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Technical v8 flathead in a t

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by flatheadgary, Oct 26, 2023.

  1. flatheadgary
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,045

    flatheadgary
    Member
    from boron,ca

    i am going to build a gow job from a '23 t and a '34 v8 flathead. i also build 1/25th models of the 1-1 cars i build. i am having a hard time getting the motor to fit in the t frame. the '34 motor seems to be to big and long. i can't get a t hood on it because the motor is to tall. i even had to cut the fins on the fan blades to fit under the radiator. also when i put the hood on with the body there is a gap with the body to the hood about 3/4 inch. now i know that models don't measure quite the same as 1-1. i can't get at all the parts to build my 1-1 so i was wanting to know if anybody has done this in 1-1 and what problems they have had. i do know that a '27 body will fit better though . thanks
     
  2. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,689

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This one has pretty close dimensions to a stock T
    [​IMG]
    Outside of the carbs sticking up it could wear a stock hood that might have to be a tad longer. Note that the body isn't channeled like with a T bucket.
    34 wires to go along with the 34 flathead would work if you use axles that would work with them.
     
  3. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 4,029

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    I don't know. Maybe needs to be measured again..
    I do know that a flathead 60hp will suit your needs.
     
  4. flatheadgary
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,045

    flatheadgary
    Member
    from boron,ca

    thanks for the replies. i know this is a weird thread. i do have all the wheels and i have the complete '34 parts, motor, trans, front axle and rear end. as to the tall problem, i think what i might have to do is build a tube frame instead of the stock frame. i can then make it 26 inches wide then the motor can be lowered. i will have to wait until i can dig out all the parts and see what i got to work with.
     
  5. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 7,863

    RodStRace
    Member

    Since this isn't your first rodeo and you know how to read a tape measure, what I will mention is once you box a t frame properly, you might as well have done the tube to start.
    I know that there are chassis dimension charts out there for old Fords.
    I found this which is not as detailed as I'd like, but might get you a start.
    https://automotorpad.com/ford/111462-ford-model-t-frame-dimensions.html
     
  6. PackardV8
    Joined: Jun 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,309

    PackardV8
    Member

    It all depends on how hard one stresses the T frame. An old guy I know has a T-V8 with a five-speed he drives all over the southeast. It's fun, cool and he enjoys it within its limits.

    jack vines
     
  7. A T frame is a good bit narrower than an A frame by near 5" at the Firewall and the T body still covers the frame rails. The frame under the Purple car above is Not a T frame. Use an A frame and make the job 10 times easier and move on.
     
    Desoto291Hemi and Tim like this.
  8. flatheadgary
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,045

    flatheadgary
    Member
    from boron,ca

    you all have some good ideas. i thank you. yes i have been building T and A frames for 60 years. some street cars and some altered drag cars. i know my way around fabricating and welding as i have every tool needed. i do believe i will build me a A frame out of tubing. i only wanted to use the T frame because i had it and it would be more traditional. the A frame being wider will help with motor placement for sure. thanks
     

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