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Technical torque tube seal project

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by PINEAPPLE, Feb 19, 2023.

  1. PINEAPPLE
    Joined: Aug 26, 2012
    Posts: 474

    PINEAPPLE
    Member

    I know this has been discussed before and several solutions have been executed, but I thought I would share this procedure in case anyone wants to use this idea. My tube runs downhill and the oil migrates into the tube through the pinion bearings and I was worried that I would destroy my fresh rear axle build. I have included mcmaster carr part numbers if anyone can use them. Pulled the rear end, cut the tube and made a fixture to bolt the tube rear to. I envisioned putting the fixture in my lathe to bore out the tube a bit for the seal housing. Well much to my surprise the tube bore was not concentric to the bolt circle on the flange, in addditon the tube was not really round. I bolted the cut tube back on the rear end and measured the tube ID to coupler around the circle and found out that it is out of concentricity by .035 or so, maybe more. Put the cut tube back on the fixture, then on the mill, indicated the bore best I could and bored it to clean up to a depth that would place my seal housing over the coupler. I turned the coupler down to 1.375 on the driveshaft side and polished it up. The seal housing is just some scrap aluminum that I turned to fit the new tube ID and the lip seal. Knowing that the seal is going to be deflected a bit on one side, I got the rotary seal that slips over the coupler, rides in front of the stationary lip seal and acts kind of like an expeller while driving. Installed the seal housing in the tube, light press fit and three 10-24 set screws in from the outside 120 degrees apart. I bolted the cut tube back on to check the deflection of the seal on the coupler, and it is deflected, however I could not slide a .001 feeler gage through any part of it. I hoped and prayed that the combo of seals and the weight of the oil would hold off running forward. I decided to install an npt plug at the front of the tube to monitor the migrating oil. Welded it all back together and threw it back in the car. I am pleased to report that it is working quite well. See the photo of the bone dry npt plug after some spirited driving. Check out the photos and use the part numbers if you need. Thanks for listening to me ramble.
    Matt

    Spring-Loaded Rotary Shaft Seal
    with Wiper Lip, for 1-3/8" Shaft Diameter, 1.375" ID x 2" OD
    5154T43

    Shaft-Mounted Rotary Seal
    for 1-3/8" Shaft Diameter
    9562K82




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  2. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 75

    Willows
    Member

    NICE work Matt, simple cheap solution for a real problem. I suspect people encounter this without realizing. Thanks for sharing! A
     
    PINEAPPLE likes this.
  3. PINEAPPLE
    Joined: Aug 26, 2012
    Posts: 474

    PINEAPPLE
    Member

    @Willows Thanks Alan, twas a fun little project. Even more so that it worked!
     
  4. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

  5. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,305

    19Fordy
    Member

    PINEAPPLE likes this.
  6. PINEAPPLE
    Joined: Aug 26, 2012
    Posts: 474

    PINEAPPLE
    Member

    Thats a cool part! I'm guessing the holes on the flange have enough clearance to center the bore nicely before final tightening up. My bolt circle was way out of concentricity with the tube bore. Thanks for the reply.
    Matt
     

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