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Tractor "top links" for 4 link?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Billy Dean, Feb 12, 2008.

  1. Billy Dean
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 87

    Billy Dean
    Member

    Anybody ever use top links for tractors as a 4 link setup for a rear axle? you can buy a top link for as much as you would spend on 1 chromoly rod end and its tough enough to drag a plow.
     
  2. Motorbreath
    Joined: Nov 14, 2006
    Posts: 539

    Motorbreath
    Member

    From what i understand about them they are plenty tough, but the downfall is they arent very precise. If that makes any sense, the heims arent made for precision, like you would need in a suspension, there just made to hold the two peices together. But i could definetly be wrong...... Just what ive understood\heard about them.

    p.s. do an intro before someone busts your balls over it...ha ha
     
  3. lehr
    Joined: May 13, 2004
    Posts: 602

    lehr
    Member

    Well you only drag a plow about 5 mph...How fast do you drive ?
     
  4. pistinbroke
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 540

    pistinbroke
    Member

    About five years ago a local guy here built a drag car with these. It WAS an opal gt (key word here "was") Long story short, first pass, wrecked car, badly broken driver, long recovery..... You get the point.
     
  5. Battleship parts with a non-precision fit. Not for hot rods.
     
  6. InDaShop
    Joined: Aug 15, 2004
    Posts: 2,796

    InDaShop
    Member
    from Houston

    They also wear out fast! Starting out they have a little slop in them, as they aren't built to exact tolerances. After a little wear you get tons of slop. So your suspension "Clangs" when you hit a bump.

    The other problem is the adjustability. A qualified heim with have be fine thread for exacting adjustability and ability to lock lock and ensure it doesn't move. Ag links are a heavy coarse thread and are much harder to lock down with total security that they wont back off and get loose.

    For mocking up suspensions, I used to use the 24" ag links, cut in half. The ones from Tractor supply allow a 1" piece of PVC to slide right into them. So you can play with adjustability, and clearance.

    I would run them on the road, but know you will be replacing them with some regularity. I know of a certain hamber that took a link, cut it in two, and welded then ends on to his split bones, and secured the bones to the frame using the Ag pins with the retainer pins. He did tack the retainer pins, so you couldn't unhook him so to speak as a prank or what not. Car is still on the road with that setup been years, and its a helluva kick butt lil roadster.
     
  7. btmatt
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 227

    btmatt
    Member

    Another thing to think about, those links are damn heavy. Most "performance" suspensions lean toward less unsprung weight, not more.
     
  8. senior fried
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,032

    senior fried
    Member

    Everyone that posted here is dead on. Sometimes it is tempting to use parts that look like they might work. I did without asking anyone and almost wrecked my car, that was before I joined the H.a.m.b. Lehr had the best answer. Good luck, use all the best parts you will be glad you did.
     
  9. james
    Joined: May 18, 2001
    Posts: 1,064

    james
    Member

    wasn't it bell helmets that had the ad "buy a $10 helmet if you have a $10 head" or something to that effect? Cheap out on the interior, or paint, or even the motor, but NOT on suspension or brakes.
     

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