I got a 4x4 truck thats about 4 differant colors,been thinking about painting it with tractor paint,if it turns out ok maybe do my hotrod.Any of you ever used this?
I used the semi-gloss black with hardner on the frame for my 39 ford. Covered well and tough as hell. Seemed to take a long time to dry, so keep that in mind.
Good question. Thanks for askin'...I've been wonderin' about this also. Our tractor supply store has OBP brand (Our Best Paint) it's made by Valspar. Have fun,Smokey
Once it fully cures it's tough stuff, it is for tractors after all. However, doesn't seem to have the color depth or shine of real automotive paint, slightly less resistance to fade, and sprays kinda poorly. On the plus side tractor paint sticks to anything. Over the years I've used various brands for an old dirt bike resto, air compressor repaint, etc. Currently trying to find time to spray my car trailer Allis chalmers orange before the weather turns cold. Wouldn't recommend it for a hot rod, would recommend it for an actively wheeled 4x4. For the hot rod, just spend a couple hundred more and get cheap automotive enamel. Your results will show it.
Tractor paint is for tractors.... if you ever want a decent paint job on either vehicle don't do it. You'll need to strip it completely off...
I used Duplicolor premix for spray guns for my first paint job. I was pleasantly surprised since i had never painted before. It said pour in the gun , add nothing, it is ready to go. They were right. It flows out great after application and went on with no runs. Gun was the cheapest I could buy $30 and I have never tried before, They get my vote because it works. I still have the can and the number.There is a photo on another thread or on my website listed below. I recommend it for someone like me who is not a painter because it worked.
Tractor Supply pain is best if used with their activator/hardener which makes it dry quicker,glossier and more scratch resistant. Great for chassis,but otherwise a cheap paint.
I used Rust-o-leum to paint my truck. I went to an automotive paint supply store. i said I was looking for basic cheap black and that I needed primer, thinner, paint, and reducer. By the time I was done the total came to a little over $500.00. Totally blew my mind! My truck is not even worth that! I't just my shop truck I wanted to re-do. So a few weeks later I was in Home Depot looking for some home stuff when I walked through the paint isle and saw cans of Rust-o-leum (gallons and quarts). I looked on the back of the can and it said I could thin it out with mineral spirits for spraying. So I bought one quart of black and one gallon of mineral spirits for less than $30.00. Unfortunately I did a horrible prep job (I was rushing) and it's flaking off in some places, but other than that it sprayed great!!!! I plan on re-doing it again just because it cost $30.00 (haha). Of course that did not incude tape, paper (used newspapers are free), DA sand paper, etc..
Don't expect it to age very well either. We paineted our 570 farmall with VanSyckle, after five years it started to chalk up
Oh yeah.. I forgot... About a year after I did that I picked up a Hot Rod Magazine (don't judge me) and saw that people had written in letters about doing the same thing (Rust-o-leum). They were referring to some article that Hot Rod had done on paintig a car like that. I'm interested in finding the article.
I called Tractor Supply co, a year or so ago and they said their paint was straight enamel; like rustoleum etc. I found these guys http://equipmentcolor.com/lic40.html It's "industrial paint colors" made by Valspar and that link is for the polyurethane enamel. They also have acrylic enamel but I tried it on a tractor and prefer the polurethane one that I did a car with. The stuff sprays nice and is chip resistant...and I got a full gallon of paint with activator & reducer for $88 shipped...a real cool blue color. Nice gloss. Call them to get a real color chart as the chart has way more color choices than the tractor list on that page; this stuff is super nice
Unfortunately true, you get what you pay for in most cases concerning finishes. I hate the price, but the quality for the most part is not there on the cheaper paints.
A cheap paint job has been on mind for a while. The link below is off of the Mopar site and its where HotRod Mag got their info. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=3493382&page=0&fpart=21&vc=1
Hahaha... Moparts.org. I should have figured. All Moapr guys like myself are cheap bastards since everything Mopar seems to cost a fortune. I'm very seriously considering painting my 59 with Rust-o-leum. The jury is still out on that one though...
I used the tractor supply paint to paint the neighbors 4x4 mud truck. I used the hardener and it came out better than I expected. But I wouldnt use it on anything I really cared about.
I guess the pictures are too big, but thats a thread where I guy did the "50 dollar" paintjob. It turned out awesome for as little money that was put into it. You know what they say though. Cheap, Fast, Quality, pick two. Personally, I think the time he spent painting was well worth it. Nice little daily paint job, not a lot of money, and it's "touch-upable"
Sherwin-Williams has avery good arcrylic enamel for industrial equipment, just a few colors available Red-Blue-Green-white-black and safety yellow, very reasonably priced, very durable, and good gloss.
I am painting a car with the paint from tractor supply,its a experiment and will see how it holds up. If it works out I am thinking about painting my 66 F250 with the ford tractor blue,my truck will be prepped unlike the car as its just been scuffed and painted with all the dents and imperfections in place. Jeff
Have a friend that restores old tractors. He uses Anchor paint with a hardener. They look very good. Used to be that you could get decent paint from Redneck Trailers in Wichita. Don't know if you still can. Pete
Well I am doing the Rustoleum paint job on my 65 Corvair- Two tone black and red. I cant say anythign about how well it stand up to abuse yet, but I can tell you this- It takes a LOT of work. Still 1 million percent worth it though. I did the black on the top half of the car first and have to tell you it turned out flatter and smoother then I ever thought it would. It REALLY looked GOOD! (READ good not AWESOME) DEFINTIELY a good idea for something that wont be a showcar. For best results, make sure everything is flat and smooth- that means less sanding later. I would definitely do it again!! Oh and by the way, when two-tone painting something, dont leave the tape on for a month or you will be "touching up" some areas Easy touchup though Heres some pics- The red area isnt done yet.. still addign more layers. I would say there is legitimately 9 coats of black on it cuz you put it on so thin. Also the black isnt wetsanded or polished yet. I wetsanded the second to last layer really good with 2000 grit and then rolled on the last layer. Now that the weather has cooled down I want to finish the red and actually polish it!!!!
If you are looking for a cheap paint that sprays good and is tuff as hell try Jones Blair I have painted thre boats two cars and one bike. I like the shit out of it.
Sorry.. Since you guys started the subject I can't seem to keep away from it. I just wanted to post a pic of my "daily experiment". 1 quart of Rust-o-leum Flat Black ($7.00) 1/2 gallon of mineral spirits ($12.00) 3 spray cans of Rust-o-leum Yellow ($12.00) 2 spray cans of Rust-o-lem Orange ($8.00) 1 spray can of Rust-o-lem Red ($4.00) One weekend of taping, drinking, sanding, more drinking, spraying, even more drinking.... $ priceless $
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