Hello! Decided to take a few spare hours to work on the clutch install on my '64 Galaxie. It's an original 390 car, born with a 3 on the tree and converted to 4spd way before I got it. ****** is a toploader out of a 66 - 67 Galaxie, based on the tag. I'm using a McLeod street/strip diaphragm clutch purchased from Jegs, the original flywheel that's been resurfaced, and all new ARP bolts. It's an 11" clutch with a 10 spline disc, which was exactly what came out of the car. The only difference is that the pressure plate that I pulled out of the car had a Borg and Beck type release, 3 fingers vs. many more smaller fingers on the diaphragm-type clutch. I got the pressure plate and clutch disc in place w/2 bolts, then started to rotate the flywheel by hand to install the remaining 4 bolts. I turned the flywheel about 90 degrees, and it stopped moving with a "thunk". I looked up in the bellhousing, and saw that the highest part of the pressure plate was hitting the cast "indent" in the bellhousing for the clutch fork. The pressure plate appears to be either too big, or bigger than the original in a place where it shouldn't be. Anyone else ever had this problem? The interference doesn't appear to be much...maybe 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch. Should I grind off the inside of the bellhousing, or call up Jegs and talk to one of their tech people? Also, does anyone know if the 3spd bellhousing is the same as a 4spd bellhousing? As usual, what should be a relatively straightforward project is turning into a HUGE pain in the ***. Thanks... Chris
Do you have the early "narrow pattern" bellhousing? Later bellhousings had a wider patten for the transmission to bolt to. I suspect they are wider by the release fork as well. There is also a bumped bellhousing that allows a 12" clutch like in the 428 CJ cars.
Yes, I believe that I do have an early narrow pattern bellhousing. The top bolts were a ***** to get at because they used the inner bolt holes of the transmission mount, and I had to perform some major contortions to get at them. What might that have to do with the clutch? Am I stuck with a borg and beck type clutch? Not a tragedy, but shipping clutches back and forth to Ohio is going to get expensive. Chris
The '65-up Bells were 'roomier' than the earlier ones, so the diaphragm pressure plate is the problem. I'm having a hard time visualizing where it could be hitting, but in any case you'll have to grind out whatever amount it's hitting plus some more (for possible 'growth') so you may weaken the bell or maybe even end up with a hole. I'd go back to a OEM-type Borg & Beck, they work just as well...
I'd try the Ford agency parts man ... the old guy - rebuilt Ford parts always worked well for me. I realize this may no longer be an option ...
Are you sure you have the correct bolt size for the pressure plate...If the hole is 3/8ths and you use the 5/16ths it could allow the pressure plate to swing out and hit...
the cover ***embly is different on a diaphram pressure plate..go back to the correct Borg & Beck ***embly..
Number one, the original clutch was a Long, not B&B. Two, you have to install and torque all 6 correct pressure plate bolts to check for any plate to bell interference. With only two bolts in place you could damage (bend) the p-plate along with allowing it to be too close the the bell and/or out of round radially, as 3 of those p-p bolt holes are larger than the other 3. I switched to an 11" diaphragm clutch, (using a Mcleod steel flywheel) purchased from my local clutch rebuilder, on an FE using a '64 bell with no clearance issues, so I know it's possible.
I just had this small issue in a 57 Ford-4 speed combo. Just remove the bellhousing and bolt up the clutch cover. Then replace the bellhousing. I did not need to grind anything off the bellhousing but it was tight. Also the early bellhousing front bearing hole is smaller that the top loader dual bolt pattern 4 speed. I took the bearing retainer off and had to turn it down to fit the hole and use allen head bolts to re install it. Oh, two other issues. I learned the hard way there are 2 different 10 splines disc's. test fit the one you have on the pilot shaft before you try to shove the gear box in it. I also had to shorten the pilot shaft 5/8" to work with the early bellhousing. Other that that no problems. The Wizzard
It can't possibly be "square" with two bolts secured. As above loosen the BH and tighten the PP ***embly then reinstall the BH. Probably no grinding involved!
Or it could be that not having all the bolts in that it is lifting, I always get all the bolts started then tighten them up a little at a time. it takes longer but that is how I do it. Or it could be that the guy at Jegs just picked up the wrong box and shipped it.
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