1952-59 Ford Upgrades for 292

Anyone out there know of any bolt on upgrades that can improve performance in a 292? Im already putting on a 4 barrel carb. I was thinking about a cam maybe? But I have heard that a lot of other issues come along with that. Anyone out there be able to give me some advice? Would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Rocky

 

Best order a Speedway catalog they carry some Y-block goodies,but most Y-block parts are pricey sometimes double or triple parts for a 302 SBF would cost.Cam swaps in a Y-block are a pain as they have the mushroom lifters ,I ran some stout Y-blocks on dirt track in the late 60's they can take a beating.You might want to do a lot of reading on Y-blocks forever.com and checkout the cl***ifieds and tech talk there,without braking the bank I would hunt for some ECZ-G Heads ,headers,and contact GMC Bubba here on the Hamb for a distributor workover.Or you could check out www.fordsix.com and build the 223 in your latest '54, parts for those can be found as Ford used the 223 in trucks,cars and tractors for a number of years,and with dual Smitty's they sound awesome.

 

www.ford-y-block.com

 

What engine do you have? What heads are on it?

The most bang for you buck can come from the distributor. It's sometimes the most neglected part and the most misunderstood sometimes. Personnally I like the duraspark distributor and box. It gives you electronics at a reasonable price and you can get parts at any box store. If you can find a rebuilt distributor for a '64 292 (at Autozone, Advance, OReilly, etc) that has the later distributor case, the electronics from a duraspark (any later Ford) will go into it. Then have Bubba recurve and tune it for your application. You'll feel it in the seat of your pants.

You can start from there, but unless you are really familiar with the y-block, a cam can be a real pain with the engine in the car.

 

Thanks fellas. Sounds like I'm gonna be reading a lot and replacing that distributor. Might save the upgrades for the 302 that will eventually go in it. Jeff, I have decided against building that 223. Its gonna need a complete overhaul and that's not something I wanna do right now. I just wanna drive it. And I'm pretty sure the y block with my dual smithys will sounds good as well. I jjjust love the way a y block sounds. Thanks again!

 

What year Y block?? Up to 57 they had a 'loadmatic' POS dissy and the 'A' series intake manifold. Throw them out and get a 57 and up dissy from UAP or other parts store, and get the 'B' series intake. Another good site for Y blocks is "Yblocksforever.com"

 

Another easy way to gain some more performance is charge the rocker over th ethe higher ratio one .
If you change the cam you will need to change the tappets or maybe have them refaced . To change the cam you need to take the taps pout through the bottom . Then you can pull the cam out . It's not like most V8 engines where the lifters come out through the top . If you go that far you really should rebuild the engine the right way so it will last . The Isky 300 is a really nice cam with a decent lope . If you check out John Mummerts site that will help you allot . there is a lot of really good information on that sire too . It's fordy-block.com .

Jim

 

Sounds like i dont want to do the cam afterall.... Too much work for me. I just wanna drop it in this new 2 door and drive it. The guy I bought the engine from a while back said it was "rebuilt" but we know how that goes. I'm taking the intake off this week and upgrading it to a 4 barrel. I'll look into that distributor as well. I read on another thread that I should go with a 64 pickup dizzy? Any info or thoughts on that? Also, how high cfm can i run before messing up my engine? I was looking at a 600 holley. Any info or help would be awesome. Thanks guys!

 

Going to a modern centrifical/vacuum operated distributor which can be tuned and upgraded is always a good move. Just be sure to source the vacuum to the advance from ABOVE THE ****ERFLIES. Modern carbs have a dedicated port for this. DO NOT use manifold vacuum. Using straight manifold vacuum gives the vacuum advance the wrong signal at low idle and causes tuning and operational problems.

Also... A 600 cfm carburetor is too big for your engine. It's a matter of mixture velocity in the primary venturis. Large primaries cause slow air flow at low engine speeds. This causes poor mixing of the air/fuel and gives poor throttle response as well.

I'd recommend a Holley 8007 for your motor. It's a 390 cfm small throat square bore designed for 300 cid and smaller engines.

http://www.holley.com/0-8007.asp

​

It's got all the features you'd want: vacuum-operated secondaries, electric choke and dedicated distributor vacuum port. It's also got a manifold vacuum port for auto transmission vacuum source and a handy PCV port so that you can evacuate your engine properly to help keep it clean inside. It's also very adaptable to a variety of throttle linkages...and can even be installed backwards if your linkage is on the p***enger side and works just fine.

The 8007 bolts directly to aftermarket square-bore intake manifolds and can be adapted like any other Holley to non-square bore intakes. It's also power valve protected to eliminate blowing the power valve every time it backfires.

All in all it's a sweet little carb and has all the nostalgia and tune-ability of the larger dual-bowl, adjustable side-hung float, single inlet Holleys.

I love 'em. I think you will too.

 

This is the four barrel manifold you are looking for - the ECZ-9425-B..


It has the necessary mounting studs for the later four barrel carbs - people are asking unreasonable amounts of money for them now days - so do some networking with friends. Otherwise - the 9425-A that has the older smaller mounting pattern can be used with an adapter plate. They can be a lot cheaper to get your hands on.

Use an insulator to keep the heat load down on the carb - whichever you choose. They are easy to sand and file for a perfect match of throttle bores and manifold bores - this one came from Moroso - other brands and sizes are around. You just don't want any "steps" under the carb bores.



If the Holley 600 is all you can get your hands on for the money - try putting the "black" spring in the secondary vacuum housing and tune from there. Used on a smaller engine it makes the carb act more like a big two barrel - with a little extra at the top end.

 

you could bolt this with a cam and mod also
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/pts/2087383664.html

 

Ok, so i got the Holley 600 this morning. It was cheap and easy to get. Greenbird, I have the A series intake. So I need the adapter. I bought the adapter a while ago. However, when I put the adapter on it, the studs hit the bottom of the carb... How can I get around this? Will I have to get a spacer for it?

 

Even the 600 is big you can always get a kit and put some smaller jets in the front . Really a 450 to 500 would have been the best to get .

You will either have to get shorter studs , cut them shorter or get a taller spacer or add a spacer to make up the difference .
Just cut the studs shorter and clean the threads up will be the easiest thing to do .

Jim

 

John (streetdreams) suggested a 4100 series Ford 4bbl on mine, and I had an ECZ-B intake. I think the carb is around 500 cfm. It still had the tag on it, cross-ref'd the #, it came off a '63 390/406. Rebuidable 4100s are cheap on ebay, think I paid $35 plus whatever the kit cost. Runs great except I want to put a manual choke on it. Also got a C0TF distributor off ebay around $30 or so and had a Pertronix setup put in it. Am using ECZ-C heads.

 

That carb is the best carb Ford had . Came in some different sizes but a very dependable carb and they are easy to work on . Wish I had 2 small ones and 1 big one .
You need a small cfm carb , heck a nice 500 cfm 2bbl Holley would really be nice too .

****If anyone is looking for a new in the box set of chrome valve covers I have a pair . I bought them at a car show and got like $50 to $53 in them . If someone needs a new pair , they can have them for $40 plus shipping unless you can pick them up or I can hold onto them till when ever the time comes that you need them . I am always at the Ford Show in Carsile , Pa. every year . That is in early June 2011 . That will be up to you .
I also have a new set of .030 oversize 292 Silvo lit pistons w/pins in a box and I think have the rings too . Make a very fair offer or trade .
I will even trade for something I can use on a SBF or trade toward something . I always enjoy bartering !

Jim

 

I would suggest as a start to a solid Y-Block:

ECZ-B intake with spacer
4100 Ford 4 bbl
Melling SYB-2 camshaft
aftermarket pushrods
ECZ-G heads with 3 angle and hardened exh seats
later distributor with Pertronix and revised curve
higher ratio rocker arms
modify rocker ***emblies for full pressure oiling
rework and smooth oil p***ages in block and heads
modify cam thrust plate for better lubrication
convert to PCV system vs road draft tube
install cam bearings correctly
balance and blueprint
three French hens
two turtle doves...........

 

...and a patridge in a pare treeeeeeeeeEEE! I cain't spel worth a durn, but I cain sang lik a burd. Hek yea!

 

Gee Eric, I thought you'd have said to replace it with a SBC Gosh, maybe there IS hope... Just kidding of course! yeah, John went & got all technical on me , I still have to push 1 for english sometimes when it gets too tecky. But he knows that stuff, for sure.

 

There's a "B" intake on eBay right now for a bill...plus shipping. Grab it.

Item number: 310266322931

Nah, Ron, I've mellowed. Besides, I've always liked the sound of a Y-block through a pair of Smitty's. No 'nother sound quite like it. Hek yea!

 

Yes, that's a very good price anymore for an ECZ-B intake. They've really spiked in price lately.

I'm gonna have to do a little video of my '56 with the yblock running thru the dual Porters - sounds great.

 

There's a guy over on Ford Barn, got a Yblock distributor loaded with Pertronix for sale $50 - link: http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20434

 

Dragonknucks........I almost lost sight of you in all of this good advice. An insulator / isolator to keep manifold heat off the carb is worth the money. Carefully matching all of the holes and edges is worth the sweat equity.

What is your IQ when it comes to Holley carbs? Hopefully it was running on an engine in recent times - and working OK. Take a look at the driver side of the choke airhorn and tell us the list number - hopefully its an 1850-something. Then get on the Holley site and find the 1850 installation manual.

If you don't want to install a complete rebuild kit - ac***ulate a set of the "re-usable" bowl gaskets, some 56 or 58 primary jets, a 6.5 power valve and go from there. The new style of primary/secondary transfer tube seals are worth having too - those old o-ring seals were very painful.

Find the best deal you can on the '64 F-100 x 292 replacement distributor. The rebuilder Cardone makes one - but I can't remember where I saw the part number.....It will most likely be built out of a 289/302 Motorcraft base with a Y-block shaft. They have the right stuff in them to build a good hot rod dizzy - but they are tuned to a stock truck (low initial advance set-up). Several guys have complained that they come with too much endplay but that's easily fixed. The rebuilt is a good value compared with some of the old worn out stuff you'll find cheaper.

raceron - The double diaphragm dizzy has to be used with a special carb - a teapot with a special set of vacuum ports.

 

My IQ of anything Holley is a big fat goose egg. Honestly, everything you guys are talking about is confusing the hell out of me. I'm still pretty new to this game, so it'll take me a bit to learn it all. But learn, I will! I looked up the distributor today and it was under a 100. So thats not a big deal to pick up. I just dont know if I wanna do electronic ignition right now. I dont know how all of that works either.... Also, the guy I bought that intake from has the b series intakes too, I think. He is a gold mine for Y block parts. Lives maybe 15 minutes from me. I'll call tomorrow and see if he has any. Save time and money hopefully. Maybe trade the old one and some cash for the b intake.

 

Don't worry when it's time to set up the Holley come pay me a visit,you know where I get my project money from selling Carbs, so no sweat setting up a Holley for this old fart.Before you jump in head first on the distributor send GMC Bubba a pm for advice before you lay down any cash and do what He says,there are a lot of threads of praise on the HAMB for what He does and you will get a good "bang for the buck"

 

(re: raceron - The double diaphragm dizzy has to be used with a special carb - a teapot with a special set of vacuum ports.)

I missed that part - probably why he's selling it. Thx for the clarification.

ron

 

Yesterday 10:12 PM
dragonknucks

My IQ of anything Holley is a big fat goose egg. Honestly, everything you guys are talking about is confusing the hell out of me. I'm still pretty new to this game, so it'll take me a bit to learn it all. But learn, I will!

That's why we're here.

Just be sure to ask all your questions...and get answers to them...before you spend any $$$. You will get some conflicting info at first, but if you keep asking a pattern will reveal itself...along with the best advice.

The Holley is a very good place to begin your carburetor experience. They are simple and robust. Easy to understand and hard to kill.

And, you can find rebuildable core Holleys for dirt cheap. The problem is they all look alike, so you need to know what the LIST # translates to in terms of size and features. Take Jeff up on his offer...

A dizzy that's been converted to electronic operation is much simpler to set up and maintain than a points-style unit. These require straight 12-volts at all times, eliminating the need for separate START and RUN ignition circuits, ballast resistors, etc.

The downside is that they require that you carry replacement parts. They do fail...usually at the very worst moment...and while they are easy to repair, you've got to have the parts, and they can be difficult to find in some areas...like in the middle of flippin' nowhere!

Keep on monitoring the HAMB. We're here for ya'.

 

Ron, do it. A healthy Y-Block is a sure cure for SBC.

 

The best way to go fast with a Y-block is to use an FE!

But seriously though, I'd say stick with the standard ratio rockers, stick with whatever heads you've got, throw in a later dizzy and put your intake and carb on, and go cruise. Y-blocks aren't considered screamers for a reason, they simply aren't. Yes, if you've got lots of money, they can be considered quick, just like flatheads, but they'll never perform like FEs, or even the dreaded sbc.

Unless! you use a really tall gear and a t-5! A 4.26 gear makes my dads A scoot pretty well.

 

Standard 1.43 rockers unless you can get a set of 1.54 ratio. Then you get more cam without changing the cam. ECZ-B intake with spacer for sure, and a later distributor with a curve. A later set of '57 flat top exhaust manifolds, or better yet, a set of Red's or Beldon headers also help greatly.
In the day, Y-Blocks were just as or more compe***ive with SBC's. Agreed, you can get more power out of a SBC today, but consider this:
A Ford Y-Block is a much better designed and engineered engine than a SBC.
Side oiler block, forged rods, rocker shaft stabilized valvetrain, full floating pistons, Ricardo designed combustion chamber....
For cruising, durability and even the occasional fun trip down the strip, a well built Y-Block is just fine, and doesn't cost a fortune to build correctly.
FE's are fine also. A little more racing heritage, so more and better performance stuff available. I've got a built 390 in my Starliner, with 406 trpower, 427 long exhaust manifolds, 4 speed, etc, etc. So, I agree with you, CC. Not that compe***ive in the real scheme of things, but then, I don't give a ****. It's a helluva lot of fun to drive, which is why I built it.
Frankly, I'm happy to see this new trend of running anything but a SBC in your rod or custom. A whole new generation of rodders discovering 303 - 394 Olds, Buick Nailheads, Y-Blocks, FE's, 413's, Studebaker, Packard and Cadillac V8s. Inline Buick 8's.....
It's not how fast you go, It's how you go fast.
IMHO, anyway.

 

Dragonknucks - When you are ready for an ignition, send me a PM - this isn't rocket science. This diagram shows an electronic ignition that will do the job - can fit Ford dizzy's from '58-'80 something - and parts are available everywhere even on Sunday. The Ford Duraspark trigger is virtually bullet proof (MSD uses it too) - the HEI "four pin" spark controllers are available everywhere, and can deliver high performance at pretty low cost - and because the HEI controller is also a current limiter (changes "dwell"), it can use a variety of coils with no ballast resistor.