Ok so just curious here , what’s the best option for completely new valvetrain for a flathead ford v8 . There are a few vendors on eBay and there is speedway motors as well . Looks to me after research that really not much differs . I’m looking to go maybe a 3/4 cam regrind , 2x2 or 1x4 carb and possibly a set of aluminum heads . Thanks everyone .
Zephyr valve springs work just as well as the higher priced Isky valve springs on a street flathead. The bulk of adjustable lifters are Chinese made. I presume that Isky lifters are better made than the Speedway Chinese jobs. Run the entire late model(49-53) guides,retainers,etc.Stock valves on a Flathead are 1.5 versus “hot rod” 1.6(.060over stock).The Edelbrock slingshot is a proven performer running two carb(I don’t like progressive linkage—run the 2 carbs together equally).Spend some time on enlarging the intake ports(use big port gasket as template on intake manifold too) and more time on enlarging the exhaust. Keep the bore smaller as necessary(big bore gets rid of material and CAN ADD to the additional heat.Spend extra time cleaning out the pan rails that usually have left over sand even after hot tanking. Balancing is a proven addition ona flathead. Speak from lots of experience;camshaft stay around or below 350 lift for decent performance. Flatheads Forever!!
Thanks for the info , I wanna do as much to the block as I can before I send it away . Cause once it’s back hate to send metal filings through everything . I’m going to use the stock pistons/bore . Camshaft is going to be ground by Holman-Moody in Charlotte (if they still do it ) . Question , how much would it change things if I run iron heads ? The block was electrosis dipped by a guy in Cincinatti so it’s nice and clean . He does good work if anyone needs such work .
Would like to know who cleaned your block, the approximate cost and was it dirty/greasy when you brought it to him?
Let's get to a little more basic knowledge. Flatheads originally came with two types of valve trains. The pre-49 engines came with split (two piece) guides, while that later (8BA) series came with solid (one piece) guides. The consensus these days is that the one piece guides are superior and should be used in all performance flatheads. This shouldn't be a problem, as just about all basic flathead valve guides, etc available these days are one piece. even if you have a good set of split guides from a pre-48 engine, you should consider getting all new parts with the one piece guides. I agree with the above about the varying quality of adjustable lifters these days, and would suggest looking into using non-adjustable stock lifers. While this is more work, they are much lighter, won't go "flat", and never go out of adjustment. The one problem is that they may be too short to use with re-ground cams. The solution to this is to use Chevrolet valves, which are slightly longer to make up the difference. I was able to source NOS Ford lifters from South Side Obsolete recently. In most applications, I would suggest using the Isky 185G valve springs. They've be around a long time and are a proven quantity. Original Zephyr springs are scarcer that hen's teeth in the aftermarket, and I would be suspect of any new or replacement springs being offered as to quality. You have not given us enough information about what the engine is going in to suggest a specific grind. We need to know ar type, weight, and intended use to allow us to zero in an a specific grind. For general use, I have heard good things about the L-100 and various mid-range Isky grinds (Max-1, 1007; stay away from Isky's "mild" grinds).
It was hot tanked and magnafluxed before I took it there . So it was clean and bare block , cost was 100$
That would be a real benefit for the hobby if they did. I always like to double check information like this.
I'd take a closer look at the 77B, you may want to go with something a little "hotter". Even with a 59A, I'd go with the one piece lifters over the split lifters and "mushroom" valves.
I got to know Mike and Mike at H&H during my flathead build and spent a few dollars with them. Chevy Isky 1.6" intake and exhaust valves, Isky springs, Isky 400 Jr cam, Isky lifters, Navarro blower heads, Navarro 471 and intake, .125 overbore, Ross pistons 8.5:1, CNC mains, ported and modified 8BA as per Joe Abbin in his book (great resource). It's a runner.
I don't mean to sound like a naysayer, but I think you will be surprised that there could still be crud in the water passages like mentioned above. It's possible you got lucky, but take a high powered flashlight and look into the water passage holes on the deck of the block. If you don't see the rounds of the bores and nice curves blending in to them at the bottom, that is caked/baked on crud that needs to be removed. Long, thin screw drivers, frayed cable chucked into a drill, etc is the only way to remove it. Without getting it all out, you could have over heating issues. Regarding cam, I would not use the 77B. It's basically a stock cam. Look at the Tilden Technologies site. They have excellent cam info. For a stock bore, I would look to an improved Merc. cam. Some guys are grinding them. There is an outfit in CA that does this grind. I'll post their contact info later after I get into the garage. You can use iron heads, you will be limited to camshaft choice due to the low lift capacity of the iron heads. Since your block was already cleaned, this leaves out doing any port clean up or drilling holes to retain the adjustable lifters unless you want to get it cleaned again. Generally this work is done once the block is known to be good, but before the finally cleaning.
Actually, he can use iron (stock) heads with just about any cam out there; it just depends on how good he is with a die grinder. I also like Merc cams in heavy cars (but he still hasn't said what it is).
Going by the question, I didn't want to get into enlarging the pocket for the valves, but you are correct.
Actually,according to Joe Abbin(flathead guru from Albuquerque/has flow bench and dyno and knows how to use them) there is only 3-5 hp difference from the best flowing heads he has tested and Henry cast iron stockers(does mild touch up to cast iron). However, finned aluminum heads look better,are lighter,and in some cases hold a bit more water to aid in cooling; but on the flip side if using aluminum heads there is a phenomenon known as electrolysis of aluminum where over a period of time, the aluminum gets “enlarged and eaten away”/to prevent this go to your local BOAT shop and purchase a sacrificial anode and drop it in your water supply/retrieve it once or twice a year and scrape the “barnacles” off of the anode and re-insert back in2 the water supply/also distilled water is better than tap water. Joe’s best motor made 335 hp with the use of a supercharger(blower) and used HENRY FORD CAST IRON HEADS.Flatheads Forever!!
If you are going to use a sacrificial anode to protect your cooling system (which is a good idea BTW), make sure you do it the most EFFICIENT way. First, DO NOT go to your "local BOAT shop and purchase a sacrificial anode and drop it in your water supply". If you do that, you will most likely get a zinc anode, which is much less effective in protecting your aluminum heads. Instead, go to Amazon and purchase a magnesium anode which is a much better choice. If you can read a "Galvanic Table", the reason for this should be obvious. Also, just dropping it into your cooling system won't do a lot of good. The damage to the heads is a result of electrolysis where your engine acts like a giant, weak battery in which the anode (the heads) is eroded. The whole idea of a sacrificial anode is to provide something more active for the "battery" to erode. If you just "drop it in" it is not connected to this battery circuit and won't do a bit of good. Sure, there will be some electrical contact from the anode just lying on the bottom of the radiator tank. What little electrical contact there may be initially, will rapidly deteriorate while the anode does it's job. Also, the advice to "retrieve it once or twice a year and scrape the “barnacles” off of the anode and re-insert back in2 the water supply" goes against the whole concept of sacrificial anodes. The whole idea is for the anode to give up it's mass instead of your aluminum heads. They don't pick up anything (certainly no "barnacles"), so there is nothing to scrape off. To see more detail on the proper use of sacrificial anodes, check this thread : https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301796&highlight=anode. For those unfamiliar with them, here is a copy of the Galvanic Table. Probably the most direct way to understand it is to compare the potential voltage for zinc (-1.1) and graphite/carbon (+.4). Zinc and carbon produce a voltage potential of 1.5 volts; sound familiar? HINT : Think "D" cell battery. Any time you have two dissimilar metals in an electrolyte (the coolant), it makes a big (though weak) battery.
Be careful when you are porting the block. Make sure if you remove any casting flash that the block is still sealed.
I’m going to try some frayed cable work , even if I don’t see much . I want to take my time and do it as best as I can , as I’m not on any timeline ! Thank you
Because of the known issues with the Chineseium lifters, I went USA made ones by Johnson. Were pricey, but went with the peace of mind route for my C59A build. Just too much at stake to just save a couple hundred. https://johnsonlifters.com/
Uh, Johnson Lifters only make roller lifters now... I believe you are thinking of Hylift-Johnson. https://toplineauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Lifter-Application-Catalog.pdf
Gary from Long Island @GOSFAST was also high on these guys. However, he has since passed away, and the catalog on the website you reference in 2016-2017. I have had no occasion to use these guys, since I am partial to NOS Ford (8BA) lifters. Are you sure they are still around and offering these lifters? I'm getting some "bad vibes".
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