Projects Vacuum Canister or pump

Hi. Just got my 46 Chevy back from having a rebuilt 57 Chevy 235 installed and I am having a shifting problem I did not have with the original 216 engine. It has the 3 on the tree with original vacuum shift ***ist that worked well with old engine. All new vacuum lines on new engine.

What I have done with the rebuilt 235 is it is bored 0.060 with new flat top pistons, new 264 grind cam, hardened seats & new valves, springs, etc, new Clifford water cooled dual intake with 2 Webber 34-36 two barrell carbs & tube headers with dual exhaust & langdon HEI distributor. The electric chokes are working fine.

I have not found my old vacuume gauge to check but it seems I do not have as much manifold vacuum with this new set up.

Unless you can offer better advice I am considering adding a vacuum canister on the fireewall. Or would a vacuum pump be better? Or a replacement mehanical fuel pump with vacuum fittings. Somewhere I have a new mehanical fuel pump with the vacuum fittings added & I could change this out & route the line for vacuum shift there.

I figure someone here has gone thru this & can give advice on the best way to procede.

I have elect wipers so other than the vacuum ***isted shift the only other use is for vacuum advance & it is working fine with what manifold vacuum I now have.

Also did a 12 volt upgrade & the Coupe has a very old upgrade with 6 volt wipers & when I got my resistors for my 6 volt guages, radio & heater I forgot to get the one for the 6 volt wipers. Anyone have a suggestion on what size resistor would be needed for wipers?

Got to get this thing back on the road this week if possible

Thanks, Jimmie

 

A ball will only hold the available vacuum, not build on it.

It's really hard to advise without a guage reading

 

Longer duration cams are bad for lower-speed engine vacuum, I'd switch to the dual-diaphragm pump to boost vacuum.

For the wiper motor resistor, I'd try about a 3 ohm to start with, you'll need a large wire-wound ceramic type rated for at least 100 watts (two 6 ohm 50W units in parallel will work too). Mount it somewhere where it gets air circulation and won't contact anything flammable as it will get hot...

 

Thanks. I will try the dual diaphram fuel pump beause I have one & if that solves it I am ok.

I am about to order some other needed parts from Chevs of the 40's late this week anyway & noticed they have the linkage kit listed to eliminate the vacuum shift ***ist. This car is not going to be a racer & just a daily street machine & that is why I was trying to get the vacuum ***ist working again. If I remove the vacuum ***ist & install the linkage kit to byp*** it will the 3 on the tree be a smooth or difficult shifter as a daily driver?

I am going to be under the car in about a week pulling the rear end to install a new 355 ring & pinion, seals & bearings, etc anyway & to free up the stuck parking brake cables so it would be a good time to change from the vacuum ***ist if that works ok. Just never did that on old Chevy's I used to drive.

Any opinions on installing the shift link instead of going for some vacuum boost to make it work?

Thanks, Jimmie