Technical Valve guides falling?

I've never seen this before. Although, most of my experience in engine building comes from diesels. Is this just a case of needing new guides installed?
Heads are 67 power packs 327 sbc.
Should I be concerned? There is one on each head.


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Concerned yes , heads are junk unless you find a good machine shop to measure what’s been stuffed up there. I have Seen one or two come out resulting in a dropped valve.

 

It's going on a perfect crate smallblock. These were supposed to make it look legitimate vintage and raise my c/r a bit.
I think I might need to use the stupid late model heads for now, and change them later when I find a good set. Not sure what machining would take.

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Also found 2 helicoils in the exhaust bolt holes. So dissapointing because I jumped the gun and pulled the stock heads already.

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Helicoils if done right should be ok but those guides might cost $$$ to get right.

 

Got a good local machine shop?

 

Valve guides shouldn't move. Somebody did some sub-par machine work. Not a tight enough fit. All the guides should be replaced to ensure proper fit.

 

did the guides move or were they put in too far?

 

Any decent engine rebuilder can fix that. That is usually an add-on service for a standard ala-carte engine rebuild.

 

I have a pretty good machine shop here. I'll ask him what it costs.
Just disheartening to see.
Thanks fellas.

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Not sure. I can't get tem to move now.

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Did the engine ever run bad or have a miss?

 

Does anyone think that a new set could be knurled to increase interference?

 

Not that I recall. Ran pretty strong. They were on a 305 with a single plane manifold. I'm guessing the guy I bought the car from revved the piss out of it. But it ran well I had that motor in it.

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What's the other end in the port look like?. Both look to be intakes. Did they have a PC style seal? I see they've knurled. If you want to use them, fix them. A reputable shop should have less than 2 hours in them repaired for you to ***emble.
Not required but I think I see where the valve springs may have been in direct contact with the head. I prefer a shim to take the beating even on a street head.

 

Whoever installed the guides either reamed the hole too big or the guide ID was too tight, causing it to seize to the valve stem. Either one can cause it to move like that. Too little clearance between the top of the guide and the bottom of the retainer can also cause them to be hammered down but not usually that far.

The specialty companies used to make guides with oversize OD to fix stuff like this. A lot of guys in the business used to use them regularly when replacing previously replaced press-in guide. They would ream the hole out a couple of thou for the oversize replacements.

 

The guides can be replaced and it shouldn't cost much. Remanning stock SBC heads ain't rocket science, but whoever built those didn't know diddly.

A pair of those heads, cleaned, milled, with all new springs, valves and hard exhaust seats, should be less than $500. We do them all the time.

jack vines

 

I'll snap a couple more pics when I get home.

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It had bronze shims under each spring.
I also noticed that not all the spring covers are the same. Not sure that matters.

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Update: machine shop said no big deal.
Dropping em off next week for $96!

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Since I'm going to the machine shop anyway, I'm considering threaded rocker studs.
I don't really think I need them, since my springs are stock, and I don't plan to scream this engine.
But..................... What do you guys think?

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The first time I looked at the photos of your heads I thought at least some of the studs were from Dorman Products. Dorman sold ( still sells?) black oxided 7/16-14 x 3/8-24 studs, but I don’t remember the part number. Mr. Gasket sold the same studs too, they just packaged and marketed them for Chevy head use.
A Rockwell test at work showed the black oxide studs were comparable to grade 8, there is an identical plain steel stud that is dead soft.
See the shoulder above the 7/16 thread? That is what made me think there are some screw in studs there already.

 

I'll be a monkeys uncle! I think you're right. The stock heads definitely look different.

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These are 461 heads, too. So they have the doubleD pushrod holes. No need for guideplates.
They also had long slot rockers on them!
I lucked out, since I pulled them off a 305 engine.

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Quick update. I dropped them off today at the machine shop and opted for tanking, magging, sufacing, valve job, and guides for about $275.
Peace of mind.

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