A cast crank will have a thin separating line. A forged crank will have a separating line wider than 1/4". Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I like being a nerd, damnit!!
Your 327 crank has a number forged into it on one of the counterweights. If you get down to the San Fernando Valley & want to swap into a 4 bolt 350 block just PM me & I'll send you my shop info. No money just a swap. Van
There will be a casting number and a date code on the crank. Mic it to find out the EXACT size of each journal. If I was closer I would also trade you two 350's for that 327! Chinese 383 cranks are C H E A P but I just can't bring myself to run one. peace
Bummed why ???? There was a guy who was "totally bummed" that his shoes hurt his feet until he spoke to this man who didn't have shoes. He was "totally bummed until he spoke to that man with no feet"
He was "totally bummed until he spoke to a man whose rust free project was dropped from 5 ft. up and the right side was ruined." Sorry, I had to.
Sounds like you got a better deal than you thought....A 327 is a hell of alot better engine than a 350......."Some guys would still kick if you hung them with a new rope"
Me too. 350's are all over the place but a good 327 is getting hard to find. Plus, there is the cool factor of saying you have a 327. To bad you aren't closer, I have a very nice 350 I would trade you in a heartbeat. Don
Please don't take this the wrong way, but after the claimed hours over a two week period you should have a pretty good grasp of what these guys are talking about without further explanation. I'm betting you've learned more VALUABLE info here than in those two weeks. Look, a 383 is essentially a 350 block with a 400 crank, some boring and possibly relieving. It's not magic, and it works pretty well. However, it will run hot, be tempermental, and is NOT. A good choice for a reliable street engine. You will learn to curse red lights, slow traffic, construction zones, etc. Build and cherish that 327. It's a great engine, and believe me, 9.5:1 compression with the right heads, carb and intake will make you giggle like a school girl in that Stude. Build it for 350 horse and you'll never regret it. You have no business building a 500 horse street terror as your first project, its irresponsible and dangerous.
Nope, a 383 is only a .030 standard rebuild type overbore, there is NO reason it'd overheat or be a pain in the ass. Now in my opinion, they have a shitty bore to stroke ratio, more like a 'truck' engine.... Why not stick all that stuff in the 327 block?? they are the same basic engine, you may need some serious clearancing to fit the counterweights and will need to cut the main journals smaller by .100 but otherwise it should work, ive seen articals on building 450+ inch sbc's from 283's. Ask on here how much counterweight clearancing it'll take first but it should work...
Just go out and buy a 350 and hang on to the 327. As an example, I have a running 350 in my shed. Its a 4 bolt main engine with about 80 K miles on it , bought it for $300.
Mid '60s like in '68 or newer was a large journal block and both the 327 and the 350 have the same stock bore. The only real difference between a large journal 327 and a 350 is the crank. A 4.030 327 and a 4.030 350 are both stock motor bored .030.
Aman!!!... Same here!! I'm still learning more about them... That's why I joined the H.A.M.B. I love this place!
I just got my hands on a 65 327 and building it and swaping the 350 out of my truck for it! Like Squirel said earlier, it just sounds better to say 327 haha. Seriously I dont know much, I am also learning but I would say build that 327 and I bet you'll be happy.
The 307 cast crank is 3.25 stroke; the same as the 327 large journal. I did this in a 2 bolt block years ago and it worked well.
Never heard this before. Why should it be? Standard min. overbore, crank with GM stroke specs from 400ci. motor. Why should that be tempermental or overheat?
DHeep, it looks like you may have learned already that a lot of people on here comment on threads without reading much of the thread. That is why you get some of the same comments repeated and why some seem to have missed information given. Building of the 327 is not that much different than building the 383. Just build it and forget the HP projections that your step father gave. They would never have been verified anyway. A lot of people spout numbers with no way to know if they are even close. Get shopping for heads, intake and all the other missing parts! ~Alden
When I had my shop, there was a plethora of Chevy gurus that would drop in...some of them lived in apartments, drove Hondas or VWs. But they knew more about what I was doing than I did. (just ask 'em) These guys would talk head casting numbers, flow bench numbers, and all the new hot setups. They were gettin' 700 HP out of 377" 400 blocks with 350 cranks, and this was just in conversation! "Yeah...350 crank, Keith Black slugs, that's 250 more right there...add the Double Hump heads, hey! Automatic 100 HP, plus the intake...Hi Rise, that's 150 right there!" If my Dad had left me a nice little Stoody P/U and a 327 when he passed, I'd use the best RX known for that 327, the info is available. Better performance than you think. Ignore the Pro Touring suggestions. Some of these guys just know too much.
Please believe me when I say I have total empathy for your OT problem. This guys complaining about getting a free 327 instead of a 500 hp 383 is kind of lame. The number of TRUE 500 horse engines/cars is in reality very small. NDeep should just built the 327 and if it aint enough throw a Paxton, Vortech or Procharger on it for that extra boost. Wasn't hittin' hard, just useing the "feet" analogy to illustrate there is always some one worse off than you are. If you want a turn, I still drive my 1987, 4 door Ford Tempo. Paints starting to flake off. Suspension creaks real bad. I can take it.
383s as a rule when built properly are a dependable and torquey engine. I personally like others think that they are a truck engine, but I have seen some that really scream. Now here is the rub, a shop sells you a 327 that they have gone though and it is a good engine, except they told you that it is a 383. Do you just run it and be happy that you have a 327 or do you tear it down for inspection? Now it gets even better you did the right thing, you tore it down for inspection and it is trash. Do you lick your wounds or do you take the boxes of parts back to the shop and demand your money back while inserting it one piece at a time where the sun doesn't shine for the machinist to remember you by? I'll help ya. Look for a PM.
Some guys have all the luck. I guess I can understand your disappointment a little bit, just because it wasn't what you expected. But, if I inherited a 350 and then found out it was a 327 I would have thought the heavens had opened up and blessed me. Hallelujah! The holy grail right under my nose. There is nothing like a screaming 327 in my book.
Sell the 327 parts to someone that really wants them. Then buy the parts you want. 327 parts are much harder to find, than 350.
327's are hard running, high winding engines, that will take a lot of abuse. Its the only small block I run, and there is nothing like the sound it makes when you edge the tach past 6500 rpm. Mine runs to 7200 all day long, in a 55 Studebaker, and I I could care less about numbers. It is basically a rubbed on 64 vette 340 horse motor, except it is not a true vette block. got 2 more in the barn, waiting.
All 327's are Vette motors... The only thing different is the numbers stamped on the right front deck..
The Jalopy Journal
