TRI-5 owners - who's got one? I have questions!

has anyone installed rack & pinon under their tri-5. i have stock steering and can't deceide to go the 605 box or rack, thanks

 

57 150 Handyman Wagon here. Unfortunately slow progress on it as I've gone from building a garage/workshop to 70hr work weeks to unemployed. Tough times, but the car is there whenever I have the ability to do a little work and it's a lot more patient than me!

Haven't heard much good about r&p conversions for these cars. Some of them drive pretty well but they normally cost a bunch of money and for the most part don't have fewer clearance problems than a 605 conversion--just different ones. 605 works pretty well. There are also a couple of options based on the variable ratio box used in the Tahoe. With power steering you can't get too much caster. There are a couple of options for that including offset cross shafts and tubular upper arms with geometry to allow additional caster. Sometimes you can allow a little extra caster by dimpling the spring tower in front of the upper cross shaft a little so that you can go to 0 shims on front without interference. That interference is the reason for the offset cross shafts.

Ford 8.8" rear from an Explorer is the same width as the original and is equipped with disk brakes if that appeals to you.

Brake booster from Chevy Monza (and variants) or Pontiac Fiero will fit, clearance to valve covers is pretty limited.

If you go to side mounted engine the mounts come in 2 variants: stock location & 3/4" forward from stock. The latter is needed with HEI distributor.

Sway bar from 80's vintage big Ford can be adapted to the front. All in the interest of cost control.

Best thing about these cars is that you can buy just about any part required repro. Usually there are multiple sources and the cost is fairly reasonable.

 

55 2 door sedan here. Used the CCI front kit on the disc brake set up. Moved the wheel out a tad but just changed the offset on the wheel a little. fits real well. Went with the non power unit due to low vacuum. Anything you might need pm me. I can send you copies of articles from the CCI tech manual. might want to pick up a copy of that along with shop manual and ***embly manual. Hope you enjoy it.

 

You couldn't PAY me to put a R & P under a shoebox Chevy much less my '56 Sedan Delivery . Those things fall apart under WAY lighter cars (the origionals for instance!). Think about it - could you buy a 605 from the local parts store - even in their heyday??? Sure they'd be able to order you one, but compare that to a modern R & P - parts stores STOCK them - why??? 'cause they fail ALL THE TIME. - Plus the LOOK like **** too!!!!! Ok so I am a little biased.

 

Keep the info coming, guys. I just got (hands-down the world's ugliest) '57 Chevy and I was shocked at how poor the original braking system was set up. Drums all around don't bother me, but that single master cylinder looks like something you'd see on the handlebars of a motorcycle, and the way the brake lines are strung together one after another? Scandalous. Any bolt-in replacement dual chamber master cylinders out there from other applications?

 

Might try 68-72 A-body and mid size GM with drum brakes. a lot of those models had dual master cylinders for th drum brake setup. The SS and performance cars had disc brakes. you will need a master cylinder with residual valves in both ports.

 

Probably can't run 14" wheels with the dropped spindles, I found that out the hard way.

 

thanks guys for the info about r&p. i'll probably go 605. what tilt column works best with the 605 for a 57?

 

Ididit or Flaming river both have nice units. They are damn expensive if you want column shift and tilt. Don't forget your rag joint if you decide to go this way!

 

I sure will elaborate a little. A hollow aluminum block that is subjected to every little (and big bump) you hit is bound to fail. You are adding un-needed stress to the only link between your rearend and your springs (u-bolts). Aluminum is much softer than carbon steel, thus it will flex much more which may lead to premature failure. My main reason for not using a block is its long term reliability. I don't want to be cruizin down the road with that doomsday thought in the back of my mind. I would ante up and do it correctly the first time. That's just my opinion, so take it for what its worth.

 

If you can find a mid 70's van and are good with a welder you can use that type column with the automatic. That way you can still use your key switch in the dash.. Just a thought.

 

can you use the van column in a 57 or just 55-56's?

 

According to my tech article they can be used but there is a slight modification to the dash and lower column bracketry.