Tool preferences?

Hmm, just today i swapped a needle style torque wrench at sears today... just be assertive.

 

Hmm...

Drill press's... I'll do some looking

 

Looks like some nice ones were built in the "old" department by Clausing and Wilton. Extra beefy bases and tables are what ya want!

 

Give me a beefy base and a table and I'm always happy!

 

Forgot about the horsepower though?

 

Now this is an old ratchet... http://www.mjdtools.com/tools/list_047/22870.htm

Way to rich for my blood!

 

I've got Snap-On, Mac, Craftsmen and a dozen or so other brands of hand tools. My favorite set of open end boxes are a set of Pittsburg from Harbor Freight (I picked up some 35 years ago, maybe more), for about 10 bucks.

I’ve got several I heated and bent to fit certain Applications. They have never failed me. I don’t remember ever stripping a good bolt or nut .

Don’t know if they are the same quality or not but was going to order a couple more sets.
Cheap Wrench set

Same goes for there cheap ass air tools too. For 30 to 40 dollar they have lasted as long or longer then my IR’s and Blue points.
cheap assed air tools

And the nice part is you can lose them and never feel bad.

 

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Now this is an old ratchet... http://www.mjdtools.com/tools/list_047/22870.htm


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Rocknrod, That is the EXACT set I have just bought for 30 bucks. I can't believe the price . I had the date wrong. that is the date on my set.

 

30 bucks?

WOAH!

... are they strong?

 

I hear ya on the cheap wrench topic... my only beef is that htey are made oversea's... I like buying local... used... and American before buying stuff from over there

 

Everything (especially ratchets and wrenches) with plastic or rubber on it makes My sick.

 

I mean.......makes Me sick.

 

Ya... plastic directional changer doohickey ma-bobs... and the handles that feel like they are about to let go...

 

Tools, this is a topic we’ve burned before. But, assuming that you don’t own any tools, and want to stock up for the sort of work that a homebuilt hot rod requires, here’s my list. Note that for the most part I’m recommending purchasing new stuff. If you’ve got work to do, hunting around pawn shops, swap meets and such takes too long. If you do find a decent tool purchase on the used market, then sell the stuff you’ve already bought at the next swap meet. I’m gonna recommend Ebay for a few specialist tools that are really expensive to buy new, but seem to have a regular presence on Ebay for less.

Hand tools. I’m gonna assume you’ve got a Sears to purchase Craftsman, web access and a phone to purchase Snap-On, a local jobshop to purchase inexpensive import tools, and a mega hardware store for other stuff.

General rule about Craftsman: Buy the pro Craftsman stuff instead of the garden-variety stuff. The exception is the sockets, go ahead and buy a multipiece set for the sockets. Expect to upgrade the rachets though.

Craftsman wrenches up to 1 inch combo
Craftsman wrenches – odds and ends to mutilate for custom tools
Cheap offshore-swap meet wrenches from 1 inch to 2+ inches

Craftsman or Snap-On or Bluepoint sockets get 6 pt short and deep 3/8 and ½ drive then fill in the ¼ drive and 12 pt stuff. Get an assortment of swivels, extensions, thumbwheels, etc…

Vintage Snap-On torque wrench off Ebay. Get it recalibrated by the local Snap-On guy. Make sure that you are buying one in the torque range you need.

Breaker bars and rachets? Buy TWO Craftsman 3/8 and ½ drive rachets and TWO ½ drive breaker bars. You’ll break one; the other is backup for late Sunday evening. Buy the combo sets to save cash, then fill in the holes as needed.

Snap-On screwdrivers. Craftsman pro series is a second best. Craftsman red and blue drivers are good for hospital visits or for use as a chisel-punch. Get two each of the medium size, and an assortment of the other sizes.

Pliers? Yes – Needlepoint and regular. Maybe a small set of each too. I really like Snap-On pliers, but you can get away with quality hardware variety or Craftsman.

Magnets from speakers and on extension rods from cheapo tool store.
Metal rulers from drafting supply. Framing square from hardware store. Carpenter squares, big ones, from hardware store. Razor blades, china markers, soapstone, pencils, and tape from art supply and hardware store.

Hammers – could fill pages on this tool alone. Get a decent hardware store ball-peen hammer for use with punches. Get a hand sledge, a tap hammer, and a few different mallets (dead blow, rawhide, rubber) as needed from the hardware store. I don’t think Craftsman will warrantee hammers and that’s the only benefit from buying from Sears.

Hacksaw and blades – get the best one you can from the cheap tool store. Should cost much more that you thought you’d spend on a hacksaw.

Punches from cheap stool store. Vice-Grip pliers from cheap tool store. Get two that are big enough to use as clamps, and two that are general pliers size. Get two 6 inch “C” clamps while you’re there.

Other stuff like side cutters, specialized wiring tools, picks, brushes, prybars, and such – you’ll have to decide how much you use them and purchase them accordingly.

Pullers – at a minimum you’ll need a drum puller. Get the wide legged one off ebay. Get other pullers from the cheap-tool store.


Hand Power Tools

#1 A drill motor. Get something decent. A mid range DeWalt, or a good Milwaukee. If you can afford two, get an expensive one with a ½ inch chuck and a cheap one with a smaller chuck. Best price is probably from the mega-hardware store. Get a metal drill index from the cheap tool store. Get the best carbide drill bits you can afford from the mega-hardware store. If you find yourself doing a lot of drilling and going through drill bits, get a plastic box with lots of little drawers and stock it with bits from one of the professional tool shops like MSC. If you’re gonna buy a lot of bits, get high-speed steel bits and a sharpener.

Taps go with a drill. No need to buy them unless you’ve got a drill. Buy a complete but cheap set with a lot of sizes. Then, replace the stuff you use a lot with better quality taps from the mega-hardware or cheap-tool store. Dies? I’ve used so few that if I hadn’t bought a huge quality die set a few years ago; I’d buy them piecemeal as needed from the mega-hardware store.

If you ever plan on using safety wire, go ahead a buy a drilling jig from an online specialty store and safety wire pliers off ebay. Lots of used ones available cheap.

#2 A Jigsaw. I like the $100 Bosch, but others have their favorites. Again, the best place to buy it is either online, or at the mega-hardware store. Favorite blades – the Bosch Progressor blades. I use the X123 blades. Superior life, good cut and not too expensive. You can buy the blades in bulk on Ebay, or in smaller packages at the mega-hardware store.

#3 4-inch grinder. Go ahead and buy a Milwaukee or Makita. Get the 90 degree second handle. Get cutting blades, grinding wheels, sanding discs, etc… and experiment with what works for you. I’ve got three so I don’t have to swap wheels as much. If you can spend a little more, get a 6 inch instead.

Shop Tools

Welder. I can’t imagine building a traditional rod without it. You might be able to build one out of the So-Cal catalog with only hand tools, but if you really want to be the builder, buy and learn how to use a welder. Personal favorite for beginning chassis builders? Miller EconoTig! Used welders aren’t discounted enough for the risk so go ahead and bite the bullet and fork over the $1200 for a setup with a bottle and regulators. Shop online for this. Lots of discount shops post Ebay auctions to funnel traffic to their websites. After that, buy the bottle and supplies at a local welding supply.

If you’re on a tight budget, get a modern MIG welder. If you’re buying cheap one, get a new machine. I personally think that MIGs are for body repair and you should stick with TIGs for chassis work, but others are quite happy building frames with MIG welders.

Buffing wheels, bench grinders, lathes, etc….buy as needed and your experience requires.

Toolboxes – get a used, older and smaller Snap-On rollaround. Then get a pair of smaller canvas tool bags too.

Workbench with a real vice.

Oxy-Acetylene setup with a cutting tip, a rosebud, and if you’re handy, get a Dillon welding torch too. If you don’t plan on ever welding with it, use Propylene instead of Acetylene, it’s cheaper and much much hotter.

There are so many more tools that I use on a regular basis - like the angle finder and like the small Snap-On slip pliers that seem to live in my pocket and I haven't even touched on the safety equipment - but that's a start.

 

WOAH!

Thankyou... Thankyou... THANKYOU modernbeat!

I think you should write a flip book an publish it... that was great reading for me... especially with the buying what an how side.

The safety equipment you were just getting into? What all is involved there? I have a fire extinguisher and a set of safety goggles... thats about it. Anything beyond that necessary?

I'll need to pickup some breaker bars... I have a cheap CHEAP stanley one... bent the thing. That and stop by the scrap yard an grab some pipe.

I'll be the first to ask for a how to of organizing a garage space! I dont think I have room for that list on my wall!

 

that's a hell of a list there modernbeat,but i dunno about buying snap-on pliers,most cases channellocks are just as good or better/cheaper.klien is good too.i also don't think you put enough emphasis on the workbench/vise part.buy the biggest and heaviest vise you can afford,american made only,and some soft jaws.build the workbench so the top of the vise is up to the level of your elbow.i know there arwen't a lot of guys who use hacksaws and files anymore,but when you do it makes it all worth it-george

 

Holy poo modernbeat...that is quite the set of guidelines...i am gonna keep it, and cross off what i got and what i need...saving up for a nice welder now...

 

Amen to the elbow hight workbenchs and vices!

 

Safety equipment.

First – forget goggles for eye protection. Get one of those full-face masks. You’ll be surprised at how much better it is. You can get closer to your work without crap going up your nose, cutting your lips, or burning your beard.

Gloves. Some hate them, some love them. I like women, and women like my clean soft hands, so I use gloves. I buy these cheap cotton gloves with largish rubber bumps on them from a cheap-tool store. Cost me $9 for twelve pair. They aren’t left-right oriented, so I can wear out one side, then put it on the other hand and wear out the back. A pack used to last me a couple months when I was busy.

Buy some of those white calfskin gloves with super long cuffs for welding. Don’t use them for anything but welding. Make sure they fit tight enough to not wad up around your hand, but loose enough that you can assume the position you like for holding the torch. Remember that you can stretch them a little, but you can’t make them shrink worth a damn.

Buy some mega thick long gloves for cutting and bending stuff. Don’t ask, just do it.

Buy a box of nitril gloves from harbor freight for use with super greasy junk or solvent cleanup.

Use hand lotion on your hands BEFORE you start working. Makes cleanup a lot easier.

When you’re cutting, welding, grinding or doing anything that involves heat or fast moving stuff, wear a cap that contains your hair and covers your scalp. That means a leather, cotton or wool cap, not a foam rubber and plastic trucker cap. Buy a cheapo one from the welding supply store if you can’s scrounge one up.

Cotton or leather welders jacket. I bought an old Eddie Bauer rip-off of a Carhart coat and ripped the too-warm lining out of it. I use it for welding and grinding. I’ve already got too many scars on my hands and forearms to suffer any more. Remember, I gotta stay good looking if I’m ever gonna find another wife. Along with that I wear Levi’s or Carhart pants when doing anything but assembly.

Real shoes. That means no plastic sneakers. I suppose cotton Chucks are OK, but I wear worn out cowboy boots or heavy but not-steel toe jump boots depending on the amount of time I expect to be kneeling. I try not to wear my engineer boots in the shop because the grease and filings are hard to clean out of the treads.

Get some ear protection. I love music. Repeat for those that are hard of hearing, I love music. I wanna be able to enjoy it when I’m so old I can’t enjoy anything else. I wear the headphone – shooting range style ear protection so I can whip it off when I’m done making noise. I don’t like the little squishy foam ear plugs unless I’m at the races or on a motorcycle but some folks like those better than the heavy ear protection.

Breathing stuff. I tend to only wear a dust mask if I’m making dust. That means sanding or grinding, but not always when I’m grinding. Charcoal mask when I’m dealing with vapors other than the occasional lacquer thinner cleanup. My pal who welds all day wears a charcoal mask when welding because of the fumes. I don’t.

Welding shields: get a good one on the advice of your welding supplier. Replace the dark lens every year. Welding aluminum? Get one of the high-buck blue lenses, otherwise plan on eye surgery or worse. Wear long sleeves and a collar when welding or suffer sunburn on your arms and neck.

Yeah, that means that when I’m grinding, I’m wearing a canvas coat, a cotton goofy-hat, a plastic face shield, large ear muffs, rubber cleated cotton gloves and cowboy boots that should have been retired a few years ago. So what. I wear a helmet on a motorcycle too. It goes with the territory.

 

... I'm making a list... checking it twice!

Ever penny I'm gonna make for the next couple months is gonna go towards the garage.

Why no steel toes? I do see how the lack of laces could be a BLESSING in the garage. Ear muffs... GREAT call on that. I'll pickup a pair.

What brand boots ya like? Gotta have some to wear out the first time around... I dont have a bike... yet... Trying to save some room in a corner for one

What do you guys do for heat in a garage? House was built in '39... no insulation ANYWHERE in the garage. Guess I should have thought a little harder about redoing it this past summer. I get lazy when it comes to stuff that doesnt need to be done right away

What do you guys do for a compressed air tool collection? I'll have to get the power reworked... but picked up a 2131A IR impact awhile back

 

I've got one other question of sorts... Those little vibration tach's... do they work on anything? Or just single cylinder thumpers?

 

I've always used Craftsman. They're reasonably priced and the new polished professional series is actually pretty good. It's worth spending the extra money on. I hate cleaning unpolished cast tools. It's a pain in the ass.

Also have some Snap On, Proto, and Williams. I've found that Williams makes pretty damn good sockets, but they're kind of hard to find. I was pleased with my Snap on ratchet until I striped the teeth on it, then had it repaired, then striped the teeth again, then had it repaird, then striped the teeth again. Now it sits in my tool chest collecting dust.

 

I really haven't liked the snap-on ratchets since they started putting the palstic then the foam handles on them. My current favorite ratchet is a Cornwell. Seems to be holding up pretty good.

As for the heat question. I've got a decent sized propane heater in the shop, not really enough to heat the whole place, but enough to take the chill out. You can usually get one at Northern Tools or Agri-Supply pretty cheap.

Air Tools. The good ones will last a long time, but only if they are cared for. I lube mine regularly w/ Marvel Mystery Oil before use. A couple of drops straight into the hose end. This has also helped some of the cheap ones last a really long time.

 

Heat?

My pappy always said the heat's in the tools, son! Get to work.

 

You can never have enuff jack stands. I bought my first set new, and the wife brings a set home every other time she comes back from a yard sale.

 

I hear ya... Been doing to it for 2 years out there in the middle of winter... I need to be able to paint and have it stick!

 

A while ago my dad busted one of his Craftsman ratchets. He was pissed. I said, don't worry about it, it's got a lifetime warranty. He's says, yeah, but I bought this one in 1956.

I doubt my mom or my wife could understand us getting nostalgic over our tools.

 

... One with the tools

What did he break? Sometimes you can get a rebuild kit for em

 

re: steel toe boots.

I've got nothing against steel toes, it's just that when I bought the jump boots from some surplus outfit I THOUGHT they were steel toes - but found out later, as my toes were being squashed, that they weren't. They've just got umpteen layers of stiff leather on the toe.

So, they are comfortable when I have to be on my knees in the garage, but I always have to remind myself that they aren't steel toes.

FWIW, I made that list of tools not of what I've got, but if I lost it all because of a flood or fire, that's how I would buy it back.

 

That makes sense...

What do you guys do for insurance coverage on these things?

Yall must have a ton sunk into em...