Features Traditional Track T or Bucket Build Cost Under $5000??

I have a 75 Dodge truck that doesnt run and needs work that I thought about pulling the motor out of and using it in my T bucket. Its a slant six with 3 on the tree.

I not only have no friends but no one with a truck.

I just had made a contact with a member who has a few hot rodder friends that get together here in my city so I'm going to see about making the early morning meeting. It would be nice to talk shop.

 

I love your innovation. Stories like that are very inspirational. I would love to see pictures of the ma deuce in the middle. I'm hoping it's a barrel jacket and not a full gun!

 

I think I'd fix the truck first-a truck is almost a necessity if you want to fool around with old cars. Besides, I think the old "Adventurers" were cool.

 

The design of the Spirit chassis is such that it goes through the lower part of the fire wall.

 

Good deal! It's great to have other guys to bounce things off of and help out.

 

Cool can't wait to see pics of it.

Do you know what the biggest steering wheel is you can go with in the T's?

 

20 years ago I built a dollar a pound T Bucket. Weighed 2100 lbs and I spent $2200 dollars. Lots of scrounging and trading but got it done. Had to spend another $600 on tires after it was on the road. I'm guessing it would cost $2.00 a pound or more now, but could still be done for under $5000. You will need to have some stuff to swap though so it will be tough if your starting from scratch!

 

T's are tight. Unless you can get creative 14" is about as big as you'll get to fit in there. A 13" wheel is a safer bet.

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

Yeah I think it can be done for in that price range if not a little more. I do have some Mopar parts that I have adds on the boards for. The bad part is they are for a 70 Coronet & Superbird so unless someone is looking for them it wont sell or trade. These are also high dollar parts but I have them listed very low. I may ebay them.

I might see if I can trade them around for some hot rod parts. Maybe a steering box, wheel and some other things.

Hey thanks that is good to know. I have some B body Mopar wheels but I'm betting are 14 or more.

The guy with the wheels says they are 13.5 and look like late 60s to 70s era. I need to look up the tuff wheel and see the dimensios it may be 14".

Someone tell me about quick release? Is there a plate that goes into the wheel that helps it become a quick release?

I know these questions may sound dumb but I'm trying to learn, buy and buy once.

I did see pics of the Speedway Motors Tribute T uses a reversed Corvair steering box. I also asked for a part book from them for the T.

I also saw the brackets to hang a steering colum, I think it is something I can make it have made in the area for less.

 

Oh I wanted to add. Speedway Motors has a book on building the T buckets step by step that I might order. I think it would be a good way for me to learn the ins and outs along with everything you guys say.

I have a discount code to get it for $14.99. I had a book like this for the B and E body Mopars and I learned a lot from them. How to factory restore car.

 

Not a dumb question at all. The quick release was designed for race cars to make it easier to get in and out of. I had one in my Formula Vee I used to race. Basically, it's just a male splined or hexagon shaped end piece you weld onto a steering column shaft. Then there's a removable female hub that slips onto it and locks on via a pin button or pull ring collar. Then you bolt on your steering wheel to the hub using three bolts that are standard. To release the wheel, you just push the button or pull the ring collar and the wheel pops off.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/steel-wheel-hub-th.html

http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0005_turp_new_products/photo_07.html

 

Thanks!

What size steering wheel you going with?

 

Well, here goes. When I built this thing I knew it was gonna be cheap. However, I hate the "rat rod" moniker, and I don't think it fits the rat thing anyway. It isn't built to look like shit, just a different look. It ain't all rust and cobbled, just different. If it offends someone, they gotta have thin skin. A couple of guys asked for pictures, so here they are. Just before it was finished I was asked to deliver it to a Veterans day celebration. Went over well, guys had a lot of fun. Norm

 

Oh man Norm I have to say I LOVE IT!!!!!!!! That is what I'm talking about.

I don't see it as being a Rat Rod at all. I see it as being very creative and a tribute to all those who serve. I love this T man.

I need to really look at the pictures in detail and see what all is going on.

Tell me where did you put the battery?

I thought about taking some ammo cans from the surplus shop and cutting them in half and welding them back up to fit a battery in.

The OD green and red wheel with white walls! I love it that is a bitchen ride.

What window frame did you use? I like that look, it has the swept back look to it.

Did you do a youtube video of it? I saw an OD T bucket but not sure if it has those wheels.

Thanks for shairing and if you have more photos or a link please share. I love it.

 

Cool!! Love it! That's no rat rod. Very creative.

 

There are free online plans that are linked earlier in this thread if you want to pique your interest a little more before ordering a book...

 

Battery is under the seat on the passenger side, next to the driveshaft. Car sets so low the driveshaft is above the floor. Has a couple of loops around it just in case. Had to build the windshield frame. Kinda wanted a fighter plane look. There was about 15 peices welded together. After it was tack welded I was gonna take it off, finish welding, and smooth it all up. Then I got looking at the tack welds and decided to give it a shitload of tacks and leave it be. Kinda looks like rivits. There is a heavy steel structure under the cowl that the frame bolts to. I had a windshied collapse on me about 40 years ago due to insuffecient support, and I didn't wanna repeat this. Windshield sets a little higher than I wanted, but the wind still hits me in the face. I'm over 6' and theres little space to cram my big ass. This is my first build with an automatic and I hate it. However there isn't a lot of room for a bunch of pedals. No, it ain't been on u-tube, but I think I saw one something like it. Hard to believe that the engine has 403 cubic inches and about a hunnert and sixty tire shreddin' horsepower. But due to the lightweight vehicle and a 3.50 gear, it gets right up and goes. Only thing I'm not happy with is the bump steer problem. I thought the pivot of the hairpin placement was close enough to the pittman arm, but evidently not. It's not terrible, but when it catches you off guard, it scares you. I'm gonna try a panhard bar to see if that helps. This has been my first paralell drag link build in a long time, so I guess I'm a little out of it. Cross steer is so much better. I've got some ideas for the looks of the engine, but haven't had the time yet to do it. Gona pull the chrome off it and replace the covers with something just a little bit "different". But that's down the line. I just wanna get it out and drive it as soon as this Michigan spring springs.

 

^THIS

I don't have a truck either and it has prevented me from making some great parts scores.

 

The way you mounted the rear spring to axle brackets [not far enough apart ,no tension on shackles] is part of the reason your car would wander !!
dave

 

No offense COOP, but your steering geometery is way off and that is the root of your bump steer problem. When running a paralell drag link like that, unless your running a four bar system with equal length links, you want your pitman arm pointed down, and the drag link roughly bisecting the rear radius rods pivot on it's way to the spindle. That way you are forming complimentary arcs as the suspension runs through it's movement.

I do have to take exception to your remark that cross steering is much better. It's apples to apples when both are set up correctly. I'm not a huge fan of cross steering on a t-bucket application with a suicide perch and a spring behind type front end because of the angle the drag link has to conform to to connect the spindle. Most I have seen have a real sharp turning radius one dirrection and real shallow the other.

 

Yep, yer right on the arc. Problem is, it's a mustang gear and the pittman arm has to aim up. This is the first time I've used one (and last) so I was kinda in the dark on the arc thing. I thought if it was close to the hairpin pivot it would work. Wrong...... well they call it a learning process, and believe me I'm still learning. Thanx, Norm

 

Need Louvers..... Yep, yer right. This is the first time that I have used a Mustang box. (and last) The Mustang pittman has to aim up, and I completly missed the arc that you mentioned. I guess this is one of the things that you have to watch out for when you are getting things free or cheap. Guess I was a little out of my element with this one. Have done many chassis' in the past with either the old F1 box or Vega. I guess they call this a learning process for things like this. Thanx for your info. Norm

 

Gotta excuse my posting this thing twice..... computer skills are not my strong point..... sorry. Oh, I guess this the third one, I'll leave now.......

 

Oh I bet that's a rocket!
Nice work

 

Is there any other rear end that can be used besides an S-10 that is the right lenght from the start?

Also on the truck build that is something that may happen. I have to bring the truck from WVA and a guy I talked with said he could maybe pick the truck up and bring it to me. If he does the wood bed will be replaced, breaks done and whatever else it needs to make it run and drive. I will leave it needing paint until I can do the build I want on that one. The slant six and 3 on the tree would do fine for a shop type truck.

For now getting info and collecting parts for the T build.

 

I use early Ford V8 rearends.....Perfect size and they're not ugly like the GM rearends.

 

On the Falcon(60-65)Mustang(64-73)Comet/Maverick(71-75?) boxes... you can usually mount the box forward of the engine in the "stock" position with the pitman going forward and drag link running to RH steering arm or to bracket welded to tie rod itself.
This requires a pillow block on the intermediate steering shaft in most cases. The steering shaft will run from a u-joint at the base of the column through the pillow block to another joint and the final shaft to the box shaft.

 

Yes, in their stock for Mustang and falcon boxes are set up in a cross steer mode and can be used that way in hot rods too. Matter of fact, it used to be common to use them in '35-'48 Ford chassis and a couple companies made steering brackets for them. The problem with them for T-Bucket uese as cross streer though is they have an awfully long sector shaft that places the box up awfully high above the frame rail for any chance of the deal looking as good as it functions. And, as I said earlier, for the same reasons I'm not too fond of cross steering on a suicide perched, sring behind front end.

 

Don't feel bad sir, my computer skills are questionable at best!

 

Great posts guys. I'm learning too...