Using rods narrower than the main journals or stock rods?

stick with the ford rods

 

Converter slippage.

 

I used to race 300's. Use the HD steel crank and stock rods or the HD rods PackardV8 mentioned. Polish and shot peen them. Put ARP bolts in them. Not sure what's available now but there were some aftermarket rods back in the day.
What are you doing for the rest of the drive line?

 

I built a blown 250 six a few years ago - ( yes i know its a chevy) but I also played with the blown 292chevy-6.99etc center to center - use arp bolt and balanced/ peened etc. Never once had a failure. WON bowling green in 05 and a runner up in 06 ( with that same combo -n a 250 ) - I sold my spare to a guy in Denver CO , blower hat to pan- flywheel to blower belt - we changed springs to be sure - after shipping it - hes raising hell in a 55 chevy every week end on the street . I under stand your long rod thinking-But unless you are runing more than 14PSI of boost- I did a few times- and have a hell ova heavy piston- I would bet the house they will hold. Ive seen the 300 rods - bored a 300 .125 over -ran a 400 SBC piston ( it was a cheap combo - ) and it ran like a 351 . I bet the after market rods will still be cheaper in the long run-( with all the companies - eagle , etc) but its your call -
I ran a B/M 144 and 177 blowers - and turned the S--t out of them - never hurt one - Did I mention that we were fast - and this combo was pretty cheap.Good luck

 

T5, Aluminum Driveshaft, 8.8 L/S diff.

T5 will be rebuilt to handle the torque, running 2:73 in the rear with a 28" tire.

Goal with this thing is a butt load of torque building around 1500 rpms....should get good mileage and still be fun.