I've recently installed a new Blueprint 383 and bolted up to a TCI TH350 in my 67 Camaro. With the torque converter fully seated in the transmission I have 1/4" gap between the flexplate and converter mounting pads. When I push the converter into the crank it doesn't fully meet the flexplate and I still have about 35 thou gap. Should I run with a 1/8" shim? Will that allow enough movent and still be engaged in the transmission enough? I really don't want to don't destroy either the motor or transmission.
I've found a similar problem on a mid 80s Chevy pickup when replacing a cracked flex plate, installed a new flex plate then slid the converter up and had about the same gap, Seeing the new plate bend to meet the converter while tightening the bolts, figured out the nose of the converter is up tight on the crank causing the gap Most likely the cause of the factory flex plate cracking after only 30.000 miles on this truck. Since then, I like to put in equal hardened washers between the converter mounting pads and flex plate to get about 1/8 gap when the converter is fully seated, a 1/8-inch hardened washer would work well on your set up Note: Finding the cracked flex plate noise drove me nuts, sounded just like a bad lifter at idle, made a tick when turning, took a long time to figure out
I have more faith in the Hambers than aftermarket Tech Support. The OEM flexplate on my FE had a seperate ring that all the bolts go through. I bought an aftermarket flexplate and called the Tech Line to see if I needed to use the ring on their flexplate. I knew I was in trouble when the “Tech Support “ guy did know what a FE Ford was. Needless to say, he had idea if I needed the ring or not. I returned the flexplate.
Heck I once had a converter with adjustable noses, unscrew it off the end and screw another shorter one on, this thing stalled about 5 grand, just a bit much for the street.
While I understand that the brain trust here is phenomenal, one good reason to contact the maker is to log an issue. Yes, many will hire cue card readers not fully experienced product support, but if a problem occurs, there is a record of trying to resolve it. You have a better than zero chance of getting help or having them cover costs if they are made aware of the issue. If things go sideways and you haven't called, it's on you.
If the converter were made for a mid mount plate, it would be too long, not too short. If you have a midplate between the engine and transmission, then that could be a problem...but it seems doubtful to me. How far can a converter be pulled out of the transmission and still engage the pump teeth fully? Pretty far, actually.
@squirrel true! I imagine the concern is pulling the flexplate up tight to the converter, flexing it at each bolt. The nose seems to be not allowing them to be flush without this. It could be checked by pulling things apart, but OP was hoping for a quick, experienced answer. A friend had an early hemi adapted to a 727. He put the flexplate in backwards and it cost him a front pump. Again, pics are worth a thousand words.
As Op describes Is Not a mid plate converter, there is a.035 tho gap , Between flex pad & converter leg, Is not that Critical, To correct the Op Would need to drop Trains , look @ pocket on crank & nose of converter, Paint , burr ?? Or use .030 tho shim washer .. .005 tho of pull is not uncommon, The post & pic that @swade41 is for a mid & non mid Application
The quick experienced answer would be to pull it apart and see why the convertor is not going flush against the flex plate.
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