Technical Valve lash adjustment for newbies

Hey guys I’m a total newbie that’s never adjusted valves on a Chevy before. I’ve got a ‘63 impala w/327 Eng. So my questions are how do you know if the valves need to be adjusted? What’s the difference between a valve lash adjustment and just a valve adjustment? Is it the same outcome when they are adjusted while running or cold?
Thanks

 

One way to see if the valve train is in good shape is to put a vacuum gauge on a vacuum port. If it's nice and steady, the valves probably aren't leaking, but if it's bouncing around you may have one hanging up or bent or something.

 

Eth -

FIRST..you need to know if you have a hydraulic lifter****embly, or a solid lifter****embly.
More probably a hydraulic lifter****embly...but...you need to verify.

If you have a hydraulic lifter cam/assembly, you can look up in Google to find the
Yes, hydraulic lifters are always set hot and engine running (except for fresh-new).

If you have a solid lifter cam/assembly, you need to find out WHAT, the cam number is so you can be sure to adjust the lash to the correct value.
No, not...running. Cold, and carefully one at a time. Also explained online.

And yes, of course..."valve adjustment" - "valve lash adjustment", is the same thing.

Mike

 

I forgot to mention that this is for a stock 1963 Impala 327 V8.

 

First, hyd. as mentioned is best done when running at operating temps IF it's already a runner.
Make sure you have a way to shut it off quickly, and are able to put out a fire if necessary. Then grab a socket and a wobble extension if you have one. It helps! Then follow the instructions online. I prefer to have some sacrificial cardboard to keep as much oil off the exhaust as possible, but whatever works for you.
Did a quick search and watched a bit of this one. Seems to cover it.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_hY2M4oZc8

 

Are the lifters making any ticking or clatter noise? If the engine is quiet, no worries. If they are making noise, make sure you have good oil pressure first, with a mechanical gauge of good quality. If an engine with higher mileage, at least 10-15 psi at idle, and say 35psi at about 2500 rpm .

 

I'll second the suggestion that you just listen for ticking sounds up top...if you don't hear any, then don't mess with the valve adjustment.

 

Yeah there was a tick in one or two of the valves. I did an oil change and went with Lucas classic car oil and now the ticking sound pretty much went away.

 

If you decided to check into it, make sure to get some new valve cover gaskets first. And use a piece of hose (heater hose or garden hose or similar, about 3 feet long) as a stethoscope to locate where the sound is coming from. Don't do any adjusting until you're sure you know what you're doing...just look for play or worn parts.

 

Valve lash is the initial setting when you’re building an engine. Valve adjustment is usually done while the engine is running. Back em off till they click and then back in till they stop clicking finishing with a quarter turn. Simple as all that. My advice is to buy a google manual and follow all instructions step by step

 

That is if they’re not mechanical lifters of course

 

Setting valves is not mysterious, but setting them too tight can result in burnt valves from not fully seating.
I always set mine with the engine off, but after I've warmed it up. Hydraulic lifter lash can be set with different preloads depending on the use of the engine. Guys who like to run them hard use 1/4 turn after zero lash. Everyday driving is usually 1/2 turn preload, and granny cars might use 3/4 turn preload. Some cam makers recommend a full turn or even 1.5 turns, but that's always been too tight in my experience.
To set valves I use a hand held start switch to bump the engine. I set them one cylinder at a time. Crank the engine until the exhaust rocker begins to move, and then adjust the intake lash. Then bump it until the intake rocker begins to move down and set the exhaust lash.
To start with I loosen the rocker until it has play, then adjust to zero play. Add 1/4-1/2 turn, and then move to the next rocker. Repeat until you have each pair of valves set, and reinstall the valve covers.
There are instructions that tell you when one cylinder is at TDC then you can do another, but I prefer my slower method. I also hate the mess of adjusting when the engine is running, and it's totally unnecessary to do.

 

One you are setting valve stem clearance the other lifter preload

 

if the oil change quited the valve train down....put some miles on it and if stays the same or gets better.... you can probably guess you had a lifter(s) that just needed quality, fresh oil and keep up regular oil and filter changes