When both ends are threaded, you use one left and one right. Turning the bar lengthens and shortens it. It is infinitely adjustable in length to any fraction of an inch while in place. If just one end is threaded then Right hand threads would be easiest. This is adjustable but only in 1/2 turns of the tread pitch and only after you move it out of position. There are mail order ch***is shops that you can find online. The reason I say this is - Good 5/8 taps ain't cheap and a left hand tap ain't cheaper. Cheap taps cut choppy bugared threads, not something you want. it's a ***** to hold the tube from spinning without marring it. Then it's a ***** to get the tap dead nuts straight into the tube. A lathe with a collet chuck is the best way to do this job. I can't find the sight or remember the name but I've dealt with one that was fantastic. Their prices were more than fair too. I'll have to look thru my papers but they are out there.
I'm sure Behling can do it for you. They also sell DOM and taps. http://www.behlingracing.com/behling-info/contact/
Thanks just checked out both shops, and I am going with Behling racing. They have all the parts, a good price, and are in WI. I was a Toolmaker for 13 years, and I agree, buy quality taps. I am also lucky enough to have a old lathe and a mill in the garage, makes some things easier. 1 by 1 I am finishing up some small things on the truck. I might have a chance to make it to the H.A.M.B. drags. Tony
I've bought small quan***ies of odd-sized metals from SpeedyMetals before. Much cheaper than I could get locally, and I didn't need to buy a whole stick.
if you need some short pieces of 7/8" OD DOM tubing i have a bunch of .188 wall ...you would have to drill it out first before taping. i also have a 5/8-18 left hand tap if you need one and don't want to buy
Thanks to 36-3window, I have my DOM tubing, I will have my clevis's tomorrow. I already had my bushings, but now that I am looking at the size of the tubing I think my bushings are to small. The OD is 1", and 1 3/8 long it uses a 3/8 bolt. I think I should get bigger ones, that are 1.5 OD and 2 5/16 length. Lets here your thoughts, and if you have a good spot to buy them. Tony
refresh my memory....is this going to be for a panhard bar or a locating bar like in the picture of the jag setup? what are you building? pictures?
It is going to be a locating bar like in the in the picture. I am building a 1937 dodge pickup. It will have a mild 318 (350 hp) with a 5spd. It will be a full fendered truck that I plan on racing every now and then.
Here is where I'm working. This is my first time building a truck. I just keep reading and asking questions. Tony
i think the sleeves/bushings you have now will be fine being a machinist you probably already know , but you need to drill out that DOM with a 37/64 drill before taping
Stock Car Steel has all kinds of DOM tubing - and Aircraft Spruce has lots of 4130 tubing available by the foot, and a very nice catalog with tons of stuff to use on builds.
Greg, got a chart on the garage wall. nmpontiac, that gives me another spot to look. I hope to have them done and installed by this weekend.
I got the rods built, now I am trying to decide on the mounting. Do I keep the bushings straight to the frame or the mount on the rearend. Everyone likes pics.
31Vicky, there is no swing or movement on this part, it is just for locating. I do know there will be pressure on them when starting and stopping, I just don't know if mounting at a angle to the frame will put unneeded pressure causing premature failure of the bushings. in the end it might not matter, but I am still going to ask. Tony
I was referring to how it will move into position to be bolted or unbolted and serviced, painted, what ever. Ever work on something the needs forced into position and then lines up once it's in, I'm saying to avoid that for yourself. The frame bracket will distribute the load universally to the bushing because it's double shear. I doubt it will see much wear
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