Hi, I’m new to the site and I’m building a 1932 Chev Cabriolet. I’m doing it in traditional style. It has a 66 327/350 combo. I recently found a tri pak manifold with Rochester cars. I m having issues with alternator mounting now, as the front carb and filler neck are now in the way. I tried the driver side like mount but it won’t clear my steering linkage. Also we have found that the distributor cap rests on the rear carb slightly. Any one that is experienced with this situation? Thanks Darrell
Small cap dist the one before the style you have, usually aftermarket or 55-56. Mount the alt up on top right or left. And run a hood. Good luck. Hotrodding ain't ez
I’ll be running the hood too only with no sides. One thing that’s not helping is the engine has no accessories holes in the front of the heads.
Your running SBC side type motor mounts? That would mean your drivers side, lower front mounting holes are not being used? If not you can mount small Honda, fork truck type Alt. in that location? Forget the GM standard size Alt. You can drill mounting holes into those heads you know..............................
If your just running the basics with no real amperage draw I have seen the little alternators from a lawn tractor mounted low on the motor, have no idea what amperage they were, or what exactly it was off of but have seen them.
Never new there was such a setup. I’ll have to look in to it. Thanks Looks like I’ll havevto explore a few different options. I know powermaster makes a small body but it’s pricey
I agree. There are many bracket kits to mount a small Honda Or Chevy S-10 alternator at the lower front of the engine . Much cleaner than the OEM TOP MOUNT! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here's what I run in most cars/trucks that don't require a lot of Amps. This one puts out 70 I believe. Looks like your running a short water pump?. The bracket in pic is drilled for a BBC but the SBC looks the same................................
This is a full size alt. from Ford Motorsports, was tight but rectified it in short order. None of it came out of a kit either.
If you can use a long water pump, I mounted an alt. off a junked out Toyota Tercel sitting out in the field and mounted it to the engine mount holes in the front of the block. I had to cut out an L shaped block of aluminum for the alt. mount and fabricated an adjuster.
Looks like you have an HEI dizzy, use a small base aftermarket HEI or original points one, problem one solved. I don't have a photo of the low left side alternator mount, but it's in there. I think the mount was around $30, chrome, I was going to make one, it's very simple, but for that, I couldn't have done it myself, let alone have it chromed. Since I had that shiny bit I put a chrome alternator on as well. Mounts to the engine mount holes, cleared everything, looks pretty aside from the overspray...
The little fork truck alternators are great on simple hot rods. With a little digging you can get them easy enough and very reasonable. Or you can pay too much for the "race alternator" in an easy to find kit with great tech support. They've also got the brackets and mounting all figured out for you it's TOO easy but you pay for it.
The racemate is pretty damn slick. It like the guy took apart his Harley stator and said hummmm? Wonder if this will fit on a Water pump. Very ingenious
Well he will have to duplicate (make) the ram's horn bracket will he not? Unless he gets some old Hedman's already set up for that (which would be even cooler! ) Nice Chevy by the way!
Here is the ‘57 283 in my ‘34 Chevy. The gen bracket is a Jitney Jake Jacobs item. (I think he made an alternator version too?) ‘57 distributer. Edelbrock C357 intake. I could have made something off the Fenton bosses but switched to those later.
I am intrigued by your exhaust manifolds, I've never seen dual outlet, cast manifold like that. Or, am I seeing things? ;-)
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