I doubt that the lower end is strong enough for any worthwhile amount of boost. Also, these are low rpm motors and unless I am mistaken not good candidates for turbocharging. At least one person on the HAMB is running a vintage centrifugal supercharger.
I have sure thought about it. There was a guy named **** Datsun (I think) who sold a newsletter several years back about gr***roots, home brewed turbocharging that I subscribed to. He claimed that a mopar 6 flatie was a good canidate for a low rpm boost job. He siad to rob a junkyard turbo from a motor about 3/4 the size of the flattie. THis small turbo would spool up quick, and run out of boost before overboosing the motor. Maybe a turbo off of one of these newer 4 bangers, like from a 140 inch ford, or some jap car would work. I'm thinking I'll try it someday. Joel
Don't know about the lower end, but low rpm engines work just fine with a turbo. Just size the turbo and plumbing to work in harmony with the engine, not 2,000 rpm above its red line. Its quite possible to get 7 psi @ 2,000 rpm. Most any engine will take a 7 psi boost, giving about a 40% performance increase and do it with less engine stress than the conventional hop up techniques of raising compression and rpm. The problem is the temptation to turn the 7 into 17. Don't get greedy. Bill
FYI i just looked up the website of the guy with the turbo newsletter that I reffered to in my last post. http://www.studebakerclubs.com/21stCenturyTurbo/default.htm
Iv been thinking about this for along time. As for turbo applications, the only thing i could think of being a problem is the heat created by the exhaust possibly cracking the exhaust ports. A supercharger, however, is very possible. Been in the back of my mind for awhile
I think I have seen on some flathead Mopar posts here, that it was a good candidate, solely due to it's inherent durability..................... Along with the mindset that B Blue posted, and I think it would work swell...........
There is a site regarding a turbo charged flat 6 studebaker, just google turbo stude. If the little champ engine could benefit don't know why the mopar 218 or 230 wouldn't be similarly poaitively effected. Not a MOPAR (looks like a Continental or a Hercules) but the plumbing looks doable. The smaller the turbo the better Saab Volvo, early Chrysler 2.2/2.5, The Su carb would give good mixture adjustability also. Running the fuel/air charge through the turbo isn't a real good idea due to the heating issues from compressing it, but with this short run, it probably not a problem at moderate RPM. The low factory compression ratio atually plays well with low to moderate boost.
Thanks for the replies! Hemi Joel: I rec'd ****'s newsletters for years, til he stopped publishing a while back.
Check out the websites below in the signature. I used a 190" Stude which brought home records from the salt. 137mph in a stude coupe. 17# boost. 240 hp. 290 ft-lbs torque. Old stuff relied on thickness and stock forged parts. http://biophiz.com/Turbocharging the Champ flathead six.htm
This has been an interesting thread. Now I'm a member of a Yahoo turbo group, that is moderated by **** Dotson. Anyway, while looking around, I found this **** Dotson book; THE AMERICAN MOTORS PERFORMANCE ENGINE BOOK http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/THE-...Motors_Manuals_Literature?hash=item2eaa344d23 Here is his Ebay store: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/gatorsupercharger/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=
A Mopar six can be made to rev. The problem lies in the oil supply to 5/6 journal. There are tricks to overcome this, involving crossdrilling the crank and reshaping the oil flow p***ages. Over on the Inliners site there is a forum for flathead Mopars, and Hud (or Hudsonator) details in minute detail the steps they took to get their six turning at 6000rpm for their tractor pull rig. It's a huge thread, so be prepared to spend some time there. Mopar sixes are good candidates for forced induction due to their valves not being shrouded like flathead V8s.
Yes, I'm a member a his Yahoo group, and own a couple older editions of his blow-thru turbo books. Here's his current site: http://www.gatorsuperchargers.net/
Yeh, I need to clean up the site again.......If you need specific pics, I probably can find them for you..... Thanks for look'n
The best thing any turbo newbie can do is buy Corky Bell's old book. It runs you through all the basics, and he briefly covers carbs+turbos. Best $18 you will spend if you are serious about this. http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1263880341&sr=1-1 Turbos work with anything as long as you size them correctly. Learn how to read a compressor map and do the appropriate calculations. Then it's just plumbing.
I did.. heres a few things things that will hem ya up.. first off stock rings are cast iron.. there not going to hold up to boost, secondly the crank is a 4 main crank. thirdly its got a 5" stroke even with out boost the cylenders tend to balloon out. it would be cool as hell if ya made it work.. but on a working mans budget i don't think it can work.
we turbo'd our model b flathead with a stock crank, modified stock rods, and a cracked cast iron winfield head. we did well enough to set a bunch of records at bonneville at 150+ mph. someone above is totally right though; the additional heat will exploit any weak spots in the ports/block. we blow a head gasket almost every run. that's the price you pay to go fast.
Rings can be fixed. Find a newer piston of the same diameter and machine your piston to use the newer model ring. Wimpy bottom end just means that moderation is the key. I've seen some 1300cc Japanese mizer mills turbocharged and they make those things out of tinfoil and toilet paper. Shoot for 3.5 to 4.5psi at first just to get things running. 6.5-7psi is probably going to be "high boost" for this thing. If at all possible go with a blow through carb (turbo before carb) rather than draw through (carb before turbo). It's harder to do, but dramatically better in every other way. You can build an airbox to surround your stock carb and extend the throttle shaft through the side (sealed up of course). EFI would be even better. The 1bbl tbi unit off an Iron Duke might be a good place to start looking. The key to making it live is to avoid knock, and that's easier to regulate with EFI. Also look at J&S knockgaurd. Good system, pulls timing when it detects detonation. Works with electronic or points ignition. Add an o2 sensor to the exhaust and they have a monitor with an a/f ratio meter. Good tuning tool for carb or EFI. Hell, I want one for the Edsel and I'm not doing anything nearly this aggressive. Not cheap, but cheaper than a blown motor.
For the street think Diesel not racing Porsche. Kaiser and Graham Paige supercharged their similarly designed flat 6's, with pretty much the same stroke. Which was depending on displacement either 4 3/8 (218) or 4 5/8 (230) long but not 5 inches. The Kaiser went from 118 HP to 140, and the Graham from 107 to 120 so 13 to 15 hp. You use a small turbo and tune it to do its work between 2000 and 3500 rpms. Mopar pistons are oval ground to allow for expansion and better sealing. Intake tunners are short. Weak spot as noted above would be on the short block mopar's Dodge and Plymouth, the pairs of cylinders are siamesed and the head gasket is thin in the area between the pairs. The Chyrsler and De Soto engines are 1 1/2 longer and the cylinders are evenly spaced so they would probably take the pressure better. But properly set up I would think a turbo aplication operating below 4000 engine rpms would be a reliable engine. Later 230 were 125 hp putting 15 or 20 more on would make a nice improvement. look for a Garrett T28 or Mitsubishi TD05 turbos spool up faster,Garrett T28 or Mitsubishi TD05 turbos spool up faster, but limit boost.
I have a pile of thin books on using turbo chargers as blowers, which works only on small cubic inch motors. Just belt it, and plumb it, moderate boost and real cheap. And no worries about heat build up. If I can find the folder they are in, I'll put more info. I thought they were also by **** Datsun.
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