Alright guys, question.... I have a 56 Chevy truck with a 1980 z28 rear end. I had a axle company in Chattanooga cut my original 56 dive shaft to length and install new Spicer u joints. I went to install the drive shaft and quickly noticed 3 problems. 1, the caps are too small for the cradle in the yoke (straps do not make contact with the caps). 2, the u joint is nowhere near wide enough for the yoke (a lot of side to side movement) and 3, the yoke doesn't have the tabs on it to center the u joint in the yoke. The u joint fit the drive shaft just fine. How do I fix this? Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
the drive shaft company will probably swop out the u joint for a special one that has two different sized ends. make sure you get the part number!
1310 series joints are typically car / light truck size. 1350 series are larger truck size. They make combination joints that have both sizes in one joint. A net search will probably list physical dimensions of each version.
1310 cup size is 1.062", 1330 is 1.125". 1310 width across the cups is 3.218" and I forget what the 1330 is, but you can do some homework. You probably need a combo joint like Chucky suggests. Measure up your yoke between the 2 little ears that locate the cups and you know the diameter is not 1.062". Got a circle template? Make up some paper circles. Big plus, you know what the rear is, see what joint that takes.
Inland Empire (great guys who helped me out one time on the road) list sizes in their online shop. Useful reference. Buy from them or from them via Summit. https://www.iedls.com/#Online_Store|4 Chris
Take the drive shaft back where you had it made. Along with the yoke from the rear. (or at least rear info) They will get you the right u joint to adapt what you have, or they can change the end of the drive shaft to match your rear and then you will need a standard joint. Not a problem either way.
I think what the guys are telling you is that you need to measure stuff and figure it out yourself, or measure stuff and take pictures and let us help you figure it out, or take it back to where you got it, and let them figure it out. Any way will work...
I've used combo u-joints for years. Even tho your not using one 9" Fords also had quite a few yokes and having a drives shaft made without all the measurements will cause head aches.
If they knew what your set up was, I'd take it back to them and have them give you the correct u-joint.
It looks like there are some if's and's and other's when it comes to the rear U joint for an 80 Camaro Z28. This page shows the various ones that "could" fit the Z 28 rear end and shows measurements and clips or no clips. and it might help in the measuring part. Other option is to haul the car to the drive shaft shop and let them put it on the hoist and do the figuring and head shaking. And probably a little laughing at your expense. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...el=Camaro&vi=5001313&year=1980&make=Chevrolet
Most of the 70's GM cars used the 1330 (T400 style) u joint. Sounds like you just need a conversion joint , like the old 3022X Spicer. (internal snap rings locate it on the flange.)
The answer is 5-3022x for a Spicer u-joint due to the driveshaft being 1310 series and the pinion yoke being 3R/S44 series. Precision can cross that number too. With having said that, if I was the guy that had modified that shaft, I would've listened to your application and changed the rear weld yoke to straight up 3R to save later headaches and extra u-joint cost. 1310= 1.062 caps, 3.469" outside of caps, outside snap ring. 3R= 1.125 caps, 2.562 between machined yoke ears, inside snap ring. As Squirrel says, they used injected nylon to hold the original caps on the 3R application. Mark had it correct also. And I'm going by scarred hands memory, no books. The bearing journal diameter is .657".
Read it, learn it, live it... http://www.carquestprofessionals.com/catalogs/drivetrain/2013_UJ_CATALOG_CQ.PDF
The Jalopy Journal
