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Projects Toymaker's Twin Engine Dragster Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Toymaker, Nov 22, 2010.

  1. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    I'm not really to worried about any problems, I believe the Twin's drive train won't be stressed much with it's only performances beeing made at Eagle Field which has NO Traction:D
    A spool may be installed in the future if I do decide to go "On Tour":rolleyes:
     
  2. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Man I'm getting tired of working on the bellhousings, the cutting fitting and welding seemed to not end, but I can finally say it's done! The Engine Plate is trimmed, the LH bellhousing has the 1/4" Steel Plate fitted and welded and now I just need to pick up the Clutch, TO brg and I can put it all together and set the engines back in the Chassis for the final time (HOPE) before Oct 8th.
    I had thought about welding the 2 Bellhousings together but the fit is real good so I leaving them seperate..................
    Before welding
    [​IMG]
    After Welding
    [​IMG]
    I can say I figured a slick way to connect the Clutch pedal to the Fork during all of this, I'll let pictures tell the story when I tackle that:D Rocky
     
  3. Looking good Roc, does the clutch fork have anything to do with the hammer????
     
  4. 296moon
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 654

    296moon
    Member
    from england

    Neat toyman, cant wait for the vid!
     
  5. Looks good Rocky! You gonna use some sort of rocker or bell crank on the clutch fork?
     
  6. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,861

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Very neat project. You may want to rethink the mini spool. They are a dirt track bandaid of sorts and just don't hold up well on asphalt. Most nitro dragsters ran open rears well into the 70s. I think you be safer with a open rear, or even a limited slip, ILO the mini spool.
     
  7. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Hopefully no Hammers will be involved:D, I'm gonna mount the Clutch pedal to the back of the LH Bellhousing working as a bellcrank.
     
  8. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,526

    Kenneth S
    Member

  9. jipp
    Joined: Jun 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,107

    jipp
    Member

    iv always wonder how they did this.. it looks so cool.. and im not sure thee is any real benefit over one bad ass engine ( is there? ).. but cool factor is off the chart so worth doing it just for the guys in the stan to cheer ya on.. ROCK ON.
    chris.
     
  10. Tom S. in Tn.
    Joined: Jan 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,108

    Tom S. in Tn.
    Member

    I got into this discussion on another dragster construction thread, and I swear I thought there used to be a safety requirement specification in the rule book about this part, but for the life of me, I can not find it anywhere any more.
    I recall thickness and dimension specifications and a little generic drawing to accompany it. I still have old NHRA rule books back to 69' but not one darn word anywhere.
    Am I having another one of those recall moments?? Second thought...... don't answer that, but if you recall anything relating to this please enlighten me.
    Tom S.in Tn.
     
  11. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,546

    Old6rodder
    Member
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    I don't recall it ever being mandated (it was certainly done). I believe recommendations and specs were offered from time to time, from many sources, but I don't think it was ever codified.
    I wouldn't swear to that though.

    Personally, I'd have one .......... and it'd be my most careful work.
    Cowardice is an attractive idea in some areas. :D
     
  12. KING CHASSIS
    Joined: Aug 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,864

    KING CHASSIS
    Member

    Go Rocky , Go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  13. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    I believe your right Chris about the one Bad Ass engine, but the challenge and the Cool Factor said I had to do it!

    I actually won't be straddling (SP?) the 3rd member as it is off to my RH, I appreciate everyones concern and have noted it.
     
  14. Tom S. in Tn.
    Joined: Jan 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,108

    Tom S. in Tn.
    Member

    I guess I'll have to take a back seat on this one and chalk it up to old age or something.

    One thing though; Was the left block trimmed or the starter pad on the right block where the lower bellhousing bolts holes appear shared in the center ? I recall you wrote way back when you trimmed them but not which one. Not like I'll ever build one of these, but does it matter which gets trimmed?
    Tom S.
     
  15. Hey Roc did you weld both sides if the left scattershield, inside also, sure hope so......Carl
     
  16. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Tom, I have a '66 AHRA Rule Book I'll check for ya and hopefully redeem your memory:D. The starter pad on the LH engine was cut off and yep it looks like they would of shared the bolt hole.

    They will be welded inside and out before final install, I wanted lee to tig the inside to minimize warpage but he's out of town so I'll zip it myself.
     
  17. Hell if you were closer I would do it for you............
     
  18. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    I should learn myself but..............................
     
  19. bobcall
    Joined: Feb 26, 2009
    Posts: 3

    bobcall
    Member
    from Tulsa

    Back in about 1960 there was a full bodied twin Chevy dragster, out of Lubbock Texas I believe, called Too Much that used the meshed flywheels. Ran pretty good.
     
  20. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,432

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Do it Rocky...How difficult could it be?
     
  21. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    I wonder if a Model Kit I have was made of that, hmmmmmmmmm.

    I dunno Tom, I'm pretty stubborn and it took me forever to put down the stick welder for the Mig;)

    Well today was a good day, I picked up the clutch plate and T-O Brg (Ford Trans to Chevy Bellhousing and Fork), all the bolts I thought I needed (damn if I didn't forget a few), and BOOM my axles arrived. I would of had the Bellhousings on if I hadn't of loaned my Torque wrench out and been able to find Clutch Cover bolts in this town, but tomorrow is another day and the engines should be back in place by Sunday night. I did get the "Drop Out" ready to install and played with the parts like it was Christmas:D
    [​IMG]
     
  22. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,432

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    OOH!! PRETTY STUFF!! :D

    Don't worry about learning TIG, it's not that hard. Hell, if Lee can do it you can too. Grab a couple pieces of scrap and play with it. If you can weld in one method, you can weld in the others, all it take is a little practice to get the feel of it.
     
  23. Yea Roc start a puddle and then just go with the flow can't miss it, Miller has a few good video's on their site and it will really help to watch them. Besides the weld on the inside won't be seen by anybody but you and a good place to learn .......
     
  24. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    I wanna thank TruckJim for his help on my project. Jim donated 2 327 Marine engines that came out of a boat as a pair and one is reverse rotation which will finally answer the question about any difference in oiling between the 2. Thanks again Jim the engines are sweet!
    [​IMG]
    The Twin has the engines back in place for the final time (I hope) before Oct 8th, it doesn't look any different but trust me it is with all the welding and bellhousings done. I need to see about a different TO bearing (longer) before the trans can go in, then a U-Joint shield and anti rotation bracket and the rear can go go in!
    [​IMG]
     
  25. Model A Mark
    Joined: Apr 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,319

    Model A Mark
    Member
    from dallas
    1. Holley 94 Group

    this is such a good thread rocky, iv been subscribed since you started ,
    you said the twin has the engines back in for the final time, are you painting every thing ?
     
  26. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Rocky, Looks like you are getting your build close to the finish. Will try to be there in Oct !

    Dave
     
  27. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    HaHaHa, no, they are in for the final time to make the Oct event then the Twin will come apart for detail.

    Thanks Dave!
     
  28. DamnYankeesKustoms
    Joined: Jan 14, 2010
    Posts: 297

    DamnYankeesKustoms
    Member

    How did you control the heat from warping the bell housing?
     
  29. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    When welding the outside it was bolted to the engine, I welded the inside with a single straight pass of the Mig. Since there is no alignment issues the Dowel holes have been opened a little allowing easier installation.
     
  30. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    The project marches on! After modifying the clutch fork for what I think will be a Cable system I installed the trans, rearend, and rebuilt the brakes, All went pretty smooth except the axle taper hit the side of the carrier and had to be sanded down abit.
    With all that done it was time to start on the Brake & Clutch Controls, and Steering.
    Finished Clutch Fork..........
    [​IMG]
    Dug around in my junk and found a couple of pieces that not only look cool but will save me some fab time:D The brake handle was complete and I think out of my sons 48 Ford F-1 or ???? Photos were taken after the mods began.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    After some mocking up I used a piece of the original brake handle linkage for a mounting tab and welded it to the Rear end housing.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Part of mocking up the handle was having it in alignment with the Master cyl.......
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The pushrod will be 3/8" rd bar "Sleeved" with tubing, soon as I get the materials.
    The Steering had me thinking for a while and I've concluded I need a Crossmember to mount my VW box to. Extending the shafts had me puzzled as I don't really like welding directly to the dox shafts. So far I'v modified the factory coupler to accept a 3/4 Tube about 1/4" before welding. I'm still working on the crossshaft attachment:confused:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Don't seem like much but now I have some ideas to follow thru with and we should be good for Oct. 8th!
     

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