Hey all, I'm currently looking at a '49 Plymouth Coupe and was curious of the value. Here is a list of what it is as it sits: *Mustang 2 front clip, well done, reinforced, straight and true *SBC 350 stock rebuild, Holley carb, nothing fancy but clean *Fresh rebuilt Turbo400 trans with shift kit *Fresh rebuilt non-posi Ford 9" *No rust body or frame, solid *Windshield and rear glass good, both door glass cracked *No carpet or back seat, random front seats *Runs well, tracks straight, stops (with a lot of force due to manual discs) *Traditional style visor (unsure if factory or not) *Clear title Is it worth $10k?
I would say no, not $10k. $7k, and I wouldn't think you are crazy. $5k-- you stole the thing.4 A good solid coupe body, you are looking at $2k, even as a roller, but you have to love any non-HAMB friendly items this car may already have which are not easily removed/changed.
Value is arbitrary . If its worth it to you then you pay the 10k. If your questioning it, probably not. Other hand, can you buy a project and do everything for less then 10k and do you have the time to do it? Sometimes convenience and ease is worth the extra money.
it looks nice, but you have to be a fan of that body style. after you've had your fun and you want to sell, only Mopar guys will be interested, then they will turn up their nose at the SBC. I think it should sell for 7-7.5
Not that it makes any difference, but is that really a '49? I thought in 1949 Plymouth had the newer body style with the diagnostic "rippled" bumpers. That looks pre-'49 to me. Or did Plymouth have a "split" model year like 1954 Chevy pickups? I mention this in regards to possible title problems.
Probably not 10K (to me). It could actually be a nice car if restored externally.......by that I don't mean a real restoration, but more about not changing the car externally other than some better wheels and tires and dual exhausts. Last night on Iron Resurrection a guy had an early 50s Plymouth (?) wagon that was original with some prime spots and patina. I believe it was the original paint. The hood had come open and ruined itself. So they put another hood on it and matched the paint. The guy had a V8 in it (Hemi or LS or ?) but the interior had a console and some later seats incorporated and it looked really decent..........no big time show interior, just matching upholstery. Super nice driver that the guy enjoyed a lot. I'd look into maybe building something along that line and maybe $7500 if there really isn't hidden rust. Put a mopar engine in it (and I'm a Chevy guy), maybe even one with more modern components and drive it forever.
Yeah, best be sure of the year as it 'appears' to be a 48. Do some research. Value? For die-hards like me I'd start subtracting for the things I don't like/want and see where it goes. But, 10K, no way IMHO. $4-5k gives you room to clean it up. Any additional photos?
IMHO..... $10K might be a little high, but can you bring a $3-4K 'starting point' to that level for that kind of money (with work done to your satisfaction)? Can you get a hulk to that point with your current skill level? Do you want to spend XXX hours and X years bring a hulk to this point? Do you prefer building vs. driving (time element here) ? That body style Plymouth has a good following, so I wouldn't worry about being able to sell it in the future, but if that's a major concern for you, then maybe you need to look for a F&#d, since that's all some people can see...... If it hits your hot button, go for it.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I am not looking for something that is a long term crazy expensive project. Just something that I can daily / weekly drive during the week and not be too concerned about. This in my idea what I ultimately want it to look like:
Yeah, 49 is split year. I'd say as others have that with the SBC it's going to have less appeal, but provided it does run and drive well, 10k is top of the market with an interior, more realistic at 7.5k as said. If you are buying, I'd talk it down with the lack of anything except the chassis finished, meaning it's got a lot to go. The visor was a popular aftermarket add-on, not stock, IFAIK. The front is as low as it's ever going to be, but you could lower the back to get the stance of the other posted. As a daily, I'd want a bit more ground clearance anyway, especially with the unmentionable crossmember. Check the frame splice carefully, those don't take a II on the OE frame. Also check carefully for rust. They tend to go in the edges of the floors, rockers, back of trunk and the area where the front tires kick up muck inside the front fenders. It's most often on the right side due to being down in the curb. Check the trim on the rockers carefully. The fasteners and trim take a beating and are often replaced with 'whatever'. Also, what was done with the wiring? That can add a lot of hours and dollars to bring up to 'daily' levels.
A lot of work has been done to the car for $10K, but this car with nice paint and interior, all finished up nice, probably wouldn't bring more than $20K, and you couldn't get it there for that price. I agree with others saying 6-7K is probably more realistic.
would cost 30K to get it where it is from scratch....10K is a great deal....I always negotiate....ask nicely if there's a little wiggle room....
https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/las-vegas-1940-plymouth-roadking/7769407287.html Not the same body, 4 door, not running, but shows what happens when the car is unfinished and has a SBC.
At least it’s not a four door. You likely couldn’t do the work for the asking price at a shop in my area. It will always be a plymouth, if that is what you are after, maybe go for it, you won’t regret rust free.
Well, looks like you all were advising around the $7k range. I didn't get the guy down that cheap, but got it down $1,500 under the asking price and pretty happy with what I got for what I paid for it. Now, I'd like to start a "build" thread on it, to track progress .... what section should I start that under?
Congrats! Since this is what your hoped for result is, I'd say Customs is where to put the build thread.
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