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Trans temp gauge sending unit location

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GARY T., Dec 26, 2008.

  1. GARY T.
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,985

    GARY T.
    Member
    from S.W. Pa

    HI
    I'm going to be installing a trans temp gauge ,and am undecided where to put the sending unit. I don't think I can put it in either line that goes to the cooler,because they are rubber,and wouldn't give it a ground. Don't really feel like drilling&welding on the pan, wasn't planning on taking it off. I heard somewhere that on a 700-r you could screw it into the case somewhere. what I want to know is if there is a place on a turbo 350 case where it could be screwed into?
     
  2. Crosley
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,140

    Crosley
    Member
    from Aridzona

    I answered your thread on one of the other boards you placed this question.

    you do not want the sensor in the cooler lines.

    Trans pan is best... next location is into the rear pressure port on the t-350, above the pan rail , p***enger side of trans.

    red line around the port
     

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    Last edited: Dec 26, 2008
  3. Flatman
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,975

    Flatman
    Member

    Generally it's the sump temp that's desired. If you don't want to drill into the pan, you can epoxy it to the side corner and still get a fairly accurate reading, but I'd still lean toward properly installing it. What's a TH350 gasket worth?

    Flatman
     
  4. InDaShop
    Joined: Aug 15, 2004
    Posts: 2,796

    InDaShop
    Member
    from Houston

    Really you'd drill and bung the pan? My knowledge of this is that you end up getting the temp of the metal of the pan and not necessarily the fluid temp.

    If you are running a cooler then put it in either line with a "T" fitting. On my race car I run it in the return line so I know what temp is hitting my ******. Sorry might not be smartest for a daily or road car. I know I will destroy parts, and if I already knew my trans was 250degrees i might let off, vs. only "knowing" the fluid hitting it is 220 degrees. See my backward logic..... :D
     
  5. Wouldn't the temp of the metal and the oil be pretty much the same?:confused:


    Crosley, I've thought in the past about making an aluminum block "T" that could be put into the return line that would also accept the bourdon tube bulb from an S-W mechanical.

    It wouldn't be too far downstream from the return line exit fitting.

    The 32 has a home-made bung setup and the bulb goes right into the trans pan.
     
  6. GARY T.
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,985

    GARY T.
    Member
    from S.W. Pa

    although I'm going to put mine in the pressure port,just thought I'd add that if U buy a B&M gauge , they recomend that you install it in the return line from the cooler
     
  7. On my 454 camper special the temp gauge is in the return line. I never realized the amount of heat generated by the torque converter at a red light, you can watch the temp. rise, causing me to put it in neutral sometimes(on hot days).

    I'm concerned about the use of rubber lines, and am hoping that you used something of especially good quality.
     
  8. InDaShop
    Joined: Aug 15, 2004
    Posts: 2,796

    InDaShop
    Member
    from Houston

    Ha, you'd think right. At least it makes sense but like Unclee says below you end up with surges "Spikes" in temp. And depending on where in the pan its mounted and if the exhaust is close or not. You end up with a needle that moves all over the place.


    In the return line is always what we've done. Not sure if its right, but the readings seem to be less spiked and more normallized. Like I mentioned above. At least I know my fluid supply temp hitting the ******. The only way to drastically reduce and control the ****** temp is to get it in Neutral.

    BTW, the fluid will fully circulate in Neutral, and cool. Vs. sitting with it in gear or idling (slow speed) in gear, the fluid flow is restricted by RPM.
    If it gets hot, grab neutral.
     
  9. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,501

    Muttley
    Member

    I installed one in the return line of my old Camaro with a T fitting that was grounded for the sender. It worked fine and was a snap to install.


    Good point, make sure you use the hose thats made for trans fluid or it will break down much faster.
     
  10. junkyardroad
    Joined: Oct 3, 2007
    Posts: 410

    junkyardroad
    Member
    from Colorado

    Remove the pan and install a drain plug kit. The kit uses a 1/8 npt drain plug and so do most senders. Use a ring terminal on your sender for easy removal. Done this on all mine, works great, very cheap.
     

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