I've seen where many have done, or wanted to do, this particular build option. Did you cut down the frame then begin building or narrow the rear section? Reuse the transverse spring crossmember or build fresh? Transverse rear spring, parallel leaf, or coil? Transverse front spring or coil? Soon I'll be starting my build page but I thought these more general questions might be better here. Thanks!! ===== Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've got an AA frame I'm sitting on to build in the future. Front end, transverse all the way unless you're bobbing the horns and dropping into the weeds with quarter elliptics (coils would get you a RR branding I think). An aftermarket "32" front crossmember will fit and drop you down 2" (I think) below the stock AA (which dips lower than the p***enger car crossmember I think). What body are you putting on the AA frame? That will tell you a lot of what needs to happen. An A truck cab is the easiest, but any A body should bolt up at least where the cowl goes IIRC. Chenneled or highboy, etc? You could kick it up and go transverse or parallel or potentially remove leaves from the original convex leaf setup if you wanted to get creative and can get it to fit with the body. SHOW US WHAT YOU GOT!
I have to agree that whatever body you decide to out it on will determine what you do. I have an AA frame that I planned to build a flat bed truck with; which would be correct for that build. Those frames are really stout and won't need the beefing that the car frames need.
@NoSurf A coupe is on AA rails. The front crossmember from what I can tell is the same as a normal A. His got cut off before the rear kick up and a box tube kickup/ Z was welded on. He could probably shed more light on it but that's the jist
So far, I have a lot of parts. "A" cowl, back half of an "A" Phaeton, 47 Ford running gear with "A" front axle. Also have shortened "A" frame and rear crossmember (loose but good shape". Flattie and 1939 transmission. I'm working the scenario that I'm building a rod circa early 1950s. I'm thinking high boy though dropping suspension 2-3 inches might be good. No channeling. Thanks for the input. Will creat a build thread when I get started. ===== Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Which is why I'm using it instead of boxing or aftermarket. Trying to think like hotrodders in the late 40s to early 50s. ===== Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A friend of mine was building a 27 T pickup for someone years ago that had either T frame or AA frame; which was the first time I saw one used. The T was way cool and I wished that I had taken pictures of it.
I'm using a AA frame for this build. One of the things not mentioned yet and something I like is the front spring is 2" wide. That lets me run 35 up front axle. Big advantage there in my book. No I won't be boxing it but does have a full X member. That Body is channeled 6" and currently posing as this car. This ch***is started out Model A car and I installed the AA front crossmember so I could run my 39 axle in it. No Z and no kick in the back. The Wizzard
For me the frame rails is mostly what I am using. Separate them from the cross members, shorten them to length ( this gives you the option of a longer wheel base if you like) then a horizontal slice along the top flange, thin them to desired thickness and reattach the top flange. Some guys just channel the body but it is too deep a channel for me so I thin the frame rails. On my current build I have col springs for the rear and a cross leaf for the front so I would use a model A front cross member for my cross leaf and make a cross member with spring pockets for my rear suspension. If I owned a pair of Corvair rear coils I would use coils on all 4 corners but I don't so I am using what I got. If I was going to use a cross leaf in the rear and did not have a rear cross member I would use a piece of channel and make my own rear. Boxing is not normally necessary with the AA, I have seen them partially boxed or not boxed at all. Whatever you do make sure that you are properly gusseted on your motor mounts. I hate a flimsy motor mount.
I'll be at the shop tomorrow. Will take pics and start a build thread. ===== Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
REALLY GOOD LOOKING!! Thank you for the info!!! ===== Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This is great info. I'll have a build plan started shortly with all this help! ===== Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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