So Im getting ready to swap this 200 with the tired old 140 in my 1960 falcon. As the 200 sat, the transmission cooler lines got bent just enough to get crimped. The crimp is up front under the alternator so its close to the radiator soft hose connection. Can I just cut behind the crimp and add the soft hose to the radiator or do I need to bend them down with a tubing bender and add the soft hose? I could replace the lines but do I really need to?
It should be OK as long as it's only a foot or so. Make sure you use the correct type hose, don't try to use vacuum or gas hose.
The hose advice is good.......but you could also get a compression fitting coupler, cut the crimp out with a tubing cutter and rejoin the original pieces. Either way will work....your call.
I put the first half of a double flare on the steel lines just give it ridge to prevent the hose from slipping off.
Local parts store should have transmission specific hose.I had to do the same thing just put a small flare on the end of the line,debur well,slid the hose over and used a usa made clamp to tighten it up.
As Algoma56 suggested, the first half of a double flare is best. Any regular flare will tend to cut into the hose and it may fail. The double flare "bubble" also makes it easy to install the hose compared to a regular flare.
Well I guess I should have been more specific.I meant a bubble flare but said small.I think from now on a will just read and keep any help or comments to myself.My little header at the top of my page asked why I had not commented in while,this confirms why.
You can't be serious! Well...whatever you meant, you DESCRIBED something that, as you know, is far more likely to cause a problem than what Algoma56 suggested. Someone unaware of the potential issue could do as you described and end up with problems on the road. I just wanted to make sure they knew the difference! If thats a problem for you then I don't know what to say. You really shouldn't take things so personal. I certainly didn't mean to upset anyone!
I am sorry to see that you feel the way you have described. The BEST of contributors on here occasionally misstate or omit some element in their suggestion, or are misunderstood by the reader, and another poster will hasten to point it out. Some do so out of a genuine desire to correct the error or omission, others just seem to delight in either upping their own post count or are playing "gotcha". Either way, it happens. You undoubtedly have extensive experience and are well positioned to offer useful suggestions, something many not so experienced HAMBERS come here to benefit from. The easiest thing to do, though also the least useful, is to stay in the shadows. I hope you will not choose that option and will 'speak up' when you have the opportunity.
I agree with the using proper high pressure hose and care with the flair on the metal line. Burl I also agree that you can be useful here. Don't let petty things upset you or stop you from commenting.
for something like this I use the screw type Fuel injection clamps as they grip the hose and have more surface area to grip the pipe too , its only 10 psi max pressure on the trans cooler lines .and use a transmission/hydraulic fluid rated hose , as soon as the fluid gets warm with regular gas line it starts to attack it .
Almost every aftermarket trans cooler kit comes with hose and hose clamps, and they have worked well for decades. I wouldn't hesitate to put a hose splice in the line, as long as you use the correct hose.
Rubber cooler lines will not pass Tech at the drags because its going to fail, the cheap transmission coolers come with hose and clamps but they will fail. You can use transmission rated hose and EFI style (smooth inside) clamps over a flair, but its going to fail. OEM lines with crimped on rubber connections fail faster than you can change them. Metal tubing flared with nuts good for the street, AN hose and fittings that have been pressure tested for racing, heavy equipment and trucks, airplanes ect. use crimp style hydraulic hose and ends. It is cheap and easy to do it right, beats walking, fires and an oil down at the track. Line pressure in the average automatic trans is 30psi.
Wont pass tech? From what I've seen they will, IF the length is less than the max. allowed under the rules. And the last car I sold had the same hoses on the cooler that I installed almost 18 years ago, and still dry. It also made passes at the local strip, and never had a tech mention the two 6" pieces of hose to the cooler.
All the MOKAN tech guy checked before the H.A.M.B. Drags was did I have the rubber lines double clamped...
do as larryw or as hnstray suggested if you have the tools.you have the advantage of doing it out of the car and right in front of you now much easier do get the bends right to clear everything.just be sure if you splice that splice is free of rust and solid line.I have used rubber line and flared line for over 50 years most pre high pressure line no problem also compression fittings the one advantage with splicing with rubber is lining up fitting into rad with solid line laying under car.go with your comfort level and tools.I would also try to mount line mid way usually there is mount bracket bolted to oil pan.this will keep line from vibrating and possibly breaking at fittings.good luck with what ever method you choose lot of good advice on here.
after blowing your picture up I think the support bracket I mentioned I see one just in front of starter mounted to block
2:14 TRANSMISSION, Automatic/NHRA-AcceptedAll cars running 10.99 (*6.99) seconds and quicker must have an NHRA-accepted locking-type dipstick on the transmission. Any non-OEM automatic floor-mounted automatic transmission shifter must be equipped with a spring-loaded positive reverse lockout device to prevent the shifter from accidentally being put into reverse gear. Functional neutral safety switch mandatory. All transmission lines must be metallic or high-pressure-type hose. All vehicles running quicker than 10.99 seconds (*6.99) or faster than 135 mph (except some Stock and Super Stock classes as noted under Class Requirements) and using an automatic transmission must be equipped with a transmission shield meeting SFI Spec 4.1 and labeled accordingly. (“Blanket”-type shield, appropriately labeled as meeting SFI Spec 4.1, permitted.) All non-blanket-type shields must incorporate two (or one, per manufacturer’s instructions) 3/4 x 1/8-inch straps that bolt to the shield on each side and pass under the transmission pan, or transmission pan must be labeled as meeting SFI Spec 4.1. Permitted in all classes where an automatic transmission is used. Comp, Super Comp, Super Gas, 9.99 or quicker E.T. cars, and 135- mph or faster E.T. cars using an automatic transmission, Lenco Drive, or BRT must be equipped with a flexplate meeting SFI Spec 29.1 and covered by a flexplate shield meeting SFI Spec 30.1. Transmission that can utilize a high-gear transbrake must be supported by the use of two momentary buttons (one to arm the system, second as the main transbrake). Air shifter bottles must be stamped with DOT-1800 pound rating (minimum) and be securely mounted (i.e., no tie wraps or hose clamps). Just trying to share knowledge from 32 years of transmission work on just about all types of vehicles. If you want to do it correctly this would be helpful, if you want to do it another way go ahead as nothing I could ever write will help. 24 posts in 6 or 7 years and this is why. Oh well!GjUSTJ eneral
I know this is old..but for an emergency can i use the power vacuum hose as a transmission return line? 120 miles tops?
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