Under floor insulation? - case in point

I am glad I found this, thanks Scooter. Lots of good info.

 

OK then here's my follow up question: Do I just clean up the bottom of the floor pan, follwed by a thorough scuffing & then shoot the bottom with an epoxy primer? After that dries, is that all the foudation for good adhesion for LS or the generic substitue listed within this thread? I have a real issue with spraying a water based coating over primer metal (yeah, I know there is water based color that is now shot on new cars).
So what is the procedure?

 

I sealed the bottom of the 32 3W with a good grade of primer. Then I shot the " heat type " Lizard Skin. Then I painted the bottom with shiny BLACK.



I also sprayed the inside of the coupe. Floors, doors, roof ... everything.
I did buy their spray applicator gun.





I also added DynaMat ... I have Vintage Air in the little coupe and I wanted it to get COLD ... when I turned on the A/C
A side benefit is the coupe is very quiet inside. No road noise ... barely hear the V8 ...

Makes for a great road trip car.
I am very HAPPY ... with the Lizard Skin.

 

You do realize that the actual Lizard skin is water based as well right? The aerosol bed liner will trap just as much water underneath it as any of the other materials if it gets compromized and water can get behind it.

 

Okay guys... Little update. Getting ready to do the Lizard Skin. Surfaces are primed sealed, etc...





Even going to do some inside stuff...

 

OKAY! Now that the sheet metal is ready, I'm finding that I'M not ready! I have some questions and could use some tips on this stuff...

LS says to put the Sound Control down before the Ceramic Insulation when using both. Going to do both, so I'll be doing that. I'll say this, though. Not much else in the way of directions with the exception of a few suggestions on clean up and storage.

I'm going to be running the gun with just the siphon hose. Do you guys find that it's easier to cart the whole friggin' pale around or should I mix up some in a separate container/bucket to pull from? Also, what should I be running for pressure on this gun?

My next question is... I have to get BEHIND the interior support structures and I have a few other panels to mask so they don't get coating. Is regular masking tape best and should I pull it immediately after coating (which would mean masking AGAIN before going in with CI) so the edges don't stick, or just leave it on until I'm completely done with both the SC and CI coats?

I could use some tips! Thanks guys!

 

(crickets)

Anyone? Bueller? Lizard Skin application people??

 

Smaller batches....a little goes a long way...either that or you will be real strong carting that tub of sound control around. As far as pressures are concerned you aren't using the same gun as I am....can't help ya there.

Normal tape is fine....if you wait until it's dry you'll have to score the tape line with a razor....I found to pull the tape while it was still drying but not totally cured....nearest recollection was about 45 min.....don't pull tape between coats let it ride for both....even if you wait till its totally dry it won't give ya too much hassle....maybe a hanger here n there but that's all....all easily cleaned up.

 

Yeah... Haha! Thanks! Good point! That bucket weighs about 30 pounds. Literally!

What about masking?

 

We use LS on just about every car that comes through the shop. I like it.

I don't remask between products because I've found it isn't neccessary. Shoot all your coats. Clean your gun. Put on some fresh gloves and get a razor blade. Peel the tape up with the razor blade and your gloved hands. Turns out really nice.

 

Great! Thanks!

What about air pressure for their application gun?

 

I use straight compresor pressure. As we have a number of bitches in the shop all using air tools at the same time, I'd guess that I usually shoot the stuff at around 100- 130lbs.

I never really worry about it to be honest. Once you spray it, you'll understnd why.

 

Okay... Good to know. Thanks!

 

Dave - no that's not me. Funny picture though. I really need to change avatar picture. FWIW - if it were me, both hats would be way smaller. HA HA.

 

Okay! Update!

I laid down the Lizard Skin! This stuff is AWESOME!!! It gets everywhere, so you really have to tape things off and spend the time masking, but it's easy to clean up and lays down nice!

The Sound Control system is good to go right out of the bucket. I mixed some up in a clean coffee container first. I set the gun at like 75 psi. Tried various pressures, but that seem to be the best. I used the hose siphon and it did okay, but found that it was best to suck a little up, and then just hold the hose up over the level of the gun while shooting it. A little goes a long ways, so it worked out good.

The Ceramic Insulation system was the easiest to put down. Wasn't quite as messy. BUT!!! I did have some clogging issues with it at ANY pressure. So, I add just a squirt of water to thin it out a bit. Then it laid down good at about 80 to 90 psi. It's SUPER lightweight and it dries a little quicker than the Sound Control.

I did the interior, tops and bottoms of the floor, bottom side of the tunnel and trans cover, bottom of cowl top, inside cowl panels, and I did both sides of the firewall. I will eventually be painting over the top of everything with a medium Grey semi-gloss. But for now, until I get to the final paint stage of the process with the body, it will stay as-is.











With the masking pulled. Looking forward to everything being one color.

 

I shot my truck bed with Raptor bedliner from tcpglobal, first time using this brand and I was impressed with the results. Ive shot 6 bedliners using 2 other brands, and will be using Raptor in the future. Ive yet to try lizardskin or the other interior sound deadening sprays.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/GoogleSear...w97pxaalkte&cof=FORID:11&q=bedliner&sa=Search

 

Scooter; when lizard skin sets up, does it remain rubbery to the touch or does it harden up like paint? I figure it's been a year so you'd know by now. Is it tough enough to use as the only floor covering, or do you need to cover it?

Thanks in advance...

 

Lizardskin dries hard...it IS paint.

 

It does get hard and you can paint right over it. I'm going to use it as my floor covering and just paint a semi-gloss over it. I really like the look of the texture it gets. I'm going to be doing this very soon, hopefully. I'm VERY happy with how it turned out and I definitely recommend this stuff. Was so easy to apply and easy to clean up any over-shooting.

The only thing I'll caution is, it does hold dirt a little more because of the texture. If you can, paint over it as soon as it is set and ready. I'm going to have a fun time getting mine clean before I paint it.

 

Quick and easy. Works great. Available everywhere. Cheap. Easy to apply.
Way better to have it inside under carpet, cause it can be layered and just bombed everywhere, but this interior isn't getting stripped.


Ain't an old hot rod, but an old BMW I'm putting a different drivetrain in it. Nailed it with the crud thug, brake cleaned it and scrubbed it down. Applied.

 

This may have been mentioned, since I have not read all the posts on this thread, but check out this website: www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Good products, and an informative website.

 

Thanks scooter. I'm trying to decide what to do with the floor and rear wheel well area of my '65 Coronet wagon, and have decided spraying on some kind of liner is the way I'm going. I've narrowed it down to LS or Monstaliner.

 

Lizardskin has both....heat and sound....heat coating has some deadener properties...but can be sprayed over with lizardskin sound deadener for added protection.....awesome stuff..used it in past..will keep useing it...