I spent the weekend working out some bugs on the roadster. Wired up the headlights - both high & low beam are on at the same time - guess I'll fix that tonight. Added the second radiator support rod. This fixed the majority of the radiator shake. I'm attributing the remaining shake to the large miss in the flatty. I got ambitous and pulled the right head and intake Saturday night. Found the source of the dead cylinders. Previous engine builders reused the original non-adjustable lifters but didn't bother to shorten the valves after grinding them. Of course there's minimal (or no) valve/lifter clearance. There were two exhaust valves burned. I had some valve assemblies and adjustable lifters from another engine, so replaced the two that were burned. All the valves need cleaned up/ground/clearances set, but that will have to wait until winter when I replace the cam. Put it back together and started the flathead. Still popping from one cylinder when it warms up, but much better overall. You've got to love the flathead - 2 1/2 hours to pull a head, the intake, replace & adjust two valves, put it back together and have it running again. Took the car on a 40 mile trip yesterday afternoon and it seems to run and drive good. I might rethink my thermostats - I used 160 degrees stats and I'm only running about 150 going down the road. I've double checked the gauge and it's correct. I really think alot of the radiator shake was due to the vibration from the engine missing so bad. The interior is now finished, but I don't have new pics yet. I'll have to repost a couple of the old ones.
Thanks for posting an update. Always nice to hear how it went. Not a criticism, but is there any color on/in your good looking mono-black roadster?
I'm a little slow, but back with a couple answers. Jay, I'm planning on putting an L-100 cam back in. I've got a core pulled and ready to send out for regrind. I've got an early, tall, no-name Weiend dual carb intake I'm going to use. The engine is still pumping alot of oil, so I'll at least rering it, but at that point why not go for a complete overhaul. Of course if I do that I might as well throw in a merc crank......... C9, right now it's primer black body, satin black running gear, off white/black seat, with a splattering of chrome. No color at this point. I have considered painting the "Ford" embossing in hubcaps. Something different like a lime green, etc., just to add some color. I need to take new pics since the interior is now finished and I've got my Hamb waterslide decals on the windshield!
Is the radiator spring-mounted like original? Don't forget to have some tension on the springs. That in combination with the 2nd radiator support rod should make all the difference in the world. No early Ford radiator doesn't shake a little, it is designed that way to save the Radiator tanks and core from being tweaked as the frame and suspension do their work in rough country or rough roads (potholes, separation lines, corduroy, ruts etc.).
I must have missed the HAMB waterslide decals. I have one of the original HAMB sticky's if someone wants to make a trade. I hear you on the color bit. I was doing my 32 in black and chrome, decided it needed some color and powdered the front calipers red. Then, instead of a black interior went for saddle tan. Worked ok, but a black $$ leather interior woulda been nice. Maybe next time. I painted the Ford embossment on my 31's hubcaps. One Shot Process Blue - which was a great color match for the Aegean Blue powder - and it was a pain in the backside. Doing one a day helps. Know a kid who builds models and does a good job at it? Get him to paint your caps for you. It'll be good for both of you and you may be getting a future hot rodder off to a good start....
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