out is seldom the best way out

 

If you don't already have an air compressor, buy one (every hobbyist needs one anyway). Spray guns can be bought on the cheap. Perfect opportunity for a priceless "Life lesson" to teach your son..don't take short cuts-do the job the right way, the first time. The easy way, is rarely (if ever) the "right way". I have no tips for a "rattle can" paint job, as I would never consider doing one.

 

Tip...DON'T!!! Save your money and do it right the first time,you will money head.