Projects Trying to get my Banger to Freeway speeds???

Ok, needs some advice, help, ideas.. whatever.
Last Aug, I purchased this 1929 Ford Tudor.


Link to a bunch of pics.
https://picasaweb.google.com/105421993671397259537/1929Ford?authkey=Gv1sRgCLm6oP3yhsOm9AE#

Here is what I know about it:
Total frame off restoration 1929 Model-A. Driver quality. (in my opinion)
Rebuilt motor, bored 30 over. (but I can't prove that, the seller said 30, then during a phone call, said 10?.) Serial Number on the motor is A4181609
Stainless steel valves.
Touring cam shaft, (don't know the grind)
Leakless water pump.
High compression head. 5.5-1 from Snyders.
Lightened and balanced fly wheel.
V8 clutch.
T-5 five speed transmission. (The tag was so badly rusted we can't read it..)
It has the T-5 to A rear , open driveshaft kit from Auto Restorations in Muncie, IN.
40 Ford Hydraulic brakes.
New L&B interior, and paint job,
Front axel rebuilt, New king pins. Rebuilt steering box, short pitman arm .
New 16 inch Coker Classics. Wheels powder coated.
New bearings and seals in rear end.
New safety glass
Electric windshield wiper
Turn signals
New chrome bumpers
New radiator
New top, wood kit.
New seat springs.

Rums good, Can't seem to stop the Carb from leaking? Even after turning off the gas and let it run out.

OK, here's my dilemma.. I want to be able to run with the hot rod guys locally to some shows, but best I have been able to do is 55 maybe 58 MPH they get up on the freeway, there gone!

My good friend Scott (MEYER on the HAMB) came over today in a frekin blizzard and we went to the storage unit and jacked it up so we could look for the Tranny tag and count the revs on the Driveshaft.
look at this pic: 12 Degrees, a gazillion MPH wind, ...


Anyway...so I can't ID the tranny. to find out the final gear ratio.
I do have all the receipts from the build, and found the tranny came from a 1991 S10 with a 2.8 V6 Reg. Cab Short Bed 2WD. (if that helps)
We jacked it up and found 1 full rev of the tire produced 1 3/4 rev of the driveshaft. So, how do I figure that out?

My thought process is do I have enough rear end ratio to get it on the freeway and if not, what rear end and ratio should I look for ?
Or do I need a different T5?

I read on another HAMB post that if it had 3:94's (?) and I went to 3:53 or 7(? I don't remember the exact number)) I would only pick up a couple MPH... any thoughts on that???

I changed out the Dizzy with a "BUBBA"S" unit, that made a big difference... starts nice, runs smooth.
I am thinking about Headers and a single downdraft conversion too.

So, guys, got this Banger, which I love, but i'll consider trading or selling to get something I can tour with, If I can't seem to get this figured out. Any help would be appreciated...

TIEROD..

 

My A ran about 56 max before my high compression head. Its a Lion Speed head 7:1 compression.
I run at 65 now. It will go faster but the car makes unhappy noises. I have electronic ignition,Model B cam.....and SU carburetors on a Stainless header. I carefully rebuilt the rear axle and that made a difference too. I'm using theF150 overdrive

 

manyocars: thanks, looks good... I am keeping a higher compression head as a idea too...

 

I had the Volvo overdrive, HC head and I could do 80 all day long and did, car is now in Germany and runs the autobahn

 

I am going to follow this thread because i am interested to see what you find out.

I am also zeroing in on the carb problem. A couple of things about Model A's that will cause flooding. One is a bad shut off valve in the bottom of the tank or debris in it. The other is the carb needle & seat or sunk float. When you shut it down, close the tank valve and let it stall out. Then take your choke rod and turn it clockwise until the valve stops, don't force it. See if it stops leaking.

It could be that you carb needs work and the car is low on power.
The car should have a 3.78 : 1 rear end. That was most common.

 

I'm gonna tag along too- just inherited an AR--

 

1-3/4 revolution, rotating just one tire, on an open differential, would be like 3.5 if you rotated both.

So, your rear ratio is likely about 3.5:1.

If you miscalculated slightly, you probably have the customary 3.78:1

Does the transmission have a decal on the top? That would have the code on it too.

There were two gear sets. One had a 0.86:1 overdrive. The other had a 0.72:1 overdrive.

If you have the latter, you are probably over-geared.

 

You need a tachometer to see what it is turning at freeway speeds.

 

Yup.

 

This is the secondat time you poster that picture! And i still love it!
Thise lion head are awesome, they just yells power.

I would say that transmission and is 70 pro cent of what makes your cars too speed.

Changing from one carb to two, dosent change your top speed, it can at best widen your power band, and in worst case just steal fuel. They need a little some to make something.
But twin carbs will make a different.

There would be no good reason to run an OD behind a gearbox with a OD fifth.
That would just be silly, unless there is absolutely no other rear and ratios to
Have.

 

Reading the engine specs and looking at your photos you almost all the ingredients to run highway easy
the only thing I would change put a downdraft manifold with a Stromberg 97
I think your just short carburation
I have a very simular set that will cruz at 70-80 mph all day and not anywhere near redline

 

I quick look at google, steered me to Snyder's, and they sell 3.27, 3.54, 3.78 and 4.11 sets for your rear.

There lies you salvation! Then the big question is will that banger and T5 be able to pull a 3.27? Or would that require a granny first?

3.78 is acirding to Snyder's the stock ratio for model a bangers, cars and truck and 3.54 is for 31 cars.

But that would make a big change to your top speed.

 

Hotrodmyk: I did do the shut off tank valve, till it stalls, still leaks a bit, enough to smell up the garage bad. it will dampen a rag put under it, but I can never see it drip.
I'll try the choke.
The carb (I was told), had a complete rebuild. I did buy a new needle and seat kit, just in case.
gimpyshotrods, "Does the transmission have a decal on the top" Don't know, I'll pull the floor up, and look, thanks.
Unkl Ian, "You need a tachometer to see what it is turning at freeway speeds" I was going to wait to get a tach, when I convert to 12V. maybe I can borrow one...
colinsmithson, "the only thing I would change put a downdraft manifold with a Stromberg 97" That is on my hit list".
volvobrynk I am looking at the gear set at Snyders, as a option too. Some ware on the hamb, I read just dropping one set, only gained 3-4 MPH.. not enough for the cost.? Maybe with a 97 or 81 downdraft and headers too?.

I do know first is short, quick to 2nd, then good distance to 3rd, fair into 4th, (which is perfect for city traffic).and seemed like a good rpm drop in 5th, put would not pull very much harder?
Thanks for the advice ... It's kind'a hard to work on in the storage unit, no heat, no elect. We were over there yesterday, 30 MPH winds and snow, froze out tuchies off, so did not get much done.

 

If you can get the power on the top end with the carb, I think you can pull the car w the higher gear sets.

But, it appears you have 600's on the rear? How bout you try 750's. I believe that circumference will net the rpm drop the gears will.

Maybe a buddy has a a set?

My old Tudor was on the freeway yesterday. Stock motor inside, Simmons 6.1-1, 97 on a Bc chop it intake, gearhead header, FS distributor. Stock trans/rear.
But now has 17" wires w 600 16 type height. 60-62 is really it without it wound all to hell.

Adding tires or the gears would bring it to the higher 60's.

Same deal on a tudor I had with a Jern overhead, v8 trans, and a Mitchell 15% overdrive. 600 16's out back. Would cruise comfortable 63, could go more but I'd rather have 750's to help w the rpm.

Had another coupe w a stock b motor, had a police head that was shaved, 94,fs,reds dual headers, v8 clutch and lightened flywheel but stock trans. Had 354 gears. With 750's I could do 62 64 comfortably.

Hope this helps some.

 

is it just me, or is a model a at more than 60 per a scary thought?

 

It's just you.

 

Depends on the steering gear....

 

Most of the restorers have been using converted F100 steering boxes seems to calm them down at Hwy. speed.

 

And the brakes..

 

OP car looks to be lowered some and with good springs/shocks/brakes should not be dangerous..On nice roads..Hit a batch of bad road and different story..Its not that they can't handle bad roads, hell wasn't much good roads when they were new its just they weren't meant for 65+..Tell your buds to stick to two lane state roads and the ride should be great...

 

Should be a 3.78 rear, ideal with a T-5. Go for 7.00x16 rear tires, a single 97 and flog the piss out of it. Make sure your rear radius rods are up to the task of the open drive conversion, you probably need some triangulation somewhere - look at ladder bars and a torque arm for ideas. Got brakes? Time to spring for the Cling's master cylinder kit and Lincoln repro Bendix brakes for the front end...

 

A stock model a with Mec brakes and stock tires, yes and make grown men cry.

Hot rod, hell no! Would be great.

Where is the threat, that claims swapping rear end ratio would get much? I believe it should make a difference.

Tires change the total ratio too, speed is from a mechanical point of view: rpm x total ratio x length around the tire. So have:
Engine that can stand higher then stock Rpm circa longer time, check
Gearbox with OD, check

If it still wound move fast enough, change rear end ratio and or tire!

 

Mechanical brakes are traditional.

 

dump the 4 banger and stick a flathead or a 283 in it

 

So is rear ending the car in front of you while trying to do 90 in your banger

 

It's just you.
Here's one that goes a bit over 60.

 

Mechanical brakes are traditional,so is not being able to stop at highway speeds. If you want to run modern speeds you need more modern brakes.

 

Pick up a tach dwell unit the can be had cheap.

 

The brakes care not how they are applied, fluid or rods. The margial part is the stock A rolled steel drums, cast drum upgrade makes a lot of difference.

 

if you got good brakes to stop you and got the front end right so you don't get the death wobble I think I would try taller tires on rear first.