I've got a decent one from a '39 - that's solid shaft with a support bearing in the middle. I plan on chopping it down and splicing it back together with a foot or two of tubing that's ID matches the torques tube's OD. Weld at the edge of the overlap and drill a few holes prior to slipping the pieces together and fill with rosette welds for good measure. Has anyone beat me to it and found a particular tubing that works? See any problems I haven't thought of? It'll be pretty short - around 3 1/2 to 4 feet - would you leave the support bearing or do you think it's needed at all? I think the little grease fitting looks neat. The actual shaft will most likely be cut and resplined. Tube will be measured before and after shortening. The difference will be the amount cut from the driveshaft.
If it were me I'd shorten the tube in such a way that the center bearing goes. If it's that short it will not need one. I'd cut the torque tube just behind the center bearing and then cut the front part to give the desired length. I'd make sure the cuts are square, chamfer them real well, and use angle iron to keep them in alignment. Tack in 3 places, then fully weld with a good powerful welder. I wouldn't bother sleeving or rosette welding. The further forward the weld the less stressed it is. Resplining the shaft is the hard part. Mart.
Hey Grimlock. If you follow Marts suggestion on the fit and weld, it will be fine. Thats the way you fit pipe. As you know you only have so much straight area on a 39 torque tube before the taper starts, So your somewhat limited on where to make the cut. As a suggestion, here is what I did on my 32 project I'm working on. I used a 34 torque tube and driveshaft. The tube is real nice and straight (same diameter) most of its length so cutting and fitting is no problem. The 34 driveshaft is the only one that is about 2 inches in diameter and hollow. You cut the splined end off a 35 and up drive shaft (pinion side)and it will slip right in the 34 drive shaft. True it up, weld and pin it. It sure beats the re-spline deal. Because of the larger diameter of the 34, whipping is not a problem and no inner torque tube bearing was used that year. You could also build the drive shaft out of heavy wall pipe (schedule 80) and machine the inside to accept the splined ends of the 39. Does this make any sense? Sorry man I just don't have the stuff to load pics, But if ya get down towards Jeff City, your more than welcome to stop in and put an eyeball on it. ----------------------------------------------------------- "OPOSSUM BENDERS" Central Missouri Chapter
to make sure the ends are square after you cut the tube..borrow or rent a 4" pipe cutter,works real good for this
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