Unchopping a chopped 57 Ford Ranchero windshield

I commend you for taking on such an involved project! The work your doing looks great and im following your build as well.

 

Thanks alot for the positive feedback!

 

With one panel in place it is easier visualize what is required... the repro panels are oversized requiring the edges to be trimed... open up the area to be replaced which depending on your floor it may not require full floor replacement...

 

laying out welds mimic the factory spot welds... basically space out & drill your locations... compress contact area & weld

 

Nice build thread, subscribed!

 

I appreciate the work and dedication involved. I also like changes that are not always noticed. Great work. Thanks for the photos.

 

I like this view a lot better than when we started

 

Closing in the gap... they make these panels flanged but keeping with the way Henry made stuff we (I have a mouse in my pocket) butt welded everthing but where the factory lapped them... and as one would pridict the last panel wasn't an easy fit

 

THANKS GUYS!

That kind of support makes all these days of coming in from the garage completely covered with metal shavings and grinding wheel grit a little more satisfying!

 

Yes, I should have chimed in sooner. Very nice work. I have been following this from the start. Keep posting!!!!

 

Panel in - panel out - panel in - measure three times - trim - trim again... and the gaps seem to move with every weld... all for an area covered with carpet on one side and undercoating on the other... sounds like the warning from the TV shows - feat is being done by a trained professional don't try this at home (garage)... I have to keep reminding myself why... to justify the use of NOS parts that are worth more than the car I started with... so I keep telling Scott

 

and... if your having way to much fun... lets see if it gets any more interesting down under... the gravity of sparks when you have no place to go just makes a day more interesting... at least when everything is structurually sound it will be moved to a rotisserie for completion



The underside illustrates that even though minimal attention will be required to the underside these cars were notorious for floor rust because the passenger compartment padding held moistue... the less expensive line came with rubber mats that cracked or were punctured that let moisture in but didn't let it dry out

 

This picture was from the beginning of the thread but I thought it might make sense for it to be here too... this area was out in the elements (cover panel wasn't sealed) and the factory paint still shines...

 

So cool to watch this car come together!!! thanks for posting progress pics!

 

this detail of the photo above shows that the floor doesn't fit tight against the crossbrace... doesn't make sense - just the way it was made... I wanted to point this out because if someone was replacing everthing on a car that was completely rusted away it would be misleading trying to make it fit tight in this area... repro braces listed as third row don't include the center - factory wasn't one piece

 

Repro panel are designed to overlap and we if weren't going to an OEM finish I question the advantages... butt welding only has the advantage of looks and eliminating a moisture trap.. overlap would be stronger and easier... comments and/or opinions/experience might be helpful for someone reading these in preparation for doing thier floor...

 

Id be intrested in knowing the better choice....butt vs overlap....any body guys wanna chime in????

 

Thank you for putting your Floor repair tutorial out for us. I have a '58 2 door wagon that I have just bought floor pans for and will be doing the same very soon. You've just made my work alot easier. I enjoy your build.

Thanks again.

 

when the welding is completed and dressed off the floor sections will blend seamlessly together... not bad for a combination of donor parts, original, and repro

 

We joined the repro sections to the bed floor under the back cab panel... which it hides any sign of modification but requires that all the welds and dressing them off has to be done from the bottom side

 

the floor and the rocker panel are spot welded to what I refer to the rocker backer... if there is a correct name please post it... anyways, it is a heavier guage angle that runs from the cowl to the rear wheel if you look closely at this photo you can see the gap between the floor and rocker panels... we will show the rocker panels removed next and it will be a little clearer

 

mine has a two piece floor in the cargo area itsa 58 were they all like that ?
guess you answered this months ago thanks

 

this photo shows the rockers removed... and the panel I'm refering to the rocker backer is now visable... even though the rockers weren't that bad from the outside... I was surprised at the amount of undetectable rust one they were removed

 

Hey cool, I have a 59 2 door wagon!

I normally hear it called the inner rocker panel.

I also want to thank you for posting the floor work, very informative!

 

The inner rocker panl is now exposed... by looking at the last photo it is easy to see how the front section was fit in since that portion was blasted before it was installed... the unprotected original section is darker... note that the lower cap was cut away also and will be covered later

 

This photo was posted earlier... it shows a good overall shot where before we begin the rocker replacement...

 

WOW! This is cool!

 

This is probably a dum question, but I assume you'll put seam sealer over all the joints?

 

Not sure... the factory didn't and it will never see any level of abuse that a good sealer/undercoat wouldn't take care of... but that would be logical step to do