Technical Tire Installation With Lowering Blocks

I searched for suggestions on lowering the rear-end of a 1949 and see numerous solutions using lowering blocks and shorter rear shackles. All the way up to 4-inches of drop.

So, we installed a couple of 2-inch lowering blocks and the shorter rear shackles (another 1-inch). These should match the 3-inch lowered springs in the front.

But, then we tried to install the rear tires...whoops...how you you get them up into the fender well?

With the lowering, we end up with a clearance between the top of the brake hub and the lower fender of about 7-inches. The tires have an 8-inch cross-section.

Is there something we are missing? In reading the other posts about using lowering blocks, nobody mentions any issues with mount the tires/wheels onto the hubs.....

Mark

 

I ***ume that the jack is under the frame, not the springs or differential.

 

Yes, the jack point is the frame and the axle is suspended to its lowest point.

I also do have new leaf springs, so there is no "sag" from old ones to help out.

Mark

 

We are pondering if the fender lip needs to rolled up (usual process on a race car to fit wider tires); but that would only give an additional 1/2 inch. We could also push out the top of the fender well by 1/2-inch. But, neither of these processes seem to be mentioned when even using up to 4-inch lowering blocks.

 

What size tires and wheels are you using and is it the stock rear housing?

 

Yeah, it's one of those things that a lot of kustom guys have to deal with [but not talk about]. If the rolled lips isn't enough then you have to take the block out to get the axle down low enough to get the tire in there. Not doing that on the side of the road very easily .Not having to deal with this is about the only plus that i can see for having air bags .

 

Try jacking up one side of the rear end and putting the tire on the opposite side.

 

I have a '60 Caddy which has very small rear wheel cut -outs, once the fender skirts are removed. With bias-ply tyres, they could be squeezed out of the gap. When I changed to radials, they would not go in any way I tried.
I could get the wheel on only if I used the above method, or deflate the tyre , put it on, (the sidewall had to be squeezed in), and then pump it up. Too much of a P.I.T.A. to do on the side of the road, so I carry a can of goo.

 

Stock 15-inch steel wheels and G78-15 tires.

The original stock tire size is 6.70 x 15 which translate to an F78-15 which still has an 8-inch cross-section. It could also be a 195-15 which has a cross section of 7.7 inches. In any case these stock tire/wheel size will not clear the hub and fender on my 1949 Ford.

But, I am not so concerned about whether I have the "right" tire/wheel, but that I see no discussion about what to expect if you use lowering blocks.

 

That is my concern...what do I have to do if I get a flat on the road?

What annoys me here is that there is NO discussion about the trade offs in using lowering blocks and the suppliers simply do not warn you about the possible issues.

 

I would call that a bad design....

 

We put air shocks on a 49 merc once so we could raise it to adjust the height with people in the back seat. So when need tire off we air it up.

 

Sometimes it's just inconvenient to look cool.

 

Unfortunately that’s a downside of being lowered. I usually deflate the tire, and that gives enough flex to squeeze it in and out. I use a towel wrapped over the white walls to prevent scuffs. As far as a flat on the side of the road, I’d just carry a small 12v compressor to re inflate the spare, or possibly find a donut spare or just keep a narrower tire/wheel as a spare.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

No discussion of **** ups HAHAHAHA

I have a 54 Chevy truck here for major redo because some idiot got it so low you have to pop the top ball joint loose to get a front wheel off. Not to mention it won't steer worth a ****.

How cool are you wanting to be?
If you switched to a 4 link and air bags you can have the low ride and easy tire changes.

If you Remove lower shock mount , does that help get the wheel on and off?
Removing the air from tire help?
Jacking one side help ?
Maybe a combo of all ?

 

I disconnect the shock and put a small bottle jack between the spring and the frame to lower the rear end more. It's still a tight fit but it works..

 

Yep

Ben

 

On my 49 Buick I have to jack the car up on frame and lower the tire pressure to get the rear tires on and off.

 

Don't I know it? It is a curse but I've learned to live with it!

 

I also have to jack up one side at a time in my merc and also use a little scissor jack in between the frame and rear axle to push it down more. Just one extra step if it happens on the side of the rd


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I lower the front and leave the rear alone ....

 

Yup. I've used this method to fit fat tires on my shubox fords and 55 chevys. Just be careful to stop jacking when you've reached the end of your shock travel. If you still can't get the wheel on, unhook the shock and try again.

 

read my signature........

 

Like others have already mentioned, try jacking up just the side you want to remove, possibly remove shock if it's limiting travel, and last resort let air out of tire. It sure can be a pain in the *** to look cool!

 

You need to use 2 floor jacks.
One to first raise the frame, the other to then raise the rear end.

 

I am su****ious of the idea that jacking only one side of the car helps matters. It seems to me that tilts the the top of the tire/wheel outward and may reduce clearance between the quarter panel and tire.

Whereas, it seems raising the car from both sides (at the frame) may maximize the available clearance.
If that is not enough, then removing the shock absorber at the lower attachment would allow the axle to drop further, as has been pointed out in several posts. Maybe I am all wet on this idea, but thought I would throw it out there for consideration.

Ray

 

I know this is a problem, I put a 9" rear end from a pickup narrowed to the same width as the original rear end but the combination of the bigger brakes and 3" lowering blocks make changing a tire a *****. I replaced the truck brakes with smaller brakes from a car, it's better but still tight. I think I am going the air shock route. I should of made the rear end at least an inch shorter on each side.

 

The main problem is that G78 tire may be an equivalent size, but isn't the same physical size as the OEM tire. The early-mid '50s Fords have notoriously small rear wheelwells and getting 'modern' tire sizes to fit can be a real issue. The original tires fitted to these had an aspect ratio of 85 or even 90, making them considerably taller and narrower. The easiest solution will probably be using a 'vintage' tire with the same OEM physical size.

When I put tires on a '56 Ford coupe I used to have, I wanted the same diameter tire as the original 7.10-15 size. As it turned out, the closest size in diameter was a 235/78-15, which barely fit the rear of the otherwise stock car because of the increased width. Even these would s****e occasionally. You'd never get them on if the car was lowered.

 

Air shocks and a reserve air tank in the trunk. BTDT. (51 Fleetline)

 

On my lowered '55 Chevy, I'd disconnect the rear leafspring shackle on that side to lower the axle enough to change the tire.

That's the price you pay to look cool.