Upholstery, a beginners journy

What glue are you planning on using? Or what have others used with success? Reason I ask is because some have the tendacy to release in hot humid weather. Nothing worse than that. An old time senior s***cher told me he uses 3M super glue which I found at a parts store. My issue up here which you may not have there is a supplier that sells bulk in small quan***ies. The few suppiers we have wanted to sell me a 5 gallon can of glue so we used the 3M individual spray cans. Went thru 5 cans for a 37 Chev coupe. So far so good on the release factor.

 

I personally use weldwood hhr,spray grade.5 gallons,also available 1 gallon.Shipping is the killer,so if you can get it from atrim shop or supplier local is best.I use a cheap ch gun.used to use a 2 gallon pot when i had the shop,but we went thru about 5 gallons a week.only use spray canst to tac something temporary.spray cans of good stuff adds up in cost pretty fast,5 gallons may have been cheaper.

 

I use K-grip 202 Plus that I get from my uph supplier. Comes in gallon can and I spray from a cheap siphon gun. Works great and lasts forever. 3M spray cans, even the super get gummy later and let go on vinyl. I do use 3M #77 for light tacking and pattern making. Spray cans will kill you for cost.

 

3M 77 doesn't hold up to heat very well (i.e. for headliners, etc.). When I worked in the upholstery shop we used it for a week and had 3 seperate 50-59 chevy trucks returned because the upholstery started coming down for the headliners then later found out that this glue cannot and will not hold up to any kind of heat. (pleated headliners with foam backing).

You can use vinyl with a foam backing to glue it to whatever, but you can't glue the vinyl straight to anything or it will start bubbling (huge air pockets behind it) just fyi.

 

man, this is a great thread.. i'm glad i finally opened it. makes me want to try my hand at some interior work now.
question to Jake.. on that tucking strips, do you use any kind of glue there??

 

Like I said...I only use #77 for lightly tacking and pattern making...in other words...I wouldn't use it to hold any thing permanently.

I don't use any adhesive on the tuck strips.

Jake

 

All very good tips, Thanks for checking back in guys.

The headliner is on order, so I'm working on insulating with peal&seal and duct insulation for the roof.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=711889

I've already used something similar to peal&seal, only without the aluminum layer in my old jeepster. Stuff really sticks if you clean under it first

Upon closer inspection, it appears that there was a tack strip above the rear quarter windows, so I put some back on.

 

Simply amazing! Just the info I was looking for. Thanks for sharing.

 

Test fit the garnish moldings for the quarter and rear windows so you know where the edge ends up in conjunction with the tack strips. It would be a shame to staple up the headliner to the strip and find out the garnish doesn't cover it.

 

LOL That would be bad.
Everything is being test fitted now. With some AWESOME help from Brerhair (you did an excellent job do***enting with pictures, thanks) I've got a good understanding how the door panels mounted.
Now I just have to figure out what to make the brackets out of.

I got a good start on making the door panels. My local Car Quest will have the bent wire clips in on Monday.

 

Terrific stuff. Thanks for posting this.

 

Here's a trim panel (door) tech I did on the Suedes site a while back. It might be helpful. Also take into consideration that the carpet will go under the quarter trim panels. I usually do an interior in this order:

1. Headliner
2. Carpet
3. Side panels
4. Rear seat
5. Front seat

Here's the link.. http://www.suedescarclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=1403.0

 

Thom, is that 1/8" hardboard? Looking good.

Fantastic door panel tutorial Jake, thanks!

 

Ah, thanks Jake. I may have to trim up the bottom a bit.

Yup, 1/8"
I doubt it's waterproof, but I can put a membrane behind it


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I also only use luan,50 yearsnnever had a warp.I also use auveco 8o8 clips,they go straight in.I put an approx. sized sheet of luan on the door and mark the edge and drill all the clip holes.If you run into needing a little longer grip,auveco 1202 ,they have a finish cap that I pry off so it won't show thru.Have fun

 

The water proof panel board works pretty well in our part of the country. Yes, it is not truly water proof, but I've never had a complaint of it warping in 40 years. I always put a vapor barrier behind it. We don't have much for humidity any time of the year, which really can cause it to warp.

I wish we could get 1/8" luan here. I have checked many times over the years with the big box (and small box) suppliers and unless I order a truck load it's not available. 1/4" is available, but that's too thick for side panels.

So I use the "water proof", black on both sides, 1/8" panel board. Best I can do.

 

I couldn't find any lauan here larger than 2x2. And the PVC sheets looked way to flimsy.
I'm in CO (high desert) I hope it outlasts me


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Don't know if there's much around anymore, but I used 1/8" (or maybe a little thicker) decorative wood wall paneling (4'x8') sheets. Turned them around and put the grooves on the back side. Worked ok.

 

Hi guys. Jake, I hope you didn't think I was Dissing you.Not my intent at all!The paneling I use is available here at a small place.I used to get it at a lumber company in cal. when i had my shop there.Ask for door skins,they are used to repair house doors.Sometimes they are damaged on the nds and can't be used for the original intent,get em cheap, about 2 bucks,36x80. plenty big enough for almost any doors.I have used the waterproof board alot,I just dont like it on doors.The last sheet i got i made a glove box in my lincoln,it came apart every where it had a bend.The glove box in my old suburban i did in 85 is still good.Guess it is a sign of the times.Keep at it guys. Jack

 

Isn't 1/8 luan sold as 5MM these days and actually bit thicker than desired?
Used cheap paneling a few years ago which had a thin layer of luan on the back side
but a waxy looking fake wood which seemed like it would be ok for a vapor barrier

jjI bought some masonite looking 4x8 panels at home depot that seemed to be a bit thinner.
(cut it with a 4 inch thin off to get a smooth edge).

 

A quick note about panel clips.
Don't put them where there is a recess in the inner door, they don't reach THAT far.
Also check for inner structure, sometimes the structure and the inner door metal don't but together making the clip inoperable

On my 50 chevy, the door panel has quite bow to it, where the middle is bowed outboard (from the factory).

Besides adding a few more clips to hold the shape, is there any other tricks to form the bow?

 

Thommy,most of the cars that dip have a couple places that are cut out of the door,look like a triangle that folds out to slip into slots in the panel.those also used the screw on armrest to help.Clips usually aren't strong enough on a deep inset. I have a steamer and use it sometimes to get panels curved.Clamp or screw into place till dry.Hot water will work,and niether will ruin the panel.You guys keep asking,i think all of us like to help.

 

Thanks for the tips 56premire

BrerHair gave me this pic of hie original panels. I put the holes for the tabs in the panel, a few clips and a screw. I used your hot water sudgestion and I'll let it sit installed overnight. Hopefully it will take a good set.
Thanks again for your help!


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Thommy,i cant tell for sure but the rectangle hole about midway should be for the tab on door.Sometime they are missing or bent in,they are somtimes a bear to get into a finished panel. They can only stick out so far and not mess with the cover.Also should have mentioned thatat wood bends one way easier than the other.I have very little luck getting pictures to work on a computer,so i can't help that way.I'm kinda retired and only doing custom,hot rods now,but have used over 1000 clips this year.Good luck Jack

 

Thank you ever so much Jack. Your spot on with the tabs and holes. The water trick is working! I used a spray bottle on the panels twice and just the clips will hold the shape now. I'm off to the junk yard to help a friend, then I'll browse for some chrome trim for the panels


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Glad it's working.You'll be done in no time

 

His pics did not copy here, but check out beachbum jim's post from his thread about doing a rear seat on a '52 Chevy.

 

Thanks for the link, I've followed several of his posts (e-stalking)
I took his advice actually and made a trip to my local junk yard and scored these jems from an early 50s Chrysler for $11 Just for the SST strips, and not the plaid LOL

The "plan" is to separate the grey and green on the doors with the strips that will run in line with the handle strip. The grey will be on top, while the garnish moldings will be black like the dash.
I'm getting ahead of myself a little, but ya gota plan something right?

 

Those strips should work good.I used to look for things that add a little detail.Yor panels look good,but I cant tell if they are cut a little big.I leave about 1/8 short all around,that way the pad and cover makes it come out about right.If too long, when you open and close the door they hang up sometimes.