Projects Trying to get my Banger to Freeway speeds???

OK< I am on the hunt for a TACH..
The Motor has been rebuilt, but I do not know by whom? Claimed to have a Cam and Stainless seats, and bored.I don't know about the Valves. It was a E-Bay motor. New Babbitt. I'll dig through my papers I gt from the seller. (he gave me a box full)

 

You might just be taxing that little 4 banger pulling that weight and that t-5. You need some torque to pull and that 4 banger won't do it. S-10's had a 4 cylinder but it had alot more torque &hp than your flat four. My 292 inline six has t-5 from a camero and I have plenty of torque even to pull a 24' boat!

 

He's not doing better enough to keep up with his buddies. I think that is the point is that his buddies run off and leave him.

 

I know I use a lot of emoji icons, to ensure that people that I don't know well Mis-reads my post. And that might be why I Mis-read your post.
And because I had a BAD day at work. my bad. Apologize all around.

That sounds like a good Ideer! [emoji2][emoji106]

 

Buy of borrow a portable Tach dwell unit I see them used for $10 to$15.

 

SUNBEAM: thanks, I'll look around,,,

 

To clarify about his friends leaving him...

I am his friend. My model T only goes 35mph, downhill, on ice, with a tail wind and a sail attached. I am not the one leaving him.

Bill, I have a portable tach/dwell unit. I didn't think of using that until it was mentioned above.

 

http://secretsofspeed.com/

 

MEYER:
"I am his friend. My model T only goes 35mph, downhill, on ice, with a tail wind and a sail attached. I am not the one leaving him. "...
That's with a bunch of us pushing too.. TOO funny...but true statement.

as soon as it's warm enough to get out and work, let's hook it up, and get some good RPM readings.
We should fiddle with the Choke\High Speed adjust too..

UNKL IAN:Thanks for the speed link, need to get my piggy bank out ...Gota order a pin..love it.

 

Tierod, thanks for starting this thread. I have learned a lot. Also after living this myself, I learned one very important thing about stock or semi stock A engines. They are what they are, a nice 45-55 mph cruiser. My friend Don has a Murray bodied 4dr and after riding in it, I was impressed. 60-65 ALL day long. Hills didn't matter, so I asked about his mods and this is what I learned. Winfield head and he swore that was all he was told. Later we found out that it was not an A motor at all. It was a B motor and there is a difference. I see a roadster in my future and no doubt, it will remain a banger, so I hope you find the secret and post the results when you do. It will save a lot of folks a headache.

 

CHEEPSK8: yes "Size Matters" ,,, I'm chasing the HP thoughts too.
I have a 5.5 - 1 head, and may use UNKL IAN: suggestion of "Secrets of Speed" and snag a higher compression Head. Still on the table is Flatty or other small V8... but again, money and work space has to be considered.

 

Meyer I was going off of this statement.

yep @ 35 you are not running highway speeds and he is no doubt the one able to run off and leave. its a funny thing to me because I was not around back then but when I hear of a fella building a banger powered rod it just doesn't register hot rod in my mind. I know that they were souped up gow jobs way back when but like I said I was not around then. Not to take the cool factor away from anyone's ride just an observation.

 

It is kinda funny to think about, but prior to 1940, most lakes records were held by souped-up bangers! Here's an excerpt from the 1937 Muroc races detailing the fact that a "Winfield flat head job with Bertrand cam and 6:1 compression ratio holds the record here at the Lakes; 121.62 M.P.H."


Even the hi-tech guys still held fast to the banger banner - see Arnold Birner's A-on-Deuce rails (one of the first such combos)...it featured a Riley 4-port banger with 4 carbs and generally kicked V8 ass in 1940.




Problem today is that most guys want the easy checkbook rodder speed & power fix. You gotta work to make power with a 'banger, but it's possible

 

Hey Gwhite

Only one pic came up, rest look broken to me.

What is the bell housing used on that hot banger.
It looks to be separated from the box, and with 4 bolts

 

We used to mill stock heads .090 but you have to use a washer under the distributor. For good model A info. go to Piranios Antique Automotive site.

 

Links should be fixed now.

That transmission is a stock A tranny. Check out the chromed flywheel housing and extra oil fill!!

 

sunbeam: Thanks for the link, I like that Weber carb Setup...,
gwhite: That banger is super...that's a lot of motor...

 

OK, Here's the plan:
Thanks to meyer: for keeping me focused...
As soon as the weather brakes, and we can roll out the 29....
Establish a clear baseline of where it is now, both mph and rpm’s. That will tell us where we are starting from.
Then figure out exactly what gears and transmission.
Then we assess the gap and how much it would cost to close the gap.
Are you at 60mph at a decent rpm now and we just need another 5mph or are you at 53mph at an already high rpm and the gap would be too much $$$ to close.
We are going to borrow a 6V Dwell Tach, to track rpm's
Were going to see if the tag on the top of the trans is till there, as the one on the back is coated in rust.

 

Model A Ring & pinion gear ratios:

There are four different gear ratios available for the Model A Ford differential. The 378 ratio is the standard and is most often found in a differential. The majority of Model A Fords were produced with the 378. The 411 ratio was used for lower gearing and was generally installed in commercial pick-ups, station wagons, or other vehicles expected to haul heavy loads or climb steep hills. The 354 ratio was an after market ratio used for higher gearing and became generally available when the nations roads were greatly improved after the Model A era. The 370 ratio was used in the very early 1928 cars that are generally referred to as an AR car. The physical shape of the pinion gear is different than the other ratios and is not interchangeable. An AR drive shaft is required with the use of the 370 ring & pinion gear set. To determine the ratio of a gear set count the number of teeth on both gears and divide the smaller number into the larger number.


Ring - pinion - Ratio
34 9. 3.78:1

37 9 4.11:1

39 11. 3.54:1

37 10 3.70:1

 

I am glad to see you regained your focus Bill

 

Even with 4.11 gears and 28" tall tires my guess yours are more like 30" and your t5 is at least 20% overdrive you are under 2400 rpm at 60 with 3.78s you are under 2200 .

 

There are also 3.27 gears currently available (not an original ratio). I would think these would take a light car with a strong motor.

Charlie Stephens

 

That's what I'm thinking-
That little banger should turn 2400 rpm no problem with the stock carb.
Something is holding it back. The tune or a tired engine.

 

bobwop: we gon'a do some homework..
31Vicky with a hemi: thanks for the info, but I would have to split the rear end to count the teeth?
Charlie Stephens: looked up on Snyder's, gears set are $$$ WOW...

 

31Vicky with a hemi: The seller calmed a rebuilt engine and carb. it has a new BUBBA's Dist , tuned by him.
With some of the trouble I have had with the carb, that may be the first place I look. A downdraft 94 or webber is penciled in. So, 2400 is the red line number I need to look at, when we start the review process?

 

No, you should have a red line much higher than 2400. Especially in lower gears

Can you not hear the Rpms?

 

you can easily calculate your rear end ratio without opening the diff. It is very simple. the ratio of number of crankshaft revolutions per revolution of a wheel.

 

31Vicky with a hemi: I can hear the revs ok, but what is the red line ? I'm going through the gears, when we start watching the Dwell Tach, what rpm is the top.. Right now, 5th gear, flat out, does not sound as high a rpm as say 1st and 2nd flat out.?
bobwop: do I jack up both back wheels, and be in 5th? Wouldn't the trans ratio mess that theory up? wouldn't that test tell me the final ration of the tran, not the rear end? I'm setting here drawing little circles on a piece of paper...

 

The process to check by turning driveshaft was explained early in this thread, by someone

 

Bill: you will need to have the transmission in neutral and only jack up one wheel